I read that somewhere and was wondering same thing.Where did all that condensation come from?
I read that somewhere and was wondering same thing.Where did all that condensation come from?
Excessive crank case venting. Since its turbocharged and the manifold is often pressurized, the PCV system has two vents. One goes to the manifold for when the manifold is in vacuum, the other vents to the air intake just before the turbo compressor. When you are in boost, all of the blow by and vapors from the crank go through the turbo and then into the intercooler. The intercooler was nice and cold and condensed all of it out of the air like the most efficient catch can you've ever seen.Where did all that condensation come from?
I've read a lot about LSPI......to my understanding it's almost always seen in 4 cylinder TDI engines and not V6 or V8 TDI engines. Is there a specific reason for this ? I've read about V6 EcoBoost engines grenading themselves, but 95% of the time this is due to having a "HOT" tune loaded and not LSPI related. However the web is full of 4 cylinder engines that have come apart due to LSPI.
It's been my understanding that basically any oil formulated for the European market can easily pass any North American test related to wear, deposits, oil consumption, etc. but cannot pass the fuel economy portion because of the robustness of their oils (formulated for max wear protection, longer drain intervals and low deposits). However the opposite can be said about oils formulated for the North American market, they'd fail most Euro spec tests for wear, deposits, oil consumption, etc. because they're geared toward max fuel economy over everything else while providing "adequate" protection......I suppose I should really wave the flag for Castrol. However I think that a simple GF-6 oil is probably the right way to go here for a couple of reasons.
First off, any A3/B4 oil, by design, is formulated for BOTH petrol & diesel engines vehicles. As diesels are such a rarity in the US, you will in effect will be paying for something you don't need. Typically the diesel requirements will push up levels of ashless dispersant/dispersant VII in the oil which sounds a good thing but isn't. Given the way sales of diesels have tanked in recent years, I do wonder if us Europeans (yes I still consider myself to be one!) would do well to emulate the US example & split the two duties.
As regards the 'I need 3.5 HTHS to reduce wear' thing. Yes, I know it's 'a thing' but honestly, I stopped believing it years ago. The evidence just isn't there to support it in PCMO.
Paying theoretically? Bcs. price of Castrol Edge is lower than M1 5W30 EP in Wal Mart. PP Euro L 5W30 goes for $21 and change for 5qt.I suppose I should really wave the flag for Castrol. However I think that a simple GF-6 oil is probably the right way to go here for a couple of reasons.
First off, any A3/B4 oil, by design, is formulated for BOTH petrol & diesel engines vehicles. As diesels are such a rarity in the US, you will in effect will be paying for something you don't need. Typically the diesel requirements will push up levels of ashless dispersant/dispersant VII in the oil which sounds a good thing but isn't. Given the way sales of diesels have tanked in recent years, I do wonder if us Europeans (yes I still consider myself to be one!) would do well to emulate the US example & split the two duties.
As regards the 'I need 3.5 HTHS to reduce wear' thing. Yes, I know it's 'a thing' but honestly, I stopped believing it years ago. The evidence just isn't there to support it in PCMO.
It's been my understanding that basically any oil formulated for the European market can easily pass any North American test related to wear, deposits, oil consumption, etc. but cannot pass the fuel economy portion because of the robustness of their oils (formulated for max wear protection, longer drain intervals and low deposits). However the opposite can be said about oils formulated for the North American market, they'd fail most Euro spec tests for wear, deposits, oil consumption, etc. because they're geared toward max fuel economy over everything else while providing "adequate" protection......
Apologies. I've never, ever been inside a Walmart store but it's there on my bucket list!Paying theoretically? Bcs. price of Castrol Edge is lower than M1 5W30 EP in Wal Mart. PP Euro L 5W30 goes for $21 and change for 5qt.
LOL. I understand your hesitance.Apologies. I've never, ever been inside a Walmart store but it's there on my bucket list!
I suppose I should really wave the flag for Castrol. However I think that a simple GF-6 oil is probably the right way to go here for a couple of reasons.
First off, any A3/B4 oil, by design, is formulated for BOTH petrol & diesel engines vehicles. As diesels are such a rarity in the US, you will in effect will be paying for something you don't need. Typically the diesel requirements will push up levels of ashless dispersant/dispersant VII in the oil which sounds a good thing but isn't. Given the way sales of diesels have tanked in recent years, I do wonder if us Europeans (yes I still consider myself to be one!) would do well to emulate the US example & split the two duties.
As regards the 'I need 3.5 HTHS to reduce wear' thing. Yes, I know it's 'a thing' but honestly, I stopped believing it years ago. The evidence just isn't there to support it in PCMO.
Just curious what you think of Shell Rotella T6 Multi Vehicle 5w30? It is rated as an HDEO and suitable for usage in both gasoline and diesel engines. It the best 5w30 I have ever used.
