Can group III/Hydrocracked make your engine leak?

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Can group III synthetics, or hydrocracked oils, like quaker state synthetic, castrol syntec, pennzoil platinum, make your engine leak, liek a synthetic could?
I used to run mobil 1 53 w0 year round, up until 2 or 3 years ago, as one day after na oil change, foudn a huge puddle of fresh oil form the rear main. The engine has around 120,000 miles on it. SO!!! Wanting to know, if group III's/Hydrocrakces can/will cause the same thing?
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OK cool... Thanks Merkva
so! what oils classify as goup III synthetics? NAPA sytnhetinc? Supertech? Citgo? Quaker state? Ay others ileft out?
 
Castrol Syntec ( Excluding German Castrol), Valvoline Synpower (although it's suspected that their 5W-20, 5W-30 and 20W-50 contains elements of Group IV), Valvoline Maxlife Full Synthetic ( although might contain some elements of Group IV), Chevron/Havoline Full Synthetic, Shell Full Synthetic, Wal-Mart's SuperTech, TropArtic Full Synthetic, Motorcraft Full Synthetic, Kendall Full Synthetic, Union 76 Full Synthetic, Quaker State Full Synthetic, Pennzoil Platinum,
 
With the proper additives the Group IV oils should perform as good if not better than the GroupIII products.
 
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Can group III synthetics, or hydrocracked oils, like quaker state synthetic, castrol syntec, pennzoil platinum, make your engine leak, liek a synthetic could?




I don't want to stir the pot, pi$$ into the wind, awaken the junkyard dog or otherwise rake the muck, but this is a very flawed question. I have been using Amsoil for well over 10 years in a variety of vehicles, machines, engines, etc and not ONE has ever, I mean NEVER leaked a drop of oil. I just don't bite the bait of "synthetics cause leaks".

BTW a well formulated Group III won't cause leaks either. So there!!!
 
There is no proof that Mobil 1 is not group IV. There is a lot of evidence that it is group IV even though it may have SOME group III in it.... I don't find the humor in the unfounded rumors that it is strickly a group III now like PP, it is not.......
 
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There is no proof that Mobil 1 is not group IV. There is a lot of evidence that it is group IV...



I've seen no such evidence, much less proof. Even Mobil's carefully worded marketing jargon says no more than some group IV is included in some of their M1 oils. In contrast, there has been evidence posted here that at least some varieties of M1 are primarily group III. Perhaps someone can start another thread presenting evidence that M1 is group IV.
 
if you have leaks its bc your seals are going bad or faulty and should be replaced anyway... whether the oil is group 3, 4, or 5 it shouldnt matter.
 
I understand that everyone will jump on me, but I am not trying to pot stir.

Also, I understand that my personal example is a sample size of ONE, and that just because it happened to me, doesnt mean it applies to everyone.

But here is my story.

I had a 98 chevy lumina with the 3.1 and 100,000 miles of Mobil 1 5W-30. I decided to try some german castrol 0W-30 because it happened to be on sale. About 1,000 miles into the OCI i looked under the engine. There was "wettness" and oil everywhere. And it looked like it had been leaking from everything.

I dumped the 0w-30 and switched back to M1 5w-30, and the leaking and wetness slowly went away.

have a good one.
 
No oil designed and formulated for automotive use will cause seal damage!!!!!!! I wish this rumor would die since it is about 30+ year's old!!! For crying out load if engine flush's and B12 Chemtool and such do not cuase seal's to leak their is nothing in fully formulated motor oil that will!!! That is about like someone saying Bacon will give you a heart attack!!!! It is moronic!!! Seeing how almost no oil's aproved for use in modern automobiles has any group I in it I would say that most people are $h!t out of luck since almost everything has group II+ and group III in sizeable quantities with either ester's,pao's or AN's in the mix too!!! I guess all the car's on their onthe road are all going to start leaking!!!!

Seal's do not last forever when you stop and think about it the amzeing thing is how long front and rear main seals do last!!!!

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Can group III synthetics, or hydrocracked oils, like quaker state synthetic, castrol syntec, pennzoil platinum, make your engine leak, liek a synthetic could?




I don't want to stir the pot, pi$$ into the wind, awaken the junkyard dog or otherwise rake the muck, but this is a very flawed question. I have been using Amsoil for well over 10 years in a variety of vehicles, machines, engines, etc and not ONE has ever, I mean NEVER leaked a drop of oil. I just don't bite the bait of "synthetics cause leaks".

BTW a well formulated Group III won't cause leaks either. So there!!!




My 13 year old Integra that used a life-time of Dino at 3-6k intervals (mostly 5k/6 month) didn't leak a drop after I switched it to Amsoil
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Also slowly switching over to Amsoil ATF (on my 2nd drain/refill) and no leaks there either.
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I running QS Q-Torque 10W40 (GrpIII) right now in a leak prone 911 at 185K miles. No substantial leaking, like the GTX 20W50.

Just before this I had Valvoline SynPower 20W50 in which MSDS said all PAO and it leaked a LOT.
 
Okay okay lol i didn't mean to imply synthetics cause leaks... sorry
What i was getting at, was, i had my rear main seal replaced 3 years ago. MY engine dosnt leak oil with dino, but has done it, aeven after the seal replacement . SO! I learned for my car/application, full synthetics will clean the seals out and leak. Dino oils will not. But as for hydrocracked oils.... i dont know what to expect,
any ideas?
 
Conventional oils treat seals better than real synthetic oils. Part of why Auto-Rx helps seals because it stops the war between oil, additives and contaminates at least for a little while, by getting in the way. If you have a seal with a small leak the first thing to do is break the cycle of contamination and the lubrication additives that help or hinder the process. You might want to consider a GII or GIII oil after that or at least a different oil but don't expect a miracle. Adding additives that advertise a fix is just stepping back into the problem again.

Sorry about the jab at Mobil 1, couldn't resist. It does not matter what's in the bottle, it's just an good average oil, nothing special. No flames, please. If you want to pay the price it's a good oil, but there are other choices for less money.

By the way, does anyone want a pig?
 
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