Castrol 5W-50 Syntec 'classic car' for BMW bikes?

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ammolab

ammolab

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Seems like this would be a great oil for BMW bikes (dry clutch). Touted as ZINC rich and a good viscosity for cold starts and HOT HARD running (if it shear stable!), so I may give it a try in one of my BMW bikes next change. I ride all year temps from 40F to 110F. What do you think? I am running M1 TDT 5W-40 in the R1200R and Valvoline Dino VR1 20W-50 in the K75C right now. _________________________ 2009 Honda CR-V 2002 BMW M Coupe 2011 BMW R1200R 1986 BMW K75C 1972 BMW R60/6 2005 Kaw Ninja 250
 
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A BMW engine costs <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="color: #FF0000">SO</span></span> much to repair that I'd stick with a motorcycle specific oil for it. There will be a few other oils that might work very well, but guessing might get expensive.
 
if i was that worried about my bmw motor i would run Maxima 4Extra 15w50 and my uoa showed it having 2448 zinc. especially in some place like Katy. steve
 
I'm guessing your 2011 bike, like mine has a catalytic converter. IIRC one of the reasons that zinc loaded oils are called "classic car" oils is that classic cars have not catalysts to get "poisoned" by the zinc. Hopefully somebody more knowledgeable will weigh in here, but my guess is that would be a concern. Might be a good choice for your older bikes though. Especially since your 2011 is still in warranty and you'll need to prove alignment with the specs. I used Rotella 15w-40 because I believed I could make a very good argument that it met the spec for my bike which was: - JASO MA - 10w-40 or 15w-50.
 
Jim: I don't see any "spec" in my 2011 BMW manual that would eliminate any oil on the basis of "zinc". "JASO MA" is not a concern on the Air or Air/oil cooled BMWs as far as I know. I think it has some viscosity recomendations and "SJ" Oil or better. I will check tonight when I get home. I wonder if I really care about the "cat". My bike is N Mexico plated as I am moving there next year...no inspection or emission testing. Would I know if it was harmed by a high zinc oil?
 
Originally Posted By: Ken2
A BMW engine costs SO much to repair that I'd stick with a motorcycle specific oil for it. There will be a few other oils that might work very well, but guessing might get expensive.
I don't get the logic here..... My BMW 2000 M Coupe has a VERY EXPENSIVE engine! Would you suggest I run a Motorcycle Specific Oil in it as well? My BMW K75C Motorcycle engine is as much like a car engine as my left eye is like my right eye. I have been riding BMW Bikes since 1972 and I don't think I have ever bought a single bottle of motorcycle specific oil.
 
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This oil may have friction modifyers in it (like moly) that may cause a bike problems....I dunno, just tossing it out there....
 
Originally Posted By: ammolab
Originally Posted By: Ken2
A BMW engine costs SO much to repair that I'd stick with a motorcycle specific oil for it. There will be a few other oils that might work very well, but guessing might get expensive.
I don't get the logic here..... My BMW 2000 M Coupe has a VERY EXPENSIVE engine! Would you suggest I run a Motorcycle Specific Oil in it as well?
Sorry for the Poor example! The M Coupe requires ONE Specific oil only (Castrol TWS).
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
This oil may have friction modifyers in it (like moly) that may cause a bike problems....I dunno, just tossing it out there....
That is a "Wet Clutch" issue. Note in my original post I am thinking only of BMW bikes with a DRY auto type clutch. I note in my 2011 BMW R1200R manual: Oil required is "SF" or better. This goes WAY BACK to some Zinc AND Moly rich oils. Hardly "motorcycle specific" types of oil.
 
Originally Posted By: ammolab
Jim: I don't see any "spec" in my 2011 BMW manual that would eliminate any oil on the basis of "zinc". "JASO MA" is not a concern on the Air or Air/oil cooled BMWs as far as I know. I think it has some viscosity recomendations and "SJ" Oil or better. I will check tonight when I get home. I wonder if I really care about the "cat". My bike is N Mexico plated as I am moving there next year...no inspection or emission testing. Would I know if it was harmed by a high zinc oil?
Is it correct that there is no maximum limit on ZDDP in the SJ spec? I admit to being out of my element, so I stand to be corrected. If I'm not mistaken if your cat is not working to minimum spec'd efficiency as measured by your O2 sensors, you should get a check engine light. How the engine reacts until that condition is resolved is uncertain to me. Some engines for example go into "open loop" mode when there is an O2 sensor issue and run rich until the condition is corrected. That would theoretically not be ideal. If it is the case that zinc could do more than lower the efficiency of the catalyst by for example plugging the cat, then I think you'd notice that too. In either case it might be the case that you'd have to replace the cat, or hollow it out and flash the computer to not throw a code as a response. I guess I'd want to have some certainty around those issues before I did it. You'd have to condition everyone's advice based on how much oil your bike loses to blowby. Mine uses almost nothing, so none of this might really end up being an issue. If we were talking about certain recent Honda V6's that are designed with low friction (higher blowby) oil control rings, then it might be a more sensitive subject. Just one more thing to factor into your consideration.
 
Jim: On my R1200R the only O2 sensors are BEFORE the Cat... Many riders completely remove the Cats and install a replacement exhaust system. No need to retune or worry about any sensors throwing a code because the O2 sensors are only there to clue the Fuel injection system for proper fueling. Many cars have an 'after Cat' O2 sensor that monitors the status of those devices. Not so on my Bike. Neither I, the Bike, or the Goverment would know if my Cats get tired from too much zinc.
 
I have used Castrol for years in dozens of vehicles and I have never had an issue. The 5w-50 looks interesting but there is a guy on a motorcycle specific forum that I frequent who uses Mobil 1 15w-50 in his 1996 R1100GS boxer. The engine is bone stock and has never been opened up. So needless to say, I also use Mobil 1 15w-50 in my BMW. Here is a pic of Hank's odometer that is at least a year old: Hank also has a website that you can check out. It is not very extensive but then again you don't put half a million miles on a bike while sitting at your computer. linky
 
I have used a LOT of that M1 15W-50 myself. The K75C has 138,000miles on it now, most on that oil, and looks like NEW inside the cam cover. I was just thinking that the Castrol synthetic 5W-50 would be good too.
 
Can't you just use the cheapest 10W40 oil and get 100,000+ miles like the Japanese bikes?? (sorry) wink If your bike doesn't burn oil, the cats will be fine with a high zinc/phos oil.
 
I used this oil for autumn riding. The cooler temps mean a 20w-50 leaves my top end dry at start up so I really like the 5w rating. I have an 08 street bob. I would like to know how shear stable it is and weather it will go 5000 miles on an air cooled bike and still maintain it's viscosity. If you decide to use it and get a uoa done post it. I would like to know how well it handled the heat. And high zinc is a plus
 
Take a look thru the MC uoa's, and check out how Valvoline 20/50 wt racing oil holds up in Harley's. That oil seems to be the one to beat on all fronts. And it's price embarrass's all the high priced boutique oils that sell for twice the price.,,
 
Originally Posted By: ledslinger
A bit of thread drift. What do you think of BMW M oils such as TWS for motorcycles?
I would run 10W-60 TWS in any of my BMW bikes without worry.... I have it in the garage for my M Coupe, but @ $12/quart...I have never used a drop in the BMW bikes. That is why I think the 5W-50 Syntec is so attractive: High Zinc Proper weight for year round running On sale at AutoZone quite often ($25.99 gets you 5qts and a oil filter right now!).
 
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