Can't get Mustang to quit venting coolant!

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Help Guys!
I have a 99 Mustang GT And I'm having problems with the system venting itself through the pressure cap on the coolant reservoir. I put a new 16psi pressure cap on it. The temperature guage is running normal the same way it has for years. I don't understand whats going on. It just keeps venting fluid out the pressure cap.
Wonder what could cause this?
 
The temperature gauge is dumbed a significant amount. Not as bad as the oil pressure gauge which only has two positions, but the temp could be quite a bit above normal and look the same.
You are building pressure for some reason. Have you changed the thermostat?
 
Thanks Colt,
I've been wondering about the guages. I've never really trusted the factory guages in the mustangs. Does the oil pressure guage really only have 2 settings? I have not changed the thermostat yet.
 
Maybe you have a burr on the neck of the surge tank that bypasses the cap seal.
 
Factory gauges are notorious for inaccuracy & thermostats do fail. I have pulled stats out of Fords before with broken bridges.

A air void/pocket is a possibility.

Does it vent the capacity of the entire reservoir & overflow?
 
All good suggestions guys. I'm gonna look into all of them. Keep the recommendations comming.
Thanks!
 
Drew, what link did you provide? Could you re-post it? Any and all info would be much appreciated
 
4.6 or 3.8L? The earlier 4.6's (SOHC) had a silent recall running on the composite intake manifold's. I saw that cause a geyser on a '97 t-bird I used to own, as well as several CVPI's at work, which had build dates as late as '01. The latest 4.6's are pretty much bulletproof daily drivers. 3.8's were generally a good motor, but the head gaskets were notorious for failure on cylinders 3 and 6 with older generations. I can't remember if your '99 fell under that span. IIRC both issues caused a class-action, and you might be able to look to ford for compensation. I sold that t-bird to a now deceased buddy back in 2003, and he toasted the motor top to bottom when the manifold failed, and he wasn't watching the gauges on a long drive. Ford gave him a new long block installed minus shop supply fees. I had already replaced the manifold once out of pocket, before the class action came to light.
 
He said GT so it has a 4.6. A '99 would indeed have the bad manifold. He says its venting through the pressure cap, though. Not around the thermostat which is the usual failure point on the plastic coolant crossover, though I have seen/heard of other places. The temp sensor area is another one. The extended warranty on the intake manifold was 7 years/...I forget the mileage, but it does not matter as it is long out of the year range officially as the last vehicles covered were MY01 which would have been up until 2008. Interestingly, I have heard of two or three MY02 vehicles which had the bad manifold and were denied coverage because it was not within the extended warranty year range.

But this is getting off track.
I would have the new cap tested just on the off chance you got a faulty one. The suggestion to check the surge tank to make sure you are actually sealing is a good one.
If you know someone with a scangauge or similar that can read raw data from the computer, that would be great. As it would solve any question of it actually running hot or not.
Heck, even if you have to shell out for one, they are extremely useful for any troubleshooting like this and it is way worth the money.
Headgasket is possible, but unlikely; they rarely fail on these engines.
But it will build pressure like this.
Question: If you take it out cold and hammer on it, will it vent out the cap, before the gauge even enters normal?
I have found that coolant from a engine with a blown HG will smell like raw fuel in addition to the usual sweetness. A better test would be to use one of those kits that sucks the air coming out of the coolant system through a liquid that reacts to hydrocarbons.
A leak down test would would work too, but a bit more complicated, since you have to ensure both valves are closed on the cylinder you are attempting to test.
Ive found straight compression tests unreliable for a bad head gasket, interestingly.
 
Thanks again Colt,
Yes, this car had the intake with the plastic crossover. And it cracked around the thermostat housing. I replaced the manifold with an aftermarket one about 2 or 3 years ago. I've thought about the "hammer on it while its cold and see if it spews test" ...gonna try it. If it spews, then that would be a definite head gasket failure right? Another thing I noticed a couple times is even after letting it cool off overnight there is still pressure in the system. When I open the cap it lets off pressure.
The venting problem has been coming and going. Not always venting when driven, but usually has some liquid around the venting area. And it seems like it has been using a slow, steady amount of fluid as its being driven. But the last time I drove it, it vented a great deal of fluid. And I have been keeping the reservoir on the low side to rule out it being over full and venting for that reason.
I haven't noticed any steam or antifreeze smell coming from the tailpipes.
Gonna do the "hammer on it while cold test" and see what I find and proceed from there.

Keep the comments coming. You've been a tremendous help.
 
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If you have residual pressure after that much down time, I don't see how it could possibly be a head gasket.

My 96 Crown Vic has always had a coolant leak of one sort or another due to high pressure. It has popped the upper hose for the heater core twice. It had always leaked around the heater core hose nipple on the intake manifold, until I unscrewed it and JB Welded it, which completely stopped the leak. Now, it leaks from the drain petcock, even though I have replaced the petcock, and recently even the pressure cap. Nothing stops it.
 
After cooling off overnight there shouldn't be ANY pressure in the cooling system..... right?

Just checking to see if my memory is serving me right.
 
OK Colt,
I did the "hammer on it cold test." Here's what I found.

I started the car and drove about a mile slowly to allow some sort of homeostasis for the pistons/rings/cylinder clearances. Kept the vent on heat and when it was blowing warm, I hammered on it real good through 2 gears. Stopped at a red light kept feeling the vent... still just "warm." Then I quickly hammered on it in 2 more gears (all the way to the rev limiter.) As I coasted down from this second run the air coming out of the vent went COLD. I coasted down about 3-4 blocks into a gas station, and all the while the vent blew out COLD air. I jumped out and opened the hood. There was no liquid around the reservoir vent at all. It did not vent. I quickly felt the top radiator hose coming off the thermostat housing and it was COLD like no heat had gotten to it at all yet. Total trip was about 1 mile slow warm up, and then 1 1/2 miles hammering on it twice and coast down.

Give me your thoughts on what happened here. I have a theory, but don't want to mention it before others have a chance to give theirs.
 
Originally Posted By: j_mac
After cooling off overnight there shouldn't be ANY pressure in the cooling system..... right?


There is on my two cars with a surge tank.
 
Thanks Brian,
I'm not real experienced with with vehicles with surge tanks. Glad to know its normal. I just remember over the years that the old stuff with a radiator cap there never seemed to be any pressure in those.
So a hiss and short rush of air is normal on these?
 
OK
I replaced the pressure cap. Then I replaced the thermostat. Before the thermostat even opens (cold upper radiator hose) the system builds enough pressure to open the pressure cap's relief and a steady trickle of antifreeze pours onto the ground. When it takes the notion as the car is warming up the heat will go from warm to cold. These problems come and go.
What do you guys think is wrong?
 
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