Bypass oil filters, 96 Chevy S10 4 cyl

[Gearstix]

I've got a 1996 Chevy S10 with a 2.2L and an automatic transmission. (Same engine as the cavalier)
I am currently rebuilding the engine (bought it with a blown motor)
I am going to be building a turbo kit for it hopefully and it will have a bit of internal work done to the engine.
I do drive a decent amount. To drive to and from school, its around 70 kms per day round trip (about 45 miles) five times a week. Thats just straight to school and straight back.
I would like to have a better filtering oil system and possibly get a longer oil change interval, and more oil capacity.
I've read about the Amsoil (I like Amsoil, I run it in my sled, and my go kart) bypass filter, however it seems rather expensive.
Is there any way to do it yourself?
I've seen the remote filter kits from Summit Racing and Jegs, and what not. I've read online you can use two filters (not the remote kit that holds two filters, as the second filter isn't really used, just for oil capacity, at least thats what I read), so you have the aluminum piece that screws onto the motor, a feed line going into the remote block, through the filter, and then to the outlet. The outlet from filter one goes into the inlet of filter two, and then the outlet goes back to the aluminum piece and into the motor. This would make it run the oil through two filters.
Would this work? Would it give me longer oil change intervals? Would it kill my oil pump? (dont forget the turbo too)
I've seen the Amsoil bypass filter installed online on a 2.2 Cavalier... I just can't bear to spend that much money.

 

[stenerson]

The guys here might have good info for ya. Bypass forum I'm also curious about this. Would like to install one in my pickup truck.

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:
I've seen the remote filter kits from Summit Racing and Jegs, and what not. I've read online you can use two filters (not the remote kit that holds two filters, as the second filter isn't really used, just for oil capacity, at least thats what I read), so you have the aluminum piece that screws onto the motor, a feed line going into the remote block, through the filter, and then to the outlet. The outlet from filter one goes into the inlet of filter two, and then the outlet goes back to the aluminum piece and into the motor. This would make it run the oil through two filters.


You're losing me just a bit here.

If you're referring to the Permacool dual filter mount, then both filters are run in parallel. Even the Amsoil dual mount runs the filters in parallel.

You put a block adapter where your oil filter currently is and route lines to the remote mount.

Now if you want to put a bypass filter on ..and keep your full flow filter where it already is, then you need one of these:

..and just plumb that to your bypass filter of choice.


As far as bypass filters go, the BP80A w/filter is about $50 delivered from Amsoil. If you want one of the more substantial mounts, they will cost you a bit more.


There are all kinds of bypass filters. After all is said and done they all offer different features and performance levels that shake out to a utility:$$ factor.

There are even 3/4-16 thread bypass filters that will fit the Permacool mount. They're not nearly as fine as just about any other offering, but they would manage to give you higher capacity with some improvement in the level of filtration. I think you can even use the 3/4-16 fuel filters. They WILL give better filtration, but are relatively expensive and I have no clue to how long they would last in service.

If you're going to be tinkering with the thing all the time anyway, I'd probably go for a tp filter. A Motor Guard or Frantz unit. You just change the roll of tp every so often. It's the best setup if you're not going to put on mega miles. For the average dino user it would be 3 or 4 rolls of tp and maybe 3-4 quarts of oil a year.

 

[Gearstix]

Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Quote:
I've seen the remote filter kits from Summit Racing and Jegs, and what not. I've read online you can use two filters (not the remote kit that holds two filters, as the second filter isn't really used, just for oil capacity, at least thats what I read), so you have the aluminum piece that screws onto the motor, a feed line going into the remote block, through the filter, and then to the outlet. The outlet from filter one goes into the inlet of filter two, and then the outlet goes back to the aluminum piece and into the motor. This would make it run the oil through two filters.


You're losing me just a bit here.

If you're referring to the Permacool dual filter mount, then both filters are run in parallel. Even the Amsoil dual mount runs the filters in parallel.

