C&P Honda Factory Installed Filter

How come you’re using restore and protect on a brand new engine? OE filter did its job maybe run another shorter oci with neodymium mags
Not speaking for the OP but I’d imagine R&P from new would guarantee clean pistons for the life of the vehicle. No other OTS oil can claim that and short oci’s don’t reduce piston deposits unlike some believe.
 
That's the OEM filter? Woof.......

That's a lot of metal in those pleats, not sure if it's normal or not for that engine. I can tell you in the first oil change on my Wifes CX-5, there was almost nothing. I was suprised at how little there was.

Not a bad call on the Restore and Protect oil. A lot of people focus on the "restore" and don't realize there is a "protect" part also. Don't be surprised if you get some posts saying "Why are you using R&P on a new engine..." LOL
 
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That's the OEM filter? Woof.......

That's a lot of metal in those pleats, not sure if it's normal or not for that engine. I can tell you in the first oil change on my Wifes CX-5, there was almost nothing. I was suprised at how little there was.

Not a bad call on the Restore and Protect oil. A lot of people focus on the "restore" and don't realize there is a "protect" part also. Dont be surprised if you get some posts saying "Why are you using R&P on a new engine..." LOL
All oil will protect.
 
All oil will protect.
Not necessarily piston ring deposits. That's the point. R&P seems to do a better job at that, which makes it a compelling reason to use it at the start of a vehicles life. I have personally used it in older vehicles, but may switch to it in all my vehicles once my stash is gone. It's effectiveness does not appear to be anecdotal.
 
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Not necessarily piston ring deposits. That's the point. R&P seems to do a better job at that, which makes it a compelling reason to use it at the start of a vehicles life. I have personally used it in older vehicles, but may switch to it in all my vehicles once my stash is gone. Its effectiveness does not appear to be anecdotal.
If it makes your heart sing run it.
 
As an aside, oil filter location excellent on 3.5L isn't it? /s

Thanks for c&p.
Could be better could be worse.

With the “oil deflector tool” I actually prefer it over a “normal” vertical mounted filter.
 
How come you’re using restore and protect on a brand new engine? OE filter did its job maybe run another shorter oci with neodymium mags
Why not VRP?

I might just pull the filter in 2k miles and see how it looks and go from there.
 
Why not VRP?

I might just pull the filter in 2k miles and see how it looks and go from there.
It’s my ignorance of curiosity. Mind perceives restore and protect same as high mileage oil. Only be used if ya think there’s problems. I just can’t get myself to be a marketing influenced buyer.
 
Could be better could be worse.

With the “oil deflector tool” I actually prefer it over a “normal” vertical mounted filter.
My preference if possible is to always use a cap/cup style oil filter wrench (fitted or adjustable type) for filter removal. A no go on the 3.5L and I won't buy any special deflector tool. Just me. Wrap the the frame area under the filter with Glad Seal and Protect wrap and use the cut bottom of a milk jug to direct the oil coming off the filter to a drain pan. Learned about Seal and Protect trick from a youtube. And I much prefer Honda standard vertical mount where cap wrench useable, somewhat less so the horizontal mount, but cap wrench can be used. No frame obstruction. But yeah, could be worse (like the Ranger 'imo') could be better.
 
My preference if possible is to always use a cap/cup style oil filter wrench (fitted or adjustable type) for filter removal. A no go on the 3.5L and I won't buy any special deflector tool. Just me. Wrap the the frame area under the filter with Glad Seal and Protect wrap and use the cut bottom of a milk jug to direct the oil coming off the filter to a drain pan. Learned about Seal and Protect trick from a youtube. And I much prefer Honda standard vertical mount where cap wrench useable, somewhat less so the horizontal mount, but cap wrench can be used. No frame obstruction. But yeah, could be worse (like the Ranger 'imo') could be better.
Is this what you mean by “cup style” wrench? It’s what used.

IMG_0185.webp
 
Ouch!! I’d keep cutting the filters open to see how much metal is showing. But I’d also do a UOA at @10k. This 3.5 will probably settle in.
 
Is this what you mean by “cup style” wrench? It’s what used.

View attachment 295500
Like that, yes. And an ah ha moment here. Looking at a youtube I see for the 4th gen 3.5L has changed the location and orientation of the oil filter on the 3.5L, with improvement. The 3rd gen 3.5L much different, sits vertical above front frame. As you note cap wrench now useable which is nice. Gone from quite awkward and messy with 3rd gen to tolerable now. Shouldn't have assumed the same, but I learned something which is good.
 
Ouch!! I’d keep cutting the filters open to see how much metal is showing. But I’d also do a UOA at @10k. This 3.5 will probably settle in.
A Blackstone type UOA won't really help detect a high level of abnormal damage or wear. Here's an example in link below. The best way is to continue monitoring the debris in the oil filter.

 
Like that, yes. And an ah ha moment here. Looking at a youtube I see for the 4th gen 3.5L has changed the location and orientation of the oil filter on the 3.5L, with improvement. The 3rd gen 3.5L much different, sits vertical above front frame. As you note cap wrench now useable which is nice. Gone from quite awkward and messy with 3rd gen to tolerable now. Shouldn't have assumed the same, but I learned something which is good.
Ya the 4th gen Pilot is really quite nice for a DIY oil change. I installed a Fumoto valve so from here on out I can have the sump and the oil filter drain directly into an old jug with that “deflector” tool. Should be pretty slick and clean.
 
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