Shell Rotella® T6 Multi-Vehicle Full Synthetic
Useable in both diesel and gasoline engines, Shell ROTELLA® T6 Multi-Vehicle Full Synthetic is a synthetic diesel oil providing peak performance and exceptional fuel economy. Learn more this product here.rotella.shell.com
This puts me in mind of the old joke...
The optimist says the glass is half full.
The pessimist says the glass is half empty
The chemical engineer says the glass is twice as big as it needs to be & design changes are required
Using an HDDO like Rotella T6 in a PCMO application will indeed work. However it will be 'twice as big as it needs to be'. It will contain up to double the amount of ashless dispersant, primarily put there to disperse diesel soot; soot that will of course not exist in a gasoline engine.
Interesting that you mention soot, I elected to use this oil in my Hyundai's gasoline direct injection engine because I saw evidence of excessive carbon soot builup which I think it did an excellent job of cleaning out to the point of clogging the oil filter.
Fram TITANIUM FS9688 - 8000 miles on Hyundai GDI
Used on 2012 Hyundai Accent GLS between 105,000 - 113,000 miles. First OCI was Valvoline Synthetic Maxlife 0w20 for 4000 miles, second OCI was three quarts of the same Valvoline and one-half quart of Rotella T6 5w30 Multi Vehicle for 4000 miles. I have posted in a previous engine noise thread...bobistheoilguy.com
Fram Ultra XG9688 - 9000 miles on Hyundai GDI
Used on 2012 Hyundai Accent GLS between 96,000 - 105,000 miles. First OCI was Mobil 1 0w40 for 5000 miles, second OCI was Rotella T6 5w30 Multi Vehicle for 4000 miles. Engine developed a tick after about 8500 miles and it has a reputation for doing so based on variables related to the oil...bobistheoilguy.com
In the last few months of my career as a hyundai tech, I had several cars that needed new GDI injectors, FWIW... On some I already discovered issues at the first service.
The oils turned into a mess, not black but definitely dark and varnish deposits everywhere, including up the disptick.
Ah! Looked at the photographs & that definitely looks icky. I can see why you put Rotella in if your used oil's looking like that.
A couple of things come to mind...
First off, don't worry overly about oil going black. In my (former) world, this kind of thing is quite normal. Used diesel oil can be as black as pitch & still function quite happily.
Second, given that this is GDI, I might be asking if I've a faulty fuel injector, where the spray pattern's all messed up. Have you asked your Hyundai dealer to pull the injectors & get them checked out?
Third, is the oil accumulating soot from poorly burning gasoline or is black grot there because you're burning oil? Black engine oil was a common feature of the Audi TFSI 2.0 litre problems from around 2007 & that early GDI engine burnt oil like crazy. I don't do spanners & screw drivers but if I could safely disassemble the line from the PCV valve to the air intake, I might have squint inside the intake for any signs of black, condensed oil. I have a pet theory that fuel dilution in GDIs can strip the light front-end of your base oil when the fuel in the oil re-evaporates. I'm assuming it get pretty cold in Wisconsin & that will very likely exacerbate things.
there were no lumps, usually the faulty injectors were cleaner than the good ones... sometimes though they were all equally sooted up. The issue is more that they leak some fuel when they shouldn't.
Very helpful information, thank you both!
The Hyundai in my possession was actually donated to me by someone who just didn't want to put up with it anymore and it apparently has had issues from the beginning of ownership. One look under the oil filler cap reveals a buildup of black nastiness inside the engine that apparently has begun to be loosened up with my maintenance efforts over the past 25,000 miles or so. The car has no meaningful market value and I am just interested in keeping it going to use with a charitable organization I work with.
The one lingering issue that keeps rearing its head is a CEL for the knock sensor which promptly goes away upon changing the oil and filter or running a bottle of fuel injector cleaner (ie Royal Purple, Redline SL1, etc) or both.
I have the 2016 1.6l GDI engine and it's been pretty bulletproof.Again very interesting...
If the issue is injectors leaking fuel (which must be finding its way into the sump oil) & you start seeing knock issues which go away when you change out the oil, I'd put serious money on the fact that you're burning oil that's been stripped out of the sump by re-evaporating leaked gasoline.
Back in the day, I used to blend gasoline at my old oil refinery. I never thought to measure the RON & MON of base oil but I can tell you it will be extremely poor & even tiny amounts will be very disruptive! Likewise any carbonaceous deposits it leaves behind (the gritty bits?) will act as mini glow-plugs post combustion, further increasing the tendency to knock.
How on earth did Hyundai get this engine so wrong? I used to do a lot of work with the South Koreans in the late 80s & visited the massive Hyundai plant in Ulsan. They were so impressive back then!