Castrol EDGE 8 X better Wear Protection than Mobil

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: buster
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Originally Posted By: Brett Miller
For the same money, I'll take Amsoil every time.


+1

+2. Made in the USA.

+3 Me too.

 

[rg200amp]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: buster
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Originally Posted By: Brett Miller
For the same money, I'll take Amsoil every time.


+1

+2. Made in the USA.

+3 Me too.




I will wait to see. Don't want to put all my chips in unless I know what everyone has.

Since I like trying new things, I will test it and see for my self.
A forum member, postjeeprcr, is sending me a oil kit so we will have a 5w30 VOA within the month. I will get a UOA kit so we will have that with in 5 months.

 

[buster]

It's important to keep in mind that one test does not make an oil superior. I'd be willing to bet Mobil 1 beats Edge in oxidation and deposit resistance.

Mobil is just going to have to get more aggressive with their marketing.

 

[demarpaint]

The good news for me is my next OC for my Jeep is this June. By that time I will have plenty of time to decide what I want to use in it.

 

[buster]

I like how Amsoil does product comparisons. You can see from their white papers that no oil is superior in all categories. They tally up all the performance areas to rank their oils.

 

[emaax]

hi guys...

i am using edge sport and had a litre 1L of edge as sample... 23 euro/Litre LOL thats ... 30 USD per 1L bottle lol
and the oil used before was M1 0W40

so M1 is still best oil for brake-ins... aka factory fill

if your have a bit of sense you will never used edges in you brand new engine.... lol the M1 allows gringing of the edges of the cilinder walls.. and piston rings settle perfectly
with castrol would not happen because no significant wear would occur

so.. that... 8x better is felt even by touching the oils... lol
running in the engine with it it even obvious
i tested the 3 here... in a "home" lab LOL...
so... from what i investigated and tested...

Edge(=GC maybe lilte additives differ) 0W30 -» (4times better than) Edge Sport 0W40 -» (4times better than) M1 0W40 "protection formula" lol


M1 is best for engines like the BMW M54 2.5 L not the 3.0 and 3.2 even less... the 2.5 has a 75 mm stroke... man with that stroke so little one doesn even need oil!!

same does not aply to engines with stroke biger than 85 mm

thats only a example to what kind of engine M1 is optimal...
and it is a hiper clean oil... so.. good for high mileage

i say this... as far it goes to nW40 nW30 aplications

and amsoil... here in europe we have also BP and Cepsa oils
those are also the best around here.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: emaax

so M1 is still best oil for brake-ins... aka factory fill

if your have a bit of sense you will never used edges in you brand new engine....

Edge(=GC maybe lilte additives differ)

GC was a factory fill on many VW/Audi engines not that long ago.

 

[emaax]

i guess
VW and Audi know what they are doing...

that are very advanced and.. maybe thats why you pay them well... one pays for the brake in too.. i supose

and VW engines have perfect lubrication.. that i noticed very recently
my experience goes as far as the D16 honda engine
the one that is not "allowed" 9000 rpm... as the B16 or B18 are.
it has 90mm stroke... some of the longest rods you can find...
so its a sensitive aplication... that gives me ... consistent feed back.

 

[rg200amp]

Originally Posted By: emaax
hi guys...
so M1 is still best oil for brake-ins... aka factory fill

if your have a bit of sense you will never used edges in you brand new engine.... lol the M1 allows gringing of the edges of the cilinder walls.. and piston rings settle perfectly
with castrol would not happen because no significant wear would occur

so.. that... 8x better is felt even by touching the oils...


I gotta kick out of all this!

 

[zoomzoom]

Oversquare

A piston engine is oversquare or shortstroke if its cylinders have a greater bore (width, diameter) than stroke (length of piston travel). This is generally considered to be a positive trait, since (all things equal) a shorter stroke results in less friction and less stress on the crankshaft. An oversquare engine is generally more reliable, wears less, and can be run at a higher speed. In oversquare engines power low-speed torque tends to be lower since torque is relative to crank throw (distance from the crank center to the piston pin center) as well as the lowering pressure of the combustion gases as the piston descends. Engines can be modified by being "de-stroked", shortening the stroke to increase maximum rpms and top-end horsepower, at the expense of low-end torque.

