Can I run dex6 in my th400.

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The only parts i need are the ring gear and the reaction carrier. The main shaft is solid with no holes. Should i use my sun gear or this new one? It was cheaper to buy this whole gear set then to buy just the ring gear and reaction carrier. I am going to post up the parts i dont need on ebay. Do you want to purchase the parts i dont need clinebarger? mainshaft, sun gear, sun shaft, that other planet assembly and ring gear. I bought another ring gear because this set was supposed to not have the 4 groove ring gear so now i have two 4 groove ring gears. Ill let the stuff go cheap.
 
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I doubt your TH400 Sun Gear Shaft would fit the Late 4L80E Sun Gear as the Broaching is slightly different?

I buy complete cores only & I already have a bunch of those pieces laying around from gear ratio changes.
 
So the roller clutch that came with the planetary set i just bought came apart in shipping and some of the springs that hold the rollers in got crushed. This roller clutch goes in the reaction carrier. Can i use my th400 roller clutch in the 4l80e reaction carrier?
 
No, The "late" 4L80E Lo/Reverse Roller Clutch assembly has "legs/Stand-off's" on it to shim it up to the correct height, If you install the TH400
piece in the late reaction carrier.....The roller clutch will miss the center support & your truck will not move in D3 or D2 from a stop.

Compare the Roller Springs between the 2 Roller Clutches.....If they are the same, Use the springs out of the TH400 RC in the 4L80E RC.

The early 4L80E's have a stamped steel shim under the roller clutch assembly & you can use a TH400 RC along with the shim & maintain proper height.
 
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Originally Posted By: clinebarger
No, The "late" 4L80E Lo/Reverse Roller Clutch assembly has "legs/Stand-off's" on it to shim it up to the correct height, If you install the TH400
piece in the late reaction carrier.....The roller clutch will miss the center support & your truck will not move in D3 or D2 from a stop.

Compare the Roller Springs between the 2 Roller Clutches.....If they are the same, Use the springs out of the TH400 RC in the 4L80E RC.

The early 4L80E's have a stamped steel shim under the roller clutch assembly & you can use a TH400 RC along with the shim & maintain proper height.
The springs are not the same but the roller clutch from the th400 did have the metal spacer below it. Is that what you mean by stamped steel shim? Can i use my th400 roller clutch and the spacer?


 
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That's a early ('91-'96) 4L80E roller clutch, Though '90-'95 3L80 (TH400) also used that style......Yes, You can use your existing roller clutch & spacer it the "late" 4L80E reaction carrier.

Man, Your TH400 is a mixed bag of parts! Check the Center Support for a Bleed Orifice, It bleeds air from behind the Intermediate Piston. Some early TH400 supports didn't have the bleed. It's located on the back side at the 12:00 O' Clock position.

Let me know if you need technical assistance on the 4 end-play set locations.
 
So reading ron session th400 book it says that the sealing ring for the accumulator should have no gap where the two ends butt together when the sealing ring is in the acuumulator bore. Both the brand new sealing ring and the old sealing ring have .010" gap where the ring butts together. Is that ok?




Also it The book says that when the ring is on the accumulator it should have a side gap of .005". My side gap is .0015". The ring does spin freely on the accumulator though. Would the ring get stuck on the accumulator once the ring heats up and expands from the heat of the transmission? The old ring also had a .0015" side gap. Should i sand the new ring down so i have .005" side gap?
 
It's not a big deal, Teflon sealing ring kit's are available in scarf cut & solid versions. Gaps in iron sealing rings are just the nature of that type of sealing ring....What exactly does Ron Session say to do about this issue?
 
I'll have to check the book again tomorrow but I think it said the ring gap could mean the cylinder the ring rides on could be worn to a larger diameter. That would mean I would have to buy a new valve body to get a cylinder that's not worn. Although the cylinder now looks good. No ring ridge or anything. What about the side gap?
 
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These specs sound made-up, They aren't piston rings that see elevated temperatures.....As long as the ring turns freely in it's land, Run it!

If your concerned about this....Buy PTFE sealing rings, Though you will be OK with Cast rings!
 
So i recently bought a bushing kit. I am replacing the bushing that goes on the output shaft that the rear ring gear rides on. I received two different bushings for this application. One is a narrow bushing and one is a wide bushing. Is there any downside to using the wide bushing. It seems like it would allow more of the rear ring gear bearing surface to ride on the bushing which seems better to me? The wide bushing says its for 64-74 year transmission and the narrow bushing is for 75 on.
https://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/TH4...0-000046633.htm
https://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/TH4...0-00046633a.htm


 
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If the output shaft is bored deep enough......Use the wider bushing. You do not want the bushing to hit the Torrington Race, You usually have to set the bushing slightly below the chamfer in the output shaft.

Pictures showing that there may not be enough room for the wider bushing on later model outputs......
F4URA1M.jpg


ei0l60S.jpg
 
Ok thanks. Yes I'll check and see if I have enough clearance to put the wide bushing into the output shaft leaving room for the Torrington bearing not to hit the bushing.
 
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Just a heads up. Not sure if you’re aware but you need to soak the friction disks in ATF for at least an hour if you don’t want the trans to explode.
 
Originally Posted By: Hemispheres
Just a heads up. Not sure if you’re aware but you need to soak the friction disks in ATF for at least an hour if you don’t want the trans to explode.


While soaking them in ATF is a sound practice & I do it as well because that's how I was taught, However.....Most transmissions get built with dry frictions at the factory & a lot of builder do not soak frictions.

It's one of those wives tales that will never die. But I will soak frictions for the rest of my building days.
We can also argue that pre-filling converters is mandatory......But it's not!
 
So i was installing the planetary gear set up to the center support and i noticed one of the case lugs broke off. I dont know if i broke it or if it was almost ready to fall off. What should i do? I hope i dont need a new case.
 
On the plus side i did get the rear case bushing installed and i was able to use the wider bushing for the rear ring gear.

 
Originally Posted By: Hemispheres
Just a heads up. Not sure if you’re aware but you need to soak the friction disks in ATF for at least an hour if you don’t want the trans to explode.
Thanks. I was aware of that.
 
Originally Posted By: joegreen
So i was installing the planetary gear set up to the center support and i noticed one of the case lugs broke off. I dont know if i broke it or if it was almost ready to fall off. What should i do? I hope i dont need a new case.


I wouldn't worry about that....Plenty of lugs left!!
 
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