You put a block adapter where your oil filter currently is and route lines to the remote mount.

Now if you want to put a bypass filter on ..and keep your full flow filter where it already is, then you need one of these:

..and just plumb that to your bypass filter of choice.


As far as bypass filters go, the BP80A w/filter is about $50 delivered from Amsoil. If you want one of the more substantial mounts, they will cost you a bit more.


There are all kinds of bypass filters. After all is said and done they all offer different features and performance levels that shake out to a utility:$$ factor.

There are even 3/4-16 thread bypass filters that will fit the Permacool mount. They're not nearly as fine as just about any other offering, but they would manage to give you higher capacity with some improvement in the level of filtration. I think you can even use the 3/4-16 fuel filters. They WILL give better filtration, but are relatively expensive and I have no clue to how long they would last in service.

If you're going to be tinkering with the thing all the time anyway, I'd probably go for a tp filter. A Motor Guard or Frantz unit. You just change the roll of tp every so often. It's the best setup if you're not going to put on mega miles. For the average dino user it would be 3 or 4 rolls of tp and maybe 3-4 quarts of oil a year.



I didnt know the AMSOIL kit was in parallel. I guess I will end up doing something like that.
This is what I've read about online, pardon my [censored] drawing. If I was at home it would be in 3D.

I would like to remote mount both oil filters, the full flow and the bypass.
I'm most worried about my oil pump. How much more 'push' does it take to go through the two filters? I will also be turbocharged eventually here, however I don't think the turbo will add too much restriction.

How long do those AMSOIL bypass last? I would like to get 7000kms per oil change if at all possible. If I cannot extend my intervals, oh well. But I've heard alot of people run longer intervals with AMSOIL.

 

[Gearstix]

I think I have found the only 3/4-16 bypass filter to fit the dual mount Permacool setup. Permacool offers the correct adapter for my engine aswell so thats a plus.

I think it should fit.. the Permacool uses PH8A filters.

The Bypass filter
Code:


Part Number: 51641

UPC Number: 765809516410

Principal Application: Nissan UD Trucks

All Applications

Style: Spin-On Lube Filter

Service: Lube

Type: By-Pass

Media: Paper

Height: 6.601

Outer Diameter Top: 4.276

Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed

Thread Size: 3/4-16

By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: None

Burst Pressure-PSI: 345

Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM

Nominal Micron Rating: 12



Gasket Diameters

Number O.D. I.D. Thk.

Attached 2.834 2.462 0.200


And the full flow filter
Code:


Part Number: 51515

UPC Number: 765809515154

Principal Application: Chrysler Family of Cars/Trucks (57-70), Ford Family of Cars/Trucks (57-00), Mazda Trucks (94-00), Toyota Landcruiser (71-96) - (Two Quart version is 51773)

All Applications

Style: Spin-On Lube Filter

Service: Lube

Type: Full Flow

Media: Paper/Glass

Height: 5.178

Outer Diameter: 3.660

Thread Size: 3/4-16

By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11

Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes

Ends: Metal

Beta Ratio: 2/20=13/23

Burst Pressure-PSI: 290

Max Flow Rate: 7-9 GPM

Nominal Micron Rating: 21



Gasket Diameters

Number O.D. I.D. Thk.

Attached 2.834 2.462 0.200




The gasket sizes are the same for both of them. the diameter of the filters are different, not sure if it will mater.
I may try to figure out how to run two different remote blocks, so I can use a PH8A full flow say, and a different thread bypass. However I think the bypass listed above would filter pretty good, but I was reading on here about it not having a restrictor or bypass or something, not sure what it means. I want to fully understand what I need and how it works before I put this stuff together.

 

[Gary Allan]

Originally Posted By: Gearstix

I didnt know the AMSOIL kit was in parallel. I guess I will end up doing something like that.


The Amsoil dual/combination mounts are in parallel

Quote:

This is what I've read about online, pardon my [censored] drawing. If I was at home it would be in 3D.