Oversquare engines tend to be lighter and shorter than similar undersquare engines along the direction of piston travel, but they are wider in directions perpendicular to piston travel. As the length is not a large problem, these engine types are highly favored by many manufacturers because of their power and compact size.

Some Formula One engines have a bore to stroke ratio of approximately 2.5:1 and are capable of revving to 19,000 rpm.

Undersquare

A piston engine is undersquare or longstroke if its cylinders have a smaller bore (width, diameter) than stroke (length of piston travel). This can be a negative trait, since a longer stroke usually results in greater friction, more stress on the crankshaft, and a smaller bore requires smaller valves which restrict gaseous exchange. An undersquare engine usually has a lower redline than an oversquare one, but it generates more low-end torque. Engines can be modified with a "stroker" crankshaft, which increases an engines stroke from stock, increasing torque.

Undersquare engines typically are, proportionally, shorter in length, heavier, and taller than equivalent oversquare ones, which is one of the reasons why this type of engine is not generally used.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: zoomzoom
Oversquare

A piston engine is oversquare or shortstroke if its cylinders have a greater bore (width, diameter) than stroke (length of piston travel). This is generally considered to be a positive trait, since (all things equal) a shorter stroke results in less friction and less stress on the crankshaft. An oversquare engine is generally more reliable, wears less, and can be run at a higher speed. In oversquare engines power low-speed torque tends to be lower since torque is relative to crank throw (distance from the crank center to the piston pin center) as well as the lowering pressure of the combustion gases as the piston descends. Engines can be modified by being "de-stroked", shortening the stroke to increase maximum rpms and top-end horsepower, at the expense of low-end torque.

Oversquare engines tend to be lighter and shorter than similar undersquare engines along the direction of piston travel, but they are wider in directions perpendicular to piston travel. As the length is not a large problem, these engine types are highly favored by many manufacturers because of their power and compact size.

Some Formula One engines have a bore to stroke ratio of approximately 2.5:1 and are capable of revving to 19,000 rpm.

Undersquare

A piston engine is undersquare or longstroke if its cylinders have a smaller bore (width, diameter) than stroke (length of piston travel). This can be a negative trait, since a longer stroke usually results in greater friction, more stress on the crankshaft, and a smaller bore requires smaller valves which restrict gaseous exchange. An undersquare engine usually has a lower redline than an oversquare one, but it generates more low-end torque. Engines can be modified with a "stroker" crankshaft, which increases an engines stroke from stock, increasing torque.

Undersquare engines typically are, proportionally, shorter in length, heavier, and taller than equivalent oversquare ones, which is one of the reasons why this type of engine is not generally used.


Ford 302. 4" bore, 3" stroke.

EXTREMELY durable little engine.......

 

[Doug Hillary]

Hi,

I Posted this in the Euro lubricanst section - perhaps it is of interest here too

"In the current Porsche Approval's List the following five Castrol 0W-40 lubricants may be of interest;

1 - Formula RS Power and Protection (WW) Current until 21/01/09
2 - Edge Sport (WW) Current until 21/07/08
3 - Edge (WW) Current until 21/01/09
4 - Formula RS Motorsport (Europe) Current until 14/09/08

WW = World Wide availability

The above lubricants may therefore now be "obsolete" ex the Porsche List

5 - SLX Professional (WW) Current until 09/05/09

As a matter of interest only one Castrol 5W-40 has currency now;

Edge 5W-40 (WW except America)

All of the other seven 5W-40 lubricants Listed no longer have currency including - GTD Direct Injection

All of Porsche's engines are now DI as of MY08 & MY09

Porsche's total Ownership of VW-Audi will no doubt bring some rationalisation of their suppliers such as Oil Companies in the future - currently Castrol (VW-Audi) and Porsche (Mobil)"

I hope it is of interest

 

[rg200amp]

Ok folks. I put 5w30 Edge in today.
I needed a oil change and Redline is getting harder to get near me and I wanted to go back to a wide-spread product.

I was going to go back to tried and true PP. With all this Edge stuff going on I figured I would try it. I want info like UOAs and VOAs on it, so I guess I will do them for a change. I am not really expecting anything with this oil. The price, 7.99, is a bit more than the 6.99 for PP. So we will see.

I notice nothing different about how the engine runs (It runs great like it allways does

). I am not 8x faster

Once I get the VOA I will be sure to post it.

