bypass on my transmission project.

zydawn · Dec 3, 2006

I have read heaps of post regarding this but would just like to run it by you guys before I do it just to be sure.
I have a permacool remote adapter that I was going to use a baldwin b252
my transmission currently has a cooler on it and I was thinking of running it in series after the cooler to catch any debri trapped inside.
the bypass valve is listed as being 20 psi so it will only come on if the difference between the in and out of the filter is more than 20 regardless what the overall pressure is.
I realise this is not a true bypass setup but would it work without reducing my oil pressure.
or should I use a t section with a very small hole and dump it back into the sump .
if I did it the second way would there be any benefit in using this type of filter or would a non bypass (cheaper) filter be fine.
the permacool diagram does suggest to run it in series and is allot less work but using a t section seems it would do a better job.
again this is for the transmission so I'm not to sure how many impurities would be floating about.

Gary Allan · Dec 4, 2006

Okay. No worries about any pressure drops etc...it will be transparent to the flow.

That's a Ford filter spec'd for transmissions. Save you cash and get any size Ford filter (this filter does have a very high burst strength rating). Your Baldwin x'ref'd to a Wix is rated for 28um. Not the greatest .. but not bad. I don't know your availability down under ..but you can save cash in the future. The advantage to a full flow inline is that if any converter material decides to dislodge ..it's caught by the full flow. If you want to add a bypass, just plumb across the cooling lines (in to out) as close to the trans as possible. You surely drop something across the cooler circuit to provide flow. You can also put a permacool sandwich on the full flow mount ..but will probably have to drill a hole in it to prevent the poppet valve from buzzing.

zydawn · Dec 4, 2006

thanks Gary
did I mention what a great site this is
only realised last night that when I do a search it defaults to 1 week.
now I do searches dating back much further so much more info.

Gary Allan · Dec 4, 2006

Well, it's not too busy now. Ask away ..at this point the search has so many cross used terms that it's a bit hard to use as a divining rod to the water of knowledge

Quickbeam · Dec 4, 2006

Fwiw I ran a PureOne in series with my cooler for clean up before putting on a Trasko. I know it wasn't in bypass because I cut it open and disabled the BPV then tig welded it back together. Pressure drop across the filter was the same before and after. The flow with and without the filter was close as measured by an inline rotameter. Even after a week of cleanup on the PureOne the Trasko still cleaned it up further. I was surprised at how dirty the element was when I checked it 1000 miles later.

Gary Allan · Dec 5, 2006

If you need a 3/4-16 thread 2.8+/-/2.4+/- gasket filter without a bypass ...pick up a 51410 Wix/ 1410 NAPA.

It's easier then dismantling a filter and putting it back together again

The cheapest filter mount that I've found is on Northern Tool's site. It's a hydraulic design. I think it uses 1-12 thread filters. They can be had in very fine micron ratings. The head has its own built in bypass. Actually, Schultz, a PALL engineer and co-author of Grease's filter study, turned me on to this source.

He has a 3um beta 1000 filter on his with a fancy differential pressure switch to allow bypass. He has it rigged to turn a light on in the dash to tell him when it's in bypass. In some ungodly number of miles he's never had the light turn on.

Quickbeam · Dec 5, 2006

Yeah, I know. I also could've used one of the Manns I have for my other car with 36 psi bypass ratings but it was fun to do. Hey, I was going going to install a small LVDT I had lying around on the bypass valve while I had the PureOne open before I came to my senses

zydawn · Dec 5, 2006

"He has it rigged to turn a light on in the dash to tell him when it's in bypass. In some ungodly number of miles he's never had the light turn on."

I like this.
any more details?

SWHeat · Dec 5, 2006

Check out this thread. Enough information to make your head spin. A real automotive artist.

Schultz and his ingenuity

Gary Allan · Dec 5, 2006

Quote:

"He has it rigged to turn a light on in the dash to tell him when it's in bypass. In some ungodly number of miles he's never had the light turn on."

I like this.
any more details?

You can find similar filter mounts that Schultz refers to from Donaldson.

B - Thread Size (Inches): 1 1/2-16
C - Length (Inches): 10.66
D - Gasket OD (Inches): 5.05
E - Gasket ID (Inches): 4.71
Product Type Description: HYDRAULIC SPIN-ON
Primary Application: PALL HC7500SUS8H,
Primary Application 2: HC7500SUK8H, DCI HBK05 ASSY
Media Type: Synthetic
Efficiency Beta 2 (Micron): 2
Efficiency Beta 20 (Micron): 7
Efficiency Beta 75 (Micron): 10
Application Note: SYNTEQ Media #4

Probably not quite up to Schultz's level of filtration ..but expensive enough to be in the ball park.

RJCorazza · Dec 5, 2006

I put a similar Donaldson hydraulic filter on my diesel tractor last year. The filter (P167832) was b1000=6u, and they still advertised the 3u absolute (which I think is like 97% ?).
Picked up the head and 6 (huge) filters for next to nothing on EBay!

unDummy · Dec 5, 2006

Use any 3/4" filter size(bigger is better).
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...part=1&vc=1

Baldwin B7311-MPG
Trasko combination
Stilko TP

Using the 3/4" full flow mount for a transmission is excellent. And, it is a cheap alternative to bypass filter kits, replacement elements, and plumbing(T-off and ATF pan hole punch for the return).
A 3/4" full flow allows use to size the filter for underhood space. Toyota/Ford uses a bunch of 3/4" filter sizes so that you can pick one that fits the available space you have.
Run it simply inline and use the correct ID hose that matches what your transmission has.
The Permacool/transdapt/B&M filter DO run in series before or after the cooler. It is designed to be run in series. There is no fear for flow or PSI drop.
Do NOT T-off a full flow filter. Some transmission put cooled ATF back to work and don't directly dump to the pan.

