can't get engine mount bolt loose

[terminaldegree]

Hey All,

Patient is a '96 Bonneville, 3800 series II. Trying to change the serpentine belt, you actually HAVE to remove an engine mount bolt to get the belt out. Can't budge it with correct size socket and 1/2" drive. Tried to do it with engine bay hot, and later when warm. Not a lot of room to move in there, and you can't actually see what you're doing.

Anyone done this one before? Suggestions? I did it successfully on our '99 lesabre [same scenario] but this one's really stubborn. Car is a southern car-- things don't look rusty underhood.

Thanks for any tips!

 

[Ken42]

Tried using some penentrating oil? May have to heat it up?

Ken

Good luck

 

[srivett]

I'd start by hitting the bolt with a drift and sledge hammer. Then I'd use a power bar and extensions so that I could get all my leverage on the bolt. If necessary use an impact style u-joint on the socket and a pipe on the power bar. The automotive style u-joints are a pain in the butt as they fold over.

Steve

 

[paulo57509]

I've never seen the engine mount arrangement you have so I'm speaking in generalities.

Would taking the engine weight off of the fastener make a difference?

 

[Drew99GT]

Do you have a cheater pipe you can attach to your ratchet? How about a soft mallet to strike the racthet handle. Both of those mthods have served me well.

 

[Gary Allan]

How about access through the wheel well? Is there some plastic panel that can be removed to give you a better perspective on what you're doing??

 

[terminaldegree]

Thanks, guys for all the suggestions.

-taking the engine weight off might help. The only reason I haven't tried it is because it wasn't necessary on our LeSabre the last time we did it [same arrangement].

-cheater pipe isn't really a possibility [at least on top of the ratchet] because there is probably only another 2 inches off the end of the handle with which to work.

-access through the wheel well involves removing the wheel and the plastic paneling [not easy]. Then, maybe I'd have enough room to get an impact wrench in there. Maybe I'm too lazy to try this one, though.

-haven't tried penetrating oil yet.

-srivett, those suggestions sound interesting, but I don't have any of those parts. That doesn't mean I won't think about it, though.

THANKS to all of you for your ideas thus far.

 

[Drew99GT]

Shouldn't you support the engine with a jack anyway? That's the procedure when I changed the serpentine on my 99 Grand Am.

 

[terminaldegree]

According to the "official" procedure, yes.

Many others with this body style have had no trouble removing the bolt without supporting the engine. A lot of the folks on the "H" body boards have said that it really isn't necessary. That is the easiest next step, so I'll probably do that tomorrow. Just a block of wood under the oil pan with a jack, right?

 

[Drew99GT]

Yup, block of wood. Hopefully that'll take the strain of those bolts so they'll break free. Good luck

Cursing at the top of my lungs usually helps

 

[eljefino]

Rethink those plastic panels in the wheel well. They come out easier than you think. My ciera 3.3 needed a splash shield removed every time to get at the oil filter.

 

[1 FMF]

oxy-acetylene torch, or map gas torch, if all else fails. Heat the bolt to red hot then it should break loose with moderate ratchet force.