 

[Jason2007]

I saw it today at Walmart in the 5qt jugs only. They had both 5w30 and 10w30 for $34.00

 

[CB900F2]

Do we know what base stock Edge is using?

 

[aquariuscsm]

Originally Posted By: CB900F2
Do we know what base stock Edge is using?


Grp III with a dash of pao is what I gather from reading their website.

 

[unDummy]

I didn't care about whether Synpower provided 4x better protection or not. I stocked up on the buy 1 get 1 free, with rebate, and free oil filter. My last 2 valvoline synthetic oil changes were ~$10.

Mobil1 is still the bottle I grab at the wholesale clubs and wallyworld. When those 5-quart jugs are priced right, how can you go wrong?

Concerning Syntec, we already saw how good the 5w40 and GC 0w30 are. Hopefully the Edge is a chip off that block. If Edge comes out in 0w20 and 5w20, they'll definitely chisel sales from M1. What other "0w20" can you find at the local store?

Problem with the Edge for me is price. $34 for a jug vs $20-25 for the other brands? Anyone look at the economy lately? Bad timing Castrol!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Another question I have is 'repeatability'. Run the sequence test a dozen times. Will there be times when an oil beats another oil that beat it earlier? Comparing results in a pass/fail test really all that fair?

Hows does Castrol create its time:wear graph? Does the engine get disassembled non-stop throughout the test or just in the end for UOAs and measurements? And, what data are they comparing? Copper or iron UOA measured wear? Or pre/post lobe/bearing/surface wear? Overall average or just our best wear point vs your worst wear point? Ad-budgets rarely need to define themselves. Our lowest measurement wear point is better then your worst wear measurement point!!!!!!!!!

Marketing aside, probably a great oil but not in the weights I need. And its priced where I would rather order a few cases of Amsoil(or any other mail order boutique synthetic).

Bring out the Edge 0w20, 5w20, 0w30, 0w40, 5w40....price it accordingly, and Mobil1 sales will slide.

I think Schaeffers proved that a slug of PAO mixed with high group mineral oils can performed superbly. Take a group III Syntec, add a slug of PAO, and call it Edge.

I guess if Castrol marketed Edge another way, they might lose some sales. "EDGE with 8x the wear protection of Syntec".....that wouldn't go over well with the Syntec fan base.

And, no, I didn't read thru 30 pages of this thread.

 

[Brian Barnhart]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Ford 302. 4" bore, 3" stroke.

EXTREMELY durable little engine.......

Interestingly, the stroke of 4” bore, 8 cylinder engines (which would include the 302 Ford and the earlier chevy small blocks) can be closely approximated by dividing the cubic inch displacement by 100.

 

[buster]

Quote:
Another question I have is 'repeatability'. Run the sequence test a dozen times. Will there be times when an oil beats another oil that beat it earlier? Comparing results in a pass/fail test really all that fair?

Hows does Castrol create its time:wear graph? Does the engine get disassembled non-stop throughout the test or just in the end for UOAs and measurements? And, what data are they comparing? Copper or iron UOA measured wear? Or pre/post lobe/bearing/surface wear? Overall average or just our best wear point vs your worst wear point? Ad-budgets rarely need to define themselves. Our lowest measurement wear point is better then your worst wear measurement point!!!!!!!!!

Marketing aside, probably a great oil but not in the weights I need. And its priced where I would rather order a few cases of Amsoil(or any other mail order boutique synthetic).

Bring out the Edge 0w20, 5w20, 0w30, 0w40, 5w40....price it accordingly, and Mobil1 sales will slide.


Yes, they monitor Fe and Cu wear via oil analysis. This is how they track wear vs time.

On price, people often complain about the cost of high end synthetics but if you take advantage of the extended drain intervals, it becomes more cost effective. Amsoil is also a full PAO based oil so cost will be higher. Being Edge is using some PAO, the price is a bit higher than their Syntec. Edge also has a better additive package. You get what you pay for..

 

[aquariuscsm]

Originally Posted By: unDummy
Problem with the Edge for me is price. $34 for a jug vs $20-25 for the other brands? Anyone look at the economy lately? Bad timing Castrol!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


^^2nd. I was at Walmart last night and that [censored] was almost $40! If I`m going to pay a full synth price,I want a full synth,not a synth blend. Amsoil/RL/RP would be a better way to go imo for the $. Full synth instead of a grp III/IV blend.