Can Mityvac 7201 bleed brakes?

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I can't justify buying a Mityvac just for oil changes, but if it also works for bleeding brakes then maybe it would be worth it. I have seen brake bleeders before that use pressure to force fluid through. It seems like the principle is the same...hook it up to a caliper with some sort of adapter, crack the bleed valve and suck the fluid through...but I don't know if that's different than forcing fluid through with pressure.
 
Brake bleeding is what I use mine the most for although it's the pneumatic version. It had the adapter and hose included if I recall. Of course you keep your eye on the master cylinder during the process, as in top it off after finishing each wheel, then you won't get any air.
 
Is there another, cheap tool for bleeding breaks then?

I want to do a complete flush, and I want to avoid the pump-the-pedal method if possible.
 
I always vacuum bleed and use a bottle to autofill the reservoir. Any air that leaks out around the bleeder screw threads is a non-issue. That will NOT put air back into the system.
 
I have tried the Mityvac method and did not care for it. It appeared that the vacuum was pulling in air past the bleeder screw threads. That made it impossible to know when I had removed all the air from the system. I much prefer pressure bleeding.
 
I use the Motive Products brake bleeder. The key is to buy the one for your vehicle and to make a leak free connection with the master cylinder. Once set up, its a matter of opening and closing the wheel bleeders. Also, be advised that brake fluid will strip paint, so wash down the master cylinder and surrounding area with water when done.
 
I have tried the Mityvac method and did not care for it. It appeared that the vacuum was pulling in air past the bleeder screw threads. That made it impossible to know when I had removed all the air from the system.
Yes of course it pulls air past the bleeder screw threads, but so what. You know when you're done with that wheel when you see the fluid coming out turn from dark to clear so you know all the fluid in that line is new fluid. Ok, if the old fluid was clean as well, then you can gauge it by the amount the level drops in the master cylinder. If you added a quarter of the quart bottle of new brake fluid, it's certain that it's all new fluid through that line.
 
atikovi said: Yes of course it pulls air past the bleeder screw threads, but so what. You know when you're done with that wheel when you see the fluid coming out turn from dark to clear so you know all the fluid in that line is new fluid. Ok, if the old fluid was clean as well, then you can gauge it by the amount the level drops in the master cylinder. If you added a quarter of the quart bottle of new brake fluid, it's certain that it's all new fluid through that line.

I am not saying that it can't be done with vacuum. It sounds like you are using a powered vacuum device that maintains continuous vacuum. I do think that continuous vacuum would work better if you want to use the vacuum method. I personally did not feel confident that I could maintain consistent vacuum using a Mityvac device as a vacuum source which is the OP's original question. I prefer the use of a Motive pressure Bleeder.
 
I personally did not feel confident that I could maintain consistent vacuum using a Mityvac device as a vacuum source
What's the problem with that? Why would you need constant vacuum? Even with my pneumatic vacuum bleeder, I remove the hose from the bleeder when finished with that wheel and let it gravity bleed for 10-20 seconds until there is a solid drip coming out.
 
To auto-fill I just stand a bottle of brake fluid upside down in the reservoir. It maintains the lever where the tip of the bottle is. It has been done that way for decades and is even in my 1950 Chevy truck manual.
 

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