bypasss restrictor question!

[Gary Allan]

The only issue that I can think of is if you used any bypass filter and were to discharge into a non-pressurized location without a restrictor. These can be removed if you're discharging into a pressurized environment.

There appear to be no options ..or replacement orifices on the Oil Guard parts sheet.

btw-if you're dead set against a tp filter (MG/Frantz) and are willing to take up more room, you can save a good bit of money with DOE filters and canisters. A lifetime of 1um filters can be had for about $70 and the system can be put together for around $175-$200.

 

[oil&coffee]

what is a DOE filter?? any links??


ps: a year ago I thought the TP filters was a joke! Now I see it must not be - the one question I had is the thin sheets coming apart and going places thet should not.. I know if they did it would most likely end up being micon size bits and pieces.. but the idea of TP ?? gee - I have a $35,000 truck - not a go-cart!

 

[Gary Allan]

They work very well. The only short coming is the length of service. You can get maybe 3k out of them ..but the change is quick ..and dirt cheap. No worries about it falling apart. If you're paranoid ..just plumb a cheap ff filter in line with it. There are plenty here that use them. I don't ..although I have a vintage Frantz sitting somewhere.

TP is about the finest filtering you can get at a reasonable cost. Anything commercially made that does as good a job is a fortune.

Be assured ...TP is widely used here and there's nothing "funny" about it. Some have even rigged off line and gravity fed systems to clean drain oil.


Anyway, DOE means "double open end" filters. You see them most commonly on water filters. They're cotton wound ..just like the Oil Guard filters. They're just long and skinny instead of short and fat. They also aren't propriatary ..and usually cheaper ..as are the housings. They too tend to be long and skinny as opposed to short and stout.

I owe my experience to two fellow members. Tim Schultz and Mel (Filter Guy). Time led me by the hand at figuring out what fitlers to get for my PALL canister ..and Mel connected me to a low cost supplier that would crank out a custom diameter filter without undue costs.


Here's what they look like:

You just get the kind that have stainless steel cores. It's a decent balance of filtration/costs/longevity.

TP is still about the best bang for the buck if you can handle doing around 3k changes. Very ..very hard to beat from a $$$ standpoint.

 

[oil&coffee]

with TP - how much oil do you lose when changing out! 1/2 quart ??

as for the DOE - point me to a good one.. I can then find more...

 

[Gary Allan]

You lose somewhere between a 1/2 and 1 quart. If it can drain a bit, less.

For canisters, look Page 335 and read the top of page 337.

Although the prices are fairly reasonable at McMaster, there are other sources that can do much better. I'm unsure how long a 20" 2x20 1um filter would work in a diesel, but in a gasoline setup it was estimated at around 25k.

Here's how big the 20" canister is (my PALL version). You should have this type of room in your Ram

 

[oil&coffee]

Gee!

Now looks like old time vegetable oil conversion stuff!

Now the real questions - first I think a 10 inch would work.. but questions are:

the oilguard has a flow rate of .75 to 1.5 quart a minute.. what size of restriction do you use on ports to slow it down.. guess I could find out the pressure drop across the ports and output flow with a guage..

anyone else using this? anyone on a diesel?? who here has the most knowledge of this setup?? I know you typed Filter Guy!

insert - I looked up Mcmaster stuff and on the 10 inch filter a high load 4 1/2 dia element found on page 337 bottom half (right) is $15 a piece #44435K36 (same $$ as oilguard) BUT maybe 2x filter media per element - as it is 10 inches long.

the low load 2 1/2 dia media #44435K36 is $5.15.
both 1 micron filtering..

** did you get your custom made?? what dia and cost $$$..

thanks

[ June 04, 2006, 09:08 PM: Message edited by: oil&coffee ]

 

[oil&coffee]

I "think" i remeber reading about restrictor issues on bypass filters somewhere last year.. What I mean is if you use the wrong dia restrictor in some cases it can do harm.. ie: cause flowing problems in the rest of the system??? Yes I do remember reading posible isues - but what issues and where??

anyway - thinking of oilguard on a 2004.5 dodge 2500.. any comments??

 

[Gary Allan]

My canister is 4" I.D. ...so Mel hooked me up with a fitler company that made 3.5"X20" filters for about $60/8 (one case). If I got the standard 2x20" ..then there would be more to the case ..and maybe a little more for the core material. So you might get 18 2"

I imagine the more work they have to do to them, the more it costs. I also imagine that most of it is automated ...

I needed no restriction since I returned to a pressurized environment. I used a sandwich adapter. It kept a continuous 2psi differential across the filter.

With a 2" filter in mine (being 20+" long) it added about 4.5 quarts to my total sump. I installed sprung check valves to contain it in the canister. Othewise I'd have almost 10 quarts in the sump. I could hear my HLAs "farting" out the air from the filter. If I had to prime it from dry again, I would fill the canister and let it soak for a while to reduce this effect.

I imagine, if it's like mine, that you can just put a circular piece of teflon or some other high temp material and perhaps back it with a large washer before you bushing it down to whatever your line size is ...depending on how you hook it up. If I was draining this back to an zero pressure locaton, I do have some fine chemical metering valves. They're rather expensive if you didn't get them at salvage like I did (plant was closing).

Mine don't look like that, as I recall. Page 401 at McMaster.

 

[Louie's gone fishing]

Gary, what kind of uoa's to you get with this kind of setup?

And for the restrictor, I see some on say a Frantz that is on the exit of the filter, and some on the input to the filter. Is there any theory reguarding the placement?

 

[Gary Allan]

I never ran a UOA on my minivan. I did too much oil swapping and filter testing

Amsoil uses a small restrictor (like .030+/-) ..so their's is on the outlet so that it doesn't get clogged by a random particle or get varnished shut (clean oil should keep it open). Otherwise, unless you've got a very big bypass filter (as Ralph pointed out) where it will just take so much oil to fill that it will not allow your oil pump to produce pressure or you'll run your sump dry (like an OEM FL750) ..then there's not a whole lot of difference.

If you put it on the inlet ..the tp (or other fitler) will only see very slight pressure. Depending on the way you run it ..the seem (gasket/clamp/etc.) will either see line pressure or no pressure.

Either way should work. The regular restrictor shouldn't get clogged like an Amsoil would. If it does ..you've got more serious issues