Bleeding brakes

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The first one just has too small a container. The best way is with a 2nd person. Many shops even with professional brake bleeding tools use a 2nd person. The pressure developed by a person with his foot on the brake is substantial. You can also gravity bleed brakes. Its slower but works. I would hit any brake fittings you intend to unscrew with PB Blaster a day ahead and then just before.
 
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Originally Posted By: Donald
The first one just has too small a container. The best way is with a 2nd person. Many shops even with professional brake bleeding tools use a 2nd person. The pressure developed by a person with his foot on the brake is substantial. You can also gravity bleed brakes. Its slower but works. I would hit any brake fittings you intend to unscrew with PB Blaster a day ahead and then just before.
Agree. 9 times out of 10 when people have a brake bleeding problem, the cause is the Gadget they use to try and make the job easier. ie. Vacuum pumps sucking air. they have gone through a quart of brake fluid and they still have air bubbles whistle Old school bleeding: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TGRdK_kQ8wQ
 
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I own both of those, but I have not used the mighty vac for bleeding brakes. If you are doing a brake job, might as well run enough brake fluid through it to give it a good flush. The brake bleeder is great for sucking the master cyl fluid out, so you can start with fresh. The problem I find with the brake fluid bleeder is that it sucks so much air from around the bleeder threads, you really don't get a good "pull" on the fluid. I usually just bleed them with the two person method, which is quicker. Check and keep checking and topping off the master cylinder, DO NOT LET IT GET TO LOW while bleeding. You might use a quart and a half for a good flush.
 
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I have the mityvac and it works great. I use the small conical adapter and I never have a problem.
 
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Get some speedbleeders. They make life so much simpler and easier when bleeding brakes by yourself. Easy as can be to install, inexpensive, and they work great.
 

wallyuwl

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Ended up getting this: http://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-Po...e+brake+bleeder There was one used through Amazon Marketplace for $24 in very good rated condition. Also got one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W7K588/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1 Free shipping with Amazon Prime, will arrive Sunday (yup, two days, not two business days). I'm going to get some new Valvoline synthetic (blue bottle) fluid. However, just in case I'm in the middle of the job and 32 oz. isn't enough, can I finish the job with some Valvoline Synpower synthetic fluid that I have from about six or seven years ago? Or is that too old to use?
 
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Originally Posted By: wallyuwl
I have one of those. Works like a charm!
Originally Posted By: wallyuwl
However, just in case I'm in the middle of the job and 32 oz. isn't enough, can I finish the job with some Valvoline Synpower synthetic fluid that I have from about six or seven years ago? Or is that too old to use?
I wouldn't use it. Buy a small additional bottle if you think you don't have enough.
 
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Originally Posted By: wallyuwl
Ended up getting this: http://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-Po...e+brake+bleeder There was one used through Amazon Marketplace for $24 in very good rated condition. Also got one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W7K588/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1 Free shipping with Amazon Prime, will arrive Sunday (yup, two days, not two business days). I'm going to get some new Valvoline synthetic (blue bottle) fluid. However, just in case I'm in the middle of the job and 32 oz. isn't enough, can I finish the job with some Valvoline Synpower synthetic fluid that I have from about six or seven years ago? Or is that too old to use?
If that cap fits your master cylinder, you will be very happy with that setup.
 

wallyuwl

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Good to know that the one I got is good. The 0108 model is what is supposed to fit late model GM and that is what I ordered and the type of vehicle I have, so should work.
 
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came across following two videos on youtube. I have not personally used this scheme but it does look like it should work as shown.
 
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I use a gravity bleed, or a rig like in the video. The main deal is keep the MC filled so as not to get air into the ABS Bleeder threads can be sealed with a little grease. Gravity bleeds are good to prove that the system is tight.
 
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I believe the key is to keep the bottle at higher elevation than the bleeder screw and of course not letting the MC run dry or to let it drop too low. "NOT to go too aggressive while using the turkey baster method tip" I was not aware of.
 
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Originally Posted By: Nebroch
Why can't I add a small check valve to the hose and use any can without priming? www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminium-Chrome-Fuel-N...m-/191128753846
You can make a very effective Check Valve by adding a short section of surgical rubber tubing to the Jar end of your Bleed tube. Plug the end of the Rubber tube section with a small bolt, then, just above the plug, cut a small slit in the rubber tube Lengthwise. In use, the cut will let fluid out (into the jar) under brake pedal pressure, but close and seal to prevent fluid coming back into the system.
 

wallyuwl

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Originally Posted By: another Todd
If that cap fits your master cylinder, you will be very happy with that setup.
Did the brake job today and bled the brakes as well using this set-up. Worked great. My only complaint is that the tube for the catch bottle was kind of a smoky color and not clear so it was hard to tell when new fluid was coming through. Kept the bottle higher than the bleed screw and no air bubbles.
 
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