Castrol 10w40 4t

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Jul 27, 2014
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Location
TN
I saw a report from Blackstone on the 20w50 version, but none on the 10w40. Anyone have feedback on this pop for a motorcycle?

About the same as Mobil 1 and Amsoil? Pros/Cons?

Thank you
 
Got it on clearance a couple of months ago at AZ.. i looked and couldnt find any info UOA/VOA either...
 
Originally Posted by JPowell490

. Anyone have feedback on this pop for a motorcycle?

About the same as Mobil 1 and Amsoil? Pros/Cons?

Thank you


The pro is both Amsoil and Mobil 1 will meet and exceed your mileage
expectations... that is because Amsoil base (90%) is premium Mobil 1...
the con is cost... Amsoil is $12.95 qt whereas Mobil 1 is $5.40 qt...
Mobil 1 is able to sell high quality oil at a great price because
it enjoys about 80% of the market share...
 
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Originally Posted by BusyLittleShop


Flee Markets and Yard Sales...


So if you don't value your time, you might eventually run across some Mobil 1 10w40 4T oil, at a flea market or yard sale...

Or you could just spend the extra $5.00-$6.00 or so per quart and buy it new at any number of convenient retailers, and get on with living life.
 
My simple mind fails to see the difference in price between Amsoil and Mobil 1 as a legitimate comparison when Mobil 1 is purchased at flea markets on a second-hand basis.
 
Or you go for a 4T equivalent that will meet and exceed your mileage
expectations and only spend $22.88 for 5 quarts at Walmart thats only
$4.57 a quart... chemically speaking 90% of 4T is Syn M1 10w 40 auto
anyhow... not to mention the other 10% of additives ppm are about
same as $12 a quart Amsoil 10w40 Metric...

[Linked Image]
 
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I bought a lot of the Castrol Power 1 during Auto Zone's sale a few months ago as well but haven't had a chance to use it. You have to watch Auto Zone and their stores all have different pricing, also have to watch because they must not sell a lot of motorcycle oil as some of what I bought was Power RS which is the old formula which I noticed it when I saw it but was cheap and on sale so I'll most likely use that up first. I've mostly been using their Actevo Semi-Synthetic blend in 10w40 which has been good for me in my Ninja 650.
 
Originally Posted by BusyLittleShop
Or you go for a 4T equivalent that will meet and exceed your mileage
expectations and only spend $22.88 for 5 quarts at Walmart thats only
$4.57 a quart... chemically speaking 90% of 4T is Syn M1 10w 40 auto
anyhow... not to mention the other 10% of additives ppm are about
same as $12 a quart Amsoil 10w40 Metric...

[Linked Image]







Busylittleshop,

If that graphic is true, then M1 is definitely the way to go. Appreciate you posting that.
 
Originally Posted by JPowell490


If that graphic is true, then M1 is definitely the way to go. Appreciate you posting that.


You're welcome...
 
Originally Posted by BusyLittleShop
Or you go for a 4T equivalent that will meet and exceed your mileage
expectations and only spend $22.88 for 5 quarts at Walmart thats only
$4.57 a quart... chemically speaking 90% of 4T is Syn M1 10w 40 auto
anyhow... not to mention the other 10% of additives ppm are about
same as $12 a quart Amsoil 10w40 Metric...

[Linked Image]








The analysis of the Mobil 1 10w40 "Auto oil" doesn't jive with any product data Mobil 1 publishes as of June 2019. What date was that analysis?

Mobil 1 publishes 900 PPM of zinc and 800 PPM of phosphorus for the 10w40 HM syn. 10w40 4T 1300z and 1200p respectively. No boron amount in the auto oil exceeds about 85 ppm in recent uoa's. Boron is about twice that ppm in the 4T.

I would love to explore the similarity between the two but I don't see the evidence, other than 1 uoa that doesn't match up with anything else I can find.
 
Originally Posted by Bonz

Mobil 1 publishes 900 PPM of zinc and 800 PPM of phosphorus for the 10w40 HM syn. 10w40 4T 1300z and 1200p respectively.


Technically speaking the 300ppm increase in phosphorus and 500ppm zinc
does NOT provide any more wear protection, adding more phosphorus and
zinc means it will just last longer than the manufactures recommended
oil change interval... a moot point we follow the prescribed oil change interval...
 
I disagree that the difference between 900 PPM and 1300 PPM of zinc does not provide additional wear protection. No heartburn if that's what you believe, but I'd like to see the studies.

Zinc is not a sacrificial element in an oil, unless something severe goes wrong, it remains the full time and does perform work in normal operating conditions of lessening wear. Am I wrong on that? Always open to correction.

If that was the case, the new oils would not have intervals going out to 7,500 or 10,000 miles. The zinc would be gone long before then. Notice the amount of boron increasing as zinc/phos goes down in oil formulations, substituting one for the other. If the difference in zinc didn't matter, then boron would not be added, IMO.

More zinc does provide more margin of protection all else equal in flat tappet engines.
 
Originally Posted by Bonz
No heartburn if that's what you believe, but I'd like to see the studies


Blackstone Labs has got the data that the level of additives don't have an awful lot to do with wear nor that one oil is better than another... so either the M1 or Amsoil will meet and exceed your mileage expectations...

"So what does this tell us? Well, on the face of it, it doesn't really look like
the levels of additives have an awful lot to do with engine wear. Brands
with more calcium and zinc don't have significantly better wear readings
than the brands with relatively lower additive levels."

"Well, we're no closer to saying that one type of oil is better than another,
that's for sure. We see much more variation in wear levels from the type
of engine, the time on the oil, the viscosity, the use the engine sees, etc.
Whatever differences exist from oil brand to oil brand, we don't see a lot
of difference in terms of wear for most types of engines."
 
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Originally Posted by Bonz

it remains the full time and does perform work in normal operating conditions of lessening wear. Am I wrong on that? Always open to correction.


Correction... Zinc does not work in normal operating conditions only
under extreme conditions and that more zinc does not give you more
protection, it merely prolongs the protection...

Quote Blackstone Labs
"The zinc in your oil comes into play only when there is actual metal
-to-metal contact within your engine, which should never occur under
normal operating conditions. However, if you race your bike, or
occasionally play tag with the redline on the tach, the zinc is your
last line of defense. Under extreme conditions, the zinc compounds
react with the metal to prevent scuffing, particularly between
cylinder bores and piston rings. However - and this is the important
part to remember available research shows that more zinc does not give
you more protection, it merely prolongs the protection if the rate of
metal-to-metal contact is abnormally high or extended."
 
All good stuff! I read that to mean the zinc allows you to extend the amount of time of abuse where zinc would come into play at metal-on-metal contact. It won't extend the oil change interval, the other additives are going to do that I believe.
 
Thinking on it, Blackstone data applies to automobile engines for the most part. Those are all roller tappet engines. Different animal than flat tappets in cycles.

Another thought, zinc is 900 PPM and let's say it is coming into play at cold startup with a very thin residual coating of oil, if you have 1300 PPM there is more zinc between that lobe and rocker. Again we are talkin flat tappet engines.

Help me out here, am I still too old-fashioned in my thinking?
 
Originally Posted by Bonz

Help me out here, am I still too old-fashioned in my thinking?


The notion the more zinc the more protection is on shaky ground... there is mounting evidence that more zinc the longer the protection...
 
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