96 Cherokee · Dec 6, 2006

Quote:

And, it is a cheap alternative to bypass filter kits, replacement elements, and plumbing(T-off and ATF pan hole punch for the return).

unDummy,
I was thinking about "T"ing off one of the cooler lines and running the return line back to the pan. Seems relatively cheap to me. Is this a bad idea? I have sent an e-mail to Ralph Woods about this but have not heard back from him yet.

SWHeat · Dec 6, 2006

Quote:

Use any 3/4" filter size(bigger is better).
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...part=1&vc=1

Baldwin B7311-MPG
Trasko combination
Stilko TP

Using the 3/4" full flow mount for a transmission is excellent. And, it is a cheap alternative to bypass filter kits, replacement elements, and plumbing(T-off and ATF pan hole punch for the return).
A 3/4" full flow allows use to size the filter for underhood space. Toyota/Ford uses a bunch of 3/4" filter sizes so that you can pick one that fits the available space you have.
Run it simply inline and use the correct ID hose that matches what your transmission has.
The Permacool/transdapt/B&M filter DO run in series before or after the cooler. It is designed to be run in series. There is no fear for flow or PSI drop.
Do NOT T-off a full flow filter. Some transmission put cooled ATF back to work and don't directly dump to the pan.

Have you ever used the Baldwin B7311-MPG? I saw it in their spec sheet and thought about it, but it may be too big for the current space I'm running a Baldwin B2-HPG. Do you have any Beta Ratio's for the B7311-MPG handy? How does it compare to the B2-HPG in filtration quality?

After the B2-HPG was finished (I put it on a 25K OCI), I was thinking of getting a Trasko to put in its place as it is already plumbed and ready to go vs. replumbing in a Motor Guard in its place that has the interal bypass (Done by Ralph Wood) that I have not installed yet (it will probably go on my other car when I get around to it). It was such a pain to find a place for the regular filter mount.

I have 10K on the transmission so far with the external filter installed...and the fluid is looking brand new.

Gary Allan · Dec 6, 2006

http://www.baldwinfilters.com/products/0510.pdf

It doesn't give the um spec's ..but gives you the dimensional data

The number xref's in Donaldson to an FL788 equivalent the P550299

A - OD (Inches): 3.66
B - Thread Size (Inches): 3/4 - 16
C - Length (Inches): 6.85
D - Gasket OD (Inches): 2.81
E - Gasket ID (Inches): 2.42
Relief Valve Setting (PSI): 7 - 10
Anti Drain Valve (Y/N): Yes
Product Type Description: LUBE SPIN-ON FULL FLOW
Primary Application: FORD D3HZ6731B, MOTORCRAFT
Primary Application 2: FL788

I imagine the "Maximum Performance Glass" media is superior.

The FL788 xref's to a 51714 WIX

The Ford number D3HZ6731B is a 51773 filter.

unDummy · Dec 6, 2006

I've read somewhere that the 7311-MPG is 6 micron nominal. Bang an email out to Baldwin for specific info. I believe it is just the full synthetic media upsize to the B2-HPG.

T-off is only good for restrictive bypass media and when flow is controlled by an orifice. NEVER T-off your ATF cooler line for a full flow filter dumping to the pan. Sorry, but too many new transmissions reuse that cooler ATF flow and do not dump it directly to the pan.

T-off or parallel flow dedicated bypass filters.
Never T-off a full flow filter. Full flow filters should be run in series always.

mjo · Dec 6, 2006

For my Saturn with the TAAT transmission I tee'd off the temperature sender port (1/8" NPT) and returned to the pan. I use a restrictor that I got as a free sample. I connected the restrictor between the transmission and the tee. It is something close to 1/32" diameter. The pan is located on the top of the transmission and so returning it there was a no-brainer.

Very easy to do and I've had no problems so far.

Gary Allan · Dec 6, 2006

Quote:

I've read somewhere that the 7311-MPG is 6 micron nominal. Bang an email out to Baldwin for specific info. I believe it is just the full synthetic media upsize to the B2-HPG.

T-off is only good for restrictive bypass media and when flow is controlled by an orifice. NEVER T-off your ATF cooler line for a full flow filter dumping to the pan. Sorry, but too many new transmissions reuse that cooler ATF flow and do not dump it directly to the pan.

T-off or parallel flow dedicated bypass filters.
Never T-off a full flow filter. Full flow filters should be run in series always.

Even the older transmission use the cooled fluid. My 30RH (a Mopar 904) uses it for "lubrication". Bathing the rotating parts.

(this isn't for you Undummy

)
Again, just because I like seeing myself in print, you will get enough differential between the inlet and outlet of the cooler lines. Just bridge across them with your dense media of choice and there will be plenty to drive the flow. There is absolutely no need to tap the pan or return anywhere but where it would normally go.

This is a no brainer. You're only altering rubber hoses. Buy a couple of 5/16 brass T's from McMaster-Carr (or your supplier of choice) and a few clamps and throw the cheap Amoil BP80A anywhere you please. The closer the better. The shorter the lines the better. The closer to the trans that you tap in the better. It will have a minimum of whatever pressure drop is present across the entire cooling circuit. That should be enough to push stuff through the .029 restrictor in the BP80 mount. Put an inline fullflow downstream of the "T's" and you're covered every way from Sunday ..without screwing with anything beyond clamps and cheap hose.

bypass on my transmission project.

Similar threads