Ironically, now that I have a few filters in stock for my old 826D IH tractor, I have discovered the engine has an internal bypass valve. Well, there's the difference between a cheap "one-size-fits-all-manual" and the factory book, but I digress. When looking at filter applications for this tractor, all the filters listed have bypass protection. I'm surprised the filter manufacturers didn't take this into account and offer a filter without a bypass. Or am I missing something? I wanted a larger, more efficient filter but agonized over matching the bypass setting seen listed by several manufacturers. Wasted agony. Comments?
Bypass in Engine, Then Why Use One In Filter?
- Thread starter Jim Allen
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Look at it this way: if the bypass in the block fails, you have a back-up.
I don't see it causing any harm, so long as the bypass pressures are anywhere close to each other.
I don't see it causing any harm, so long as the bypass pressures are anywhere close to each other.
Errrrr..
If the by-pass valve in the tractor is ..say 25PSID..and the filter is 8-11 PSID..
you figure it out.
The filter will go into by-pass at a lower opening setting than what the tractor requires. Which means more unfiltered oil will circulate longer or more often than necessary.
If the by-pass valve in the filter has a much higher opening setting, then it shouldn't effect anything except to be a back up.
If the by-pass valve in the tractor is ..say 25PSID..and the filter is 8-11 PSID..
you figure it out.
The filter will go into by-pass at a lower opening setting than what the tractor requires. Which means more unfiltered oil will circulate longer or more often than necessary.
If the by-pass valve in the filter has a much higher opening setting, then it shouldn't effect anything except to be a back up.
Err is just what I said, Filter Guy. My manual does not list the opening pressure of the engine's built-in relief valve, but the spring test load for service is 33 lbs new and 18-20 used at 1.86 and 1.858 inches respectively. The bore diameter is .826-in. Can we deduce an opening presure from those facts, Filter Guy?
Nope. You need the size of the port in square inches and the force required for the spring to begin to move, not the force to move the spring to full compression.
Ken
Ken
But do bypass valves just pop-open and shut? Not likely. If the "rated" pressures are even close chances are both may be open at the same time. A bypass in the block is better then one in the filter becuase it does not allow oil from one side of the media directly to the other.
-T
-T
My reply was more towards Mike's post who seemed to imply the one in the filter does nothing at all..
However.. your 826D should have the 358 diesel engine. There are three potential OEM part numbers for the oil filter ..528250-R1, 398080-R2 ( both of these should be the 8-11psid by-pass ), or 3136046-R93 ( which has a 20-24 psid by-pass).
So with your tractor you have a major variance in available filters which tells me that the engine by-pass valve setting "could" vary depending on where and when the engine was built.
OEM's have a funny way of changing things midstream.
You could contact IHC and, by tractor serial number and engine #, they might be able to get you an answer. Expect a bit of time before they do.
The job of the by-pass valve is to save the filter from collapsing if there are pressure spikes. Besides the usual discussion points.
By the reason for a by-pass valve is the filter. Even with one built into the block there is some flow through the element. So oil will always go from "one side of the filter to the other" downstream.
No problems...good luck...
It probably cost them more to have a model that does not, making things all the same eliminates extra effort in production as well as having 2 part numbers the same except for the bypass etc. Like when auto mfg decided years ago it was cheaper to package certain options together to same time and money in assembly. Same principal, production efficiency
Having one in the filter nothing at all, its just sits there and does nothing but if its there is a problem it could save the engine. There is no down side to it..
Having one in the filter nothing at all, its just sits there and does nothing but if its there is a problem it could save the engine. There is no down side to it..
You did not understand my post. With an in-block bypass the oil does not "wash past" the dirty side.
For the same reason that a threaded end bypass is better then a dome end one, an in-block bypass is better then an in-filter one.
And with any filter design..how much turbulence is there within the filter itself on the clean side? So that "contaminant" that drops to the bottom of the filter or is held in suspension in the oil within the filter on the clean side gets "washed" out the by-pass when it opens even with the engine end style?
Shall we discuss inverted mounted filters or the new spiral flow filters and their effects on "washing past".....
My point would be that "washing past" the by-pass occurs regardless of where it is oriented inside the filter.
Block mounts are better but this thread was about having a dual by-pass set up, one in the block and one in the filter. There can be problems associated with a dual set up..
For the same reason that a threaded end bypass is better then a dome end one, an in-block bypass is better then an in-filter one.
And with any filter design..how much turbulence is there within the filter itself on the clean side? So that "contaminant" that drops to the bottom of the filter or is held in suspension in the oil within the filter on the clean side gets "washed" out the by-pass when it opens even with the engine end style?
Shall we discuss inverted mounted filters or the new spiral flow filters and their effects on "washing past".....
My point would be that "washing past" the by-pass occurs regardless of where it is oriented inside the filter.
Block mounts are better but this thread was about having a dual by-pass set up, one in the block and one in the filter. There can be problems associated with a dual set up..
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