Car stalling coming to a stop
- Thread starter lolford
- Start date
The fuel pump needs to be replaced to do that
It's not your car. Don't lose sleep over it.
Cool! Good luck on your repair!
Yeah, I'm done here. Unsubbed from this thread.
Its time to get it to Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics, Ivan can fix it, and probably with out having to buy new parts. 
My guess is IAC.
No iac it’s digital in the throttle body
You have to get an hour vac leak.
A hefty source of PEA and smoke the vacuum lines done.
Torque converter ? Happened to my nephew and I saw one on PHAD
New TCC and valvebody
I tried pumping the brakes when parked with a scan tool, didn't see any change in RPM or fuel trim!
I will insist they do it but, the mechanic said you'd see other symptoms (ex weird fuel trims)
how many miles?
when is the last time you cleaned the throttle body? it likely needs a relearn when cleaning is completed.
last time you changed fuel filter?
occasionally dumping seafoam in the fuel lessens varnishes on the throttle body in my experience.
another good 'lazy maintenance' tip is letting your low fuel light come on and then getting about a gallon of shell's 'v-power' gas. 'v-power' is in their premium 93 fuel only. run that for about 20 -30 miles. its concentrated full of excellent high end cleaners/detergents and its the cheapest way to get additives like that because its usually only $1 more than regular 87. you can feel a difference immediately in most cars when running it concentrated (low fuel light on) like that. it sounds hokey but try it. its only $1 after all...
i accidentally got it once and noticed it woke my car up. after reading about that v-power fuel i started running a gallon as described anytime i am low and near a shell station
you also might have a bad ground somewhere. i have fixed random/unexplainable symptoms in older cars by simply doing the big 3/big 4 wire upgrades. i usually just add the extra wires and leave the factory wires in place.
you can source cheap thick wires from the junkyard.
it could be as simple as a loose battery terminal too.
when is the last time you cleaned the throttle body? it likely needs a relearn when cleaning is completed.
last time you changed fuel filter?
occasionally dumping seafoam in the fuel lessens varnishes on the throttle body in my experience.
another good 'lazy maintenance' tip is letting your low fuel light come on and then getting about a gallon of shell's 'v-power' gas. 'v-power' is in their premium 93 fuel only. run that for about 20 -30 miles. its concentrated full of excellent high end cleaners/detergents and its the cheapest way to get additives like that because its usually only $1 more than regular 87. you can feel a difference immediately in most cars when running it concentrated (low fuel light on) like that. it sounds hokey but try it. its only $1 after all...
i accidentally got it once and noticed it woke my car up. after reading about that v-power fuel i started running a gallon as described anytime i am low and near a shell station
you also might have a bad ground somewhere. i have fixed random/unexplainable symptoms in older cars by simply doing the big 3/big 4 wire upgrades. i usually just add the extra wires and leave the factory wires in place.
you can source cheap thick wires from the junkyard.
it could be as simple as a loose battery terminal too.
It's been happening since around 70K miles, I'm at about 110.
The fuel filter is built into the pump. The throttle body is new, I've tried putting in 91, though I only use top tier gas.
I'll look for bad grounds and add some new wiring
proceed in this order: clean your throttle body first, reset/relearn throttle position sensor, clean maf, check battery & terminals, check grounds and fuses, dump cleaner in fuel, pop off your belt and check for junk pulleys, do big 3/4 wire upgrades.... disconnect battery to clear all memory and follow all the procedures to relearn everything.
if that didnt work then pull the fuel pump and replace it or bypass the in-tank filter and plumb one in on the fuel line. lastly shoot a parts cannnon: a tighter/shorter belt, a new tensioner.
it aint gonna fix your problem, but the shell vpower premium is even better than 'top tier' anywhere else. it is an elite product and takes literally one gallon, $1 extra.
also your ford throttle body is probably teflon coated and needs a specific tb cleaner safe for teflon (CRC tb cleaner is safe) and you need a specific maf cleaner too (CRC maf cleaner is safe)
if that didnt work then pull the fuel pump and replace it or bypass the in-tank filter and plumb one in on the fuel line. lastly shoot a parts cannnon: a tighter/shorter belt, a new tensioner.
it aint gonna fix your problem, but the shell vpower premium is even better than 'top tier' anywhere else. it is an elite product and takes literally one gallon, $1 extra.
also your ford throttle body is probably teflon coated and needs a specific tb cleaner safe for teflon (CRC tb cleaner is safe) and you need a specific maf cleaner too (CRC maf cleaner is safe)
Sorry to bump the thread, now that its' warm car will DIP rpm at every single stop when it's warm. (The higher speed I was moving before ex highway vs local road, the bigger the drop when I come to a stop :/
If I give the car a bit of gas for a few seconds before stopping. suddenly it's ok though
I've messed with the fuses, ran cleaner, checked cables and voltages, did a big data log with fuel trims and throttle body opening.
I wasn't able take the belt off because you need jack the car up and the passenger side wheel off, they wanted $150 in labour just to that at the mechanic shop
MAF and TB were replaced last year
Has the power steering pressure sensor every been replaced? I've had GM's ps pressure sensors go bad and cause stalling when turning the wheel at stops.
A couple other vehicles that I had stalling issues with had bad ground wires that corroded internally. One at the battery and the other was at the ECU.
Idk, just a couple ideas to check. Good luck
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