Camry Broke Down

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Originally Posted by Imp4
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by madRiver
Originally Posted by Jarlaxle
Timing belts are evil.


However if this post were about a timing chain the car would be instant junk.

Impossible. It is Toyota. If this happened to ANY other car, it would be junk, timing chain or belt, it is irrelevant.
Timing chain or tensioner on Toyota: it happens
On any other car (especially European): junk.

So you're hating on the fact that not enough people are hating on this guy's car make??
First world problem if I've ever heard of one...

No, I am stating how BITOG operates. Timing belt breakdown happens due to neglect.
 
Well my lady's Camry will be due for a timing belt change coming up.. and I showed her your post about what happened... Just a real world reminder to her that she would be stranded if it goes out on her.
 
Originally Posted by Cdn17Sport6MT
That range of years ('97 - 2001?) for the Camry (for the four cylinder, at least - and I don't know if the V6, by comparison, has a timing belt) - is a non-interference engine. If the timing belt breaks the engine should simply spin-down with impunity, i.e. no valve / piston contact (presuming there is no carbon buildup, etc).

I have 225,000 km (~140,000 miles) on my '99 Camry - and I think it is the original belt.

Apparently, the drill is to view the o-ring for the oil pump, see if it is leaking, check for camshaft and crankshaft seal leakage, and pre-emptively change the water pump while you're in there. Rock Auto (among others) has an Aisin water pump based kit available, comprising timing belt, possibly idler (?), oil pump o ring, and water pump.

They say that the timing belt change is not a big issue, but I do know that if the camshaft sprocket has to come off due to a leak, there is much "joy" in loosening it. Big wrench on the hex flats of the intake (?) camshaft with a companion wrench on the fastener for the timing belt sprocket. Re the crankshaft nut, an electric or pneumatic "percussion" ratchet is needed... or some folks use the starter and a wrench... up against the concrete floor ????

Seal removal has to also be done with a modicum of care so as not to damage seal surfaces on the shaft(s) and same, the bore for the OD of the seal. Some use (several?) sheet metal screws into the rubber of the seal, and a cat's paw to lever out the seal.

Oh joy...

At this age I'd just do the o-ring on the oil pump automatically. Dunno about the other seals but mine was broken in several spots on that o-ring, and forced me into doing the job suddenly as it was a pretty good sized leak it formed.

Luckily the crankshaft bolt zipped right off with the airgun. Not a lot of space for getting the bracket under the alternator (?) out but the rest wasn't too bad, other than puking PS fluid (didn't drain enough I guess). Next time I'll hit up those two seals and find out what kind of fun they are.
 
Originally Posted by Jarlaxle
Originally Posted by madRiver
Originally Posted by Jarlaxle
Timing belts are evil.


However if this post were about a timing chain the car would be instant junk.


If it were a timing chain, it wouldn't be an issue!


Many vehicles with timing chains have issues. The thread right next to this one is about a BMW V8 with timing chain problems.

For myself, I've had several cars with belts and all three of our current vehicles have belts. I don't have a big preference either way -- a weekend job with $100-$200 in parts every 100k miles is no big deal to me.

One of the cars I had with a chain (Duratec 3.0 in a Mazda MPV) had noisy chains at startup and leaked around the timing cover.
 
Originally Posted by brages
Originally Posted by Jarlaxle
Originally Posted by madRiver
Originally Posted by Jarlaxle
Timing belts are evil.


However if this post were about a timing chain the car would be instant junk.


If it were a timing chain, it wouldn't be an issue!


Many vehicles with timing chains have issues. The thread right next to this one is about a BMW V8 with timing chain problems.

For myself, I've had several cars with belts and all three of our current vehicles have belts. I don't have a big preference either way -- a weekend job with $100-$200 in parts every 100k miles is no big deal to me.

One of the cars I had with a chain (Duratec 3.0 in a Mazda MPV) had noisy chains at startup and leaked around the timing cover.

Actually that engine of all issues it has, has rock solid timing chain. That particular engine probably had chain issue due to some other issue that was neglected (and there are a lot to choose from on that N63 engine).
 
For me, I don't hate timing belts. Yes, more maintenance, but my Camry is a non-interference engine. Spins down easy, no damage. Timing belts are quiet, they do not tend to wear out the belt sprockets... Timing chains, by comparison - when you DO replace the chain, you better replace all of the sprockets (as hooked sprocket teeth damage a new chain).

I REALLy love my '99 Camry CE 5 speed, total stripper. Here in Vancouver Canada I can get away (in this old car) with no A/C. You wouldn't believe how much underhood space there is. I can STEP into the engine compartment on that car.

Setting valves is a bit of a PITA... but I do not have to lift out camshafts to change buckets like you do in the Corolla...
 
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I finally got around to changing the timing belt on the GF's 2000 Camry. I used an Aisin kit that included a water pump. The old belt had around
161,500 miles and really looked fine, even though it was slapping around and hitting the timing belt cover, and had a bunch of caked up oil on parts of it. It was a Toyota branded belt that was made in USA. Cleaning the oil mess from (hopefully) a leak from the oil pump housing gasket, which was broken and brittle, just like the valve cover gasket was. I did not change the camshaft, crankshaft, or oil pump shaft seals. Hopefully, I will not regret that, but I didn't have any long M6 bolts with my pulley puller set, otherwise I would have pulled the crankshaft sprocket so that I could clean it better. There was so much caked oil there I wonder how the crankshaft position sensor managed to work (I know it's magnetic, and not magnetic stuff shouldn't make a difference, but still!!!).

Other than the obvious bad gasket on the oil pump housing, the only other part from that was clearly worn was one of the timing belt tensioners (the one with the spring), which had a noticable amount of play and IMO would have been the first part to fail.

I worked on this for 4 consecutive days on this, but as per my usual, at least half my time was spent cleaning stuff. The car idled low at first, making me think for a while that I was off by a tooth on the timing, but after driving for a while, it started idling perfect again. Had to disconnect the battery and remove alternator, and kept battery on a Battery Tender Jr the whole time.

Of course while test driving it, one of the dash lights burned out. Fortunately, they aren't too bad to replace.
 
The pictures tell me it was some crappy belt - the belt when removed from my Toyo OEM at 140K was in pristine condition.
The belt is all worn out - you just got lucky it didn'r destroy the engine.
 
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Originally Posted by MaximaGuy

The belt is all worn out - you just got lucky it didn'r destroy the engine.

It's a 5S-FE which is non-interference.
 
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