In this configuration, the second filter, assuming the same efficiency, would be far less effective. You can not rig a traditional bypass filter in this manner. Most cannot handle the full oil flow. So, the statement that the second filter would be for capacity only is somewhat true. A single dual mount from Permacool would be cheaper and would allow one filter of common filtering ability and one of higher efficiency to be run without issues.

Quote:

I would like to remote mount both oil filters, the full flow and the bypass.
I'm most worried about my oil pump. How much more 'push' does it take to go through the two filters? I will also be turbocharged eventually here, however I don't think the turbo will add too much restriction.


I would not worry too much. The total distance that the oil is pumped should be as short as possible. The total in line mass of the oil will probably trump what the fitler(s) present. The engine will still be the biggest restriction the flow sees. You're adding to it. If the 2.2 is some high oil volume deal ..you may want to go with bigger lines if you make them too long. I would install with 1/2" and see how that works.


Quote:

How long do those AMSOIL bypass last? I would like to get 7000kms per oil change if at all possible. If I cannot extend my intervals, oh well. But I've heard alot of people run longer intervals with AMSOIL.


The mileage will vary, but even without one you can manage 7000km without any mods at all. It all depends on your typical driving cycle. In stock trim driven to a high percentage in a warmed up state, 10000km should be easy. Now throw the turbo on and have some fuel management compromises ..that will be another story.

That is, you may not benefit from a bypass filter if you're changing out the oil due to fuel dilution or some other fatigue factor that filtration cannot solve.

How long does it take to rack up 7000km?

Originally Posted By: Gearstix


The gasket sizes are the same for both of them. the diameter of the filters are different, not sure if it will mater.
I may try to figure out how to run two different remote blocks, so I can use a PH8A full flow say, and a different thread bypass. However I think the bypass listed above would filter pretty good, but I was reading on here about it not having a restrictor or bypass or something, not sure what it means. I want to fully understand what I need and how it works before I put this stuff together.



The bypass filter noted (51641) has exceptional flow capability. The matching full flow (for its application) is apparently in the 30gpm range. Your engine will probably need less than 10gpm at some potential high end extreme in fairytale land in the future. It will probably be closer to 5gpm ..but we're in speculation land and there are a few unknowns involved.

What it doesn't have is a bypass valve. If used on a dual permacool mount in parallel with a filter with a bypass, then it's not an issue. In line, it may be, but probably more if the lines and engine galleries are mostly void of oil upon start up. Otherwise it will be a normal kinetic game of oil molecule bumper cars just like the rest of the circuit.

Yes, this filter (51641) will fit. Most gaskets are close enough to 2.8/2.4 OD:ID. The thread is a match. The rest is the can diameter/length.

Given the nominal rating, this is a pretty fine filter, but it's being used more like a full flow for other applications than what it was spec'd for.


Okay, we've determined the following givens.


You absolutely want any and all filters to be remote mounted.

You want at least 7000km drain capability

You want added sump volume for future turbo installation.


So far, there's no real need for a bypass filter.



One potential installation method would be to remote mount the full flow, then install a sandwich at the single remote mount and plumb that to the bypass remote mount. Then you can use an Amsoil or any other restrictive oil filter you please.

That would be:

Engine block adapter - single full flow remote mount - sandwich adapter - bypass remote mount.

 

[Gearstix]

Originally Posted By: Gary Allan


I would not worry too much. The total distance that the oil is pumped should be as short as possible. The total in line mass of the oil will probably trump what the fitler(s) present. The engine will still be the biggest restriction the flow sees. You're adding to it. If the 2.2 is some high oil volume deal ..you may want to go with bigger lines if you make them too long. I would install with 1/2" and see how that works.


The mileage will vary, but even without one you can manage 7000km without any mods at all. It all depends on your typical driving cycle. In stock trim driven to a high percentage in a warmed up state, 10000km should be easy. Now throw the turbo on and have some fuel management compromises ..that will be another story.

