Cap and rotor change on 2000 Civic

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Patman

Patman

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A while ago I bought a cap and rotor kit for my wife's 2000 Civic (106hp 1.6L engine) and today I finally got around to putting it in. When I took it out of the box though, it only came with the cap, not a new rotor. When I took everything apart it looked like the rotor was not a replaceable item, but permanently attached to the distributor. Is this correct, or did I get ripped off by not getting a rotor with the "kit" that I bought?
 
If it comes with a distributor cap, you can sure bet your $$ that the distributor rotor is replacable.

Rotate the crank while peeping the rotor base until you come across a screw (head size I believe it's 8mm) and then take it off.

Make sure you have the distributor cap gasket(o-ring seal) relaced while you are replacing the distributor cap.
 
Well that sucks, since I bought the kit so long ago that I don't have the receipt, so I can't complain now about not getting the rotor with it.
frown.gif


I didn't bother to replace the o ring seal, hopefully that doesn't end up being a decision I'll come to regret.

Is it really that critical to change the rotor? Isn't the cap the more wear prone portion of the two? I'd hate to do this job all over again, it was a little bit of a pain to remove the rear most bolt on the cap.
 
They're both wear items. I'd open it back up and replace the rotor and gasket, too. You definitely don't want water to penetrate the cap. Your wife could wind up having a really bad day the next time it rains.
 
You can probably just get some 600 grit sand paper and sand the burnt point on both the cap's contact and the rotor's contact. I did that to my car and it smoothed out the engine by quite a bit.

Now whether spending 15 mins to sand both of them to save a 30k miles worth of wear and tear, or should you just spending $40 to replace both is a decision that is up to you.
 
Pat for goodness sake replace all of the components with fresh stuff, or we'll be reading fuel dilute AGAIN because of worn ignitions components! Yes Sir, the rotor is attached with a set screw or nut. Don't yank on it...

This reminds me of the plug in your firebird that you would not get changed for thousands of miles.....

Do it right and reap lower fuel costs over the winter. Not to mention the Better half can burn out better when engaging the Vtec...
 
Hehe, you remembered about that one plug in the old Firebird eh Terry?
laugh.gif
In my defence, anyone who knows about the LT1, knows about that one brutal plug which is buried behind the alternator. Thank ________ I got rid of that car, and got the Corvette, which is a cynch to change plugs. All 8 can be done in 45min without even rushing.

I must say that the Honda's engine idles a heck of a lot better after I swapped in the new cap today, although I also swapped in a set of NGK platinum plugs too, so that could be part of it also.

I guess I'd better make a trip to a parts store and grab a new rotor. I'm on holidays next week so I'll have no excuse not to do it, with all the free time I'm gonna have.
smile.gif


PS-this Civic isn't the VTEC model unfortunately. It's just the 106hp weakling. So it needs every horsepower in it's stable to be up to stuff.
smile.gif
 
The rotor for your Honda is always sold seperately.

I've noticed every time I replace the cap & rotor in our 98 Civic, they are both worn out with just 40K miles on them. Replacing the old gasket isn't necessary.
 
Patman-

In that case, someone either (a) forgot to package the rotor into your cap+rotor package, or (b) somebody took the rotor out of your package, thus leaving it with a Cap+Rotor kit sans(minus) the rotor.

BTW: when it comes to Honda parts I always spend a bit extra and go for factory OEM deal. Never fails on all the Hondas I've serviced so far (with the exception of GP sorensen aftermarket kits for they would begin to "miss" after a couple of days).
 
I went to Canadian Tire this morning and they had a different brand of cap and rotor there this time, and it was only sold in the complete kit, for $31. I went to the Honda dealer and they wanted $29 just for the rotor only! I still bought it though, since I didn't feel like making a trip back to Canadian Tire and what would I do with the extra cap anyhow?

I should've just gone to NAPA or Carquest, I'm sure they would've sold me the rotor for half that price. Live and learn.
 
Pat!

Always buy the cap and rotor as a pair from the same supplier (e.g. if you are to get the cap+rotor kit from ________ Tire then yes, please do so).

What I'm trying to say is that don't get an aftermarket cap (non OE ones) and then get an OE rotor to go with it, chances are, it may not work at all.

reason being is that many aftermarket cap and rotor makers alter their design quite a bit RE: rotor contact surfact height, rotor spinning disc diameter, etc. dramatically from the factory specifications and they will make certain adjustments on the cap side to accommodate this (happened to me already with Neihoff and GP Sorensen aftermarket replacements for Honda cars).

If you get a cap and rotor kit from ________ tires (Neihoff), please get the full set. similarly, if you decided to go with factory units, get both cap and rotor straight from Honda.

(Also: don't hesitate to ask for a discount from dealership parts dept for many times they would give you 10% off or maybe a bit more)

Honda part#30102-P54-006 (Honda cap by Tec)

From my memory, this is a "universal" cap for all Hondas in the 90s but do double-check with your dealership if possible to ensure that.

Good luck.
 
Oh sure, now you tell me!
smile.gif


I already changed the rotor this afternoon, and I'm sure as heck not going to do it a third time. The engine is running just fine.
smile.gif


Next time I'll get the full kit and make sure it's got the rotor with it.
 
Quote:

Why would they sell the rotor seperately when the box I got the cap in said "cap and rotor kit"?

Click to expand...


It is just probably a generic box.

1.) The rotor is always separately witha honda.
2.) Replace the gasket for the cap as well.
3.) The rotor can be changed by removing the screw and pulling the keyed rotor of and slipping the new one on and reinserting the screw.

Bump the engine until you see the rotor screw.

Not replacing the rotor more or less makes you cap replacement pointless.
 
Quote:




1.) The rotor is always separately witha honda.



Click to expand...


That's what a couple of you guys have said so far, although I found that Canadian Tire sells a Champion kit which definitely includes both the cap and rotor (I opened the box to confirm it)

I was wondering how often are you supposed to change the cap and rotor? I don't believe it's even listed in the owner's manual.
 
I change cap and rotor with OE units every 60,000kms for Toyotas and Hondas. Some cars have to service more frequently (like my Mazda 323, CI is roughly 50,000kms).
 
Quote:

Quote:




1.) The rotor is always separately witha honda.



Click to expand...


That's what a couple of you guys have said so far, although I found that Canadian Tire sells a Champion kit which definitely includes both the cap and rotor (I opened the box to confirm it)

I was wondering how often are you supposed to change the cap and rotor? I don't believe it's even listed in the owner's manual.

Click to expand...


Honda's are quite picky when it comes to their ignition systems.

Dealer has told me to replace them every year and after seeing how bad the one year old cap and rotor was on my friends car, I believe him.
 
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