That is, you may not benefit from a bypass filter if you're changing out the oil due to fuel dilution or some other fatigue factor that filtration cannot solve.

How long does it take to rack up 7000km?


The bypass filter noted (51641) has exceptional flow capability. The matching full flow (for its application) is apparently in the 30gpm range. Your engine will probably need less than 10gpm at some potential high end extreme in fairytale land in the future. It will probably be closer to 5gpm ..but we're in speculation land and there are a few unknowns involved.

What it doesn't have is a bypass valve. If used on a dual permacool mount in parallel with a filter with a bypass, then it's not an issue. In line, it may be, but probably more if the lines and engine galleries are mostly void of oil upon start up. Otherwise it will be a normal kinetic game of oil molecule bumper cars just like the rest of the circuit.

Yes, this filter (51641) will fit. Most gaskets are close enough to 2.8/2.4 OD:ID. The thread is a match. The rest is the can diameter/length.

Given the nominal rating, this is a pretty fine filter, but it's being used more like a full flow for other applications than what it was spec'd for.


Okay, we've determined the following givens.


You absolutely want any and all filters to be remote mounted.

You want at least 7000km drain capability

You want added sump volume for future turbo installation.


So far, there's no real need for a bypass filter.



One potential installation method would be to remote mount the full flow, then install a sandwich at the single remote mount and plumb that to the bypass remote mount. Then you can use an Amsoil or any other restrictive oil filter you please.

That would be:

Engine block adapter - single full flow remote mount - sandwich adapter - bypass remote mount.

I like the idea of the permacool mount with the two filters above if it would work.

My current driving is cut down being unemployed, I just go to school and back. However if I drive into town and go shopping or what not, it all adds up. I drive 70+kms per day 5-7 days a week. When I get a job I'll probably be driving good amount more.

I'm thinking of mounting the permacool setup on the side of the block. The oem filter is on the passenger side of the engine, and is mounted on its side. There may be some way to fab up a bracket to mount them pretty close to the oem filter location, that would cut down on hose length.

Would the PH8A filter cause any troubles by having a higher gpm? Will I have to restrict anything?

I think more oil capacity would help, because there will be more oil, so more heat dissapation?

 

[Gearstix]

Originally Posted By: Gary Allan

If you're going to be tinkering with the thing all the time anyway, I'd probably go for a tp filter. A Motor Guard or Frantz unit. You just change the roll of tp every so often. It's the best setup if you're not going to put on mega miles. For the average dino user it would be 3 or 4 rolls of tp and maybe 3-4 quarts of oil a year.

I just researched this Frantz unit. I just figured out TP means toilet paper. Seriously, does this stuff work?? I've never heard of using bathroom tissue as oil filter material.

 

[Gearstix]

These are the only motor guards I can find, says its for plasma cutters?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-2-Sub-M...omotiveQ5fTools

 

[Gary Allan]

yep ..that's them. They're normally used for air filtration. The filter they use is the size of a tp roll. The core is a bit smaller than most, but you can find tp that has the 1.5" core.

If you can find Ralph Woods, he sells them setup for the 1 5/8 rolls I think.

yes, tp works. It just doesn't last all that long. YMMV, surely. It will be limited in life like any other filter due to warm up states, but it's got such a relatively high density that it's going to saturate faster than other forms of media. Luckily, it's also the cheapest. The sensibility runs out if you're doing mega miles and really dislike changing the rolls out. You'll lose some oil in the process. Up to a quart.

 

[Gearstix]

The oil loss doesn't seem to bad. Changing filters wouldn't be bad, I will mount it somewhere easily accesible. However I still may do the permacool setup. We'll see.
I noticed the motorguard housings come with differnt size hose and ports, 1/4, 1/2, etc. What size should I use?

The motorguard is a heck of a lot cheaper than the frantz. Is there any more options? I don't care if I have to make up brackets or little things like that.

I guess I just have to find a specific brand of tp that fits in the motorguard. Will the frantz roll adapters interchange into the motorguard?

I am not sure if I can find that guy you mentioned. I know he used to run bypassfilters.com but its no longer a valid link.

 

[Gary Allan]

One or the other. The size of the line won't matter much. There's a restrictor intout of the thing and the roll won't pass much fluid even from new. Bushing down ..to fit your hose barbs ....

You can use transmission cooling line for this part of the installation.

 

[Steve S]

I would say the Amsoil is the best deal when you consider the life of the filter and its micron rating . Use the stand alone bypass filter setup.

 

[Gearstix]

I am still researching the TP filters.
Although most posts on forums I have read about this subject, it usually turns into a giant agrument.

I've read that the Motor Guards on eBay and such are not suitable to use for bypass filters due to plastic parts and not having a restrictor in them.

I'm still trying to find out what Motor Guard to use, or what modifications are needed.

 

[Gary Allan]

The one I have required no mods. The plastic appears to be Nylon in mine. I left it in boiling water for a good bit. Not even a softening. Anything that would melt or distort at 250F will be pliable @ 212F.

The only problem with the collars was that they were the right size for a 1.5" core. Most tp is 1 5/8. The restrictor appears built in ..about a 1/16". Mine was the 1/4" M30.

If you use a permacool sandwich for plumbing it, it doesn't need a restrictor. All the flow goes through the engine. The sandwich applies a constant 2psid across MG.

You can surely use a EaBp90 with the cheaper mount ($50+/- delivered). It will provide longer service than a tp filter.

 

[Shaman]

I don't have a dog in the fight, but if you can get the TP filter mounted in an easy to reach place, and you get under the hood once a month anyway, the TP would be easier, but if you don't pop the hood much, then go for the Amsoil. If you have campfires, or a wood stove, use the TP filters.

 

[deeter16317]

Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
The one I have required no mods. The plastic appears to be Nylon in mine. I left it in boiling water for a good bit. Not even a softening. Anything that would melt or distort at 250F will be pliable @ 212F.





I have over 100k on the nylon endcaps of a GCF, and they look like new yet.

 

[Gary Allan]

Nylon has a working temp of about 500F-550f in extrusion. It's up there with Teflon (FEP).

 

[Gearstix]

Where did you purchase your M30 Gary?
I'm still sort of in between on this.
So TP filters are best used with Dino oil?
I'm currently rebuilding the engine in my truck so I'd like for it to last a long time.

 

[Gary Allan]

Your engine will last you a long time depending on many factors. The oil will last a long time depending on a few things.

You can affect wear ..but the level of significance is marginal. 90% of your wear is unavoidable. It's part of the warm up process. It's the "90% of all wear occurs at start up!" that Castrol often tells you about. It's everything (in terms of schools of thought) from the ill fitment of parts ..additive activation for reaction time ..to corrosive moisture/fuel issues with acid formations (I don't buy this one).

So, you're attempting to shave that 10% that is avoidable. Even if you used a block and pan warmer, you would merely shorten this curve and still be stuck with the avoidable wear that you're shaving the onion ..getting the fuzz off of the peach.

Let's say that you gut that number in half ..and it happened to work across the board on all surfaces in the entire engine. Would you be able to assign any "mileage added" number to it? How many engines, that are well maintained, ever reach their end of life? How would altering lubrication change that number?

That all said, if you want a bypass filter you want it to be as economical as possible while getting the job done.

I got my MG on ebay. I bought 5 of them for $35/each. 4 of them were in my van when it got stolen.

Now you're putting tons of money into this engine ..are going to turbo it at some point. That sorta makes other costs small potatoes here. The turbo is going to fatigue oil ..create coke debris ..so even if you use a synthetic, the routine swapping out of a tp roll and make up oil wouldn't necessarily be a waste in that type of preventive maintenance. You're operating outside the OEM box.