So recently I noticed my car started burning oil. Its a nissan n16. When driving normal there is no consumption, once i drive with rpm above 4000 it starts to burn, also too i notice that highway miles cause it to burn. Do you think it can be the PCV valve?
Burning oil
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I thought all Japanese engines burned a little oil(1/2 to 1 qt per 5k OCI), esp the V6s but all since almost all have VTEC or some version of variable timing which works with engine revs? I guess 1 BIG factor is the oil you choose combined with the performance you are looking for (i.e FE, hp)
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Originally Posted By: Nissan101
yeah after 4000k rpm vvl engages...so does vvl cause some oil consumption?
That answer depends formidably on the weight, I was using 5w-20 and it used the aforementioned 1 to 1.5 quarts but with the LExus, it's 5w-30 and I don't think I used a drop atleast not up to the 5k point. So far in nearly 9500 miles, have only had to add less then 1 quart!! This is a 1995 engine in constant hot and humid conditions almost exclusively 12 out of 12 months!!
yeah after 4000k rpm vvl engages...so does vvl cause some oil consumption?
That answer depends formidably on the weight, I was using 5w-20 and it used the aforementioned 1 to 1.5 quarts but with the LExus, it's 5w-30 and I don't think I used a drop atleast not up to the 5k point. So far in nearly 9500 miles, have only had to add less then 1 quart!! This is a 1995 engine in constant hot and humid conditions almost exclusively 12 out of 12 months!!
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Originally Posted By: 06VtecV6
I thought all Japanese engines burned a little oil(1/2 to 1 qt per 5k OCI), esp the V6s but all since almost all have VTEC or some version of variable timing which works with engine revs? I guess 1 BIG factor is the oil you choose combined with the performance you are looking for (i.e FE, hp)
I redline my S2000 to 8,000-8,200 RPM several times every time I drive it(after coolant at normal temp), also the engine is turning at more than 4,300-4,500 RPM on highway at speed around 80-85 MPH, but the car doesn't consume more than 1/2 pints in 5k OCI.
Some engines consume more oil than others, some engines don't consume measurable amount of oil at all, like my 2000 E430. It doesn't consume more than 1/4 pints in 10-12k OCI.
I thought all Japanese engines burned a little oil(1/2 to 1 qt per 5k OCI), esp the V6s but all since almost all have VTEC or some version of variable timing which works with engine revs? I guess 1 BIG factor is the oil you choose combined with the performance you are looking for (i.e FE, hp)
I redline my S2000 to 8,000-8,200 RPM several times every time I drive it(after coolant at normal temp), also the engine is turning at more than 4,300-4,500 RPM on highway at speed around 80-85 MPH, but the car doesn't consume more than 1/2 pints in 5k OCI.
Some engines consume more oil than others, some engines don't consume measurable amount of oil at all, like my 2000 E430. It doesn't consume more than 1/4 pints in 10-12k OCI.
The engine is wearing out time to start using Lucas or stp oil treatment
Are you certain that it's burning oil?
I once had a mysterious oil consumption problem. There was no external evidence of oil leakage, nor consumption with around-town driving. But take it out for an hour of high speed or hard driving and the engine would be down a quart.
The problem turned out to be a bad seal on the oil cooler hose connection. It would spray oil down on the road when the oil thermostat opened, shutting off and leaving barely a trace by the time I pulled off the highway.
In retrospect the lack of burning oil at start-up or after a long downhill run should have pointed to an external leak.
I once had a mysterious oil consumption problem. There was no external evidence of oil leakage, nor consumption with around-town driving. But take it out for an hour of high speed or hard driving and the engine would be down a quart.
The problem turned out to be a bad seal on the oil cooler hose connection. It would spray oil down on the road when the oil thermostat opened, shutting off and leaving barely a trace by the time I pulled off the highway.
In retrospect the lack of burning oil at start-up or after a long downhill run should have pointed to an external leak.
Originally Posted By: Ram01
The engine is wearing out time to start using Lucas or stp oil treatment
Uh no.. just... no.
would probably be ok to step up in viscosity to slow oil consumption.. but I wouldn't add that sludge in a bottle to anything.
The engine is wearing out time to start using Lucas or stp oil treatment
Uh no.. just... no.
would probably be ok to step up in viscosity to slow oil consumption.. but I wouldn't add that sludge in a bottle to anything.
Since it's at higher engine speeds, it's likely due to high vacuum at cruise.
You could have a faulty or gummed PCV valve. It's the obvious place to start. Go through that system and make sure it has good hoses and fittings plus the new valve.
If that does not cure it, it might be a valve guide, or two. Do the plugs all come out the same color? Do any have oily soot on them?
If not the PCV or a valve guide, it could be sticky rings... The cure there is to pull the plugs and partially fill the cylinder with a carbon solvent. I use Break Free Gun Solvent. Let it sit overnight. Re-install plugs next day, fire it up and do a short drive. Come back and change oil and filter.
All the solvent will either be burned away, or if it all worked as planned, it soaked down around the rings and was in the used oil that just left. The rings are now free to follow the cylinder wall taper (wear) and will seal better.
You could have a faulty or gummed PCV valve. It's the obvious place to start. Go through that system and make sure it has good hoses and fittings plus the new valve.
If that does not cure it, it might be a valve guide, or two. Do the plugs all come out the same color? Do any have oily soot on them?
If not the PCV or a valve guide, it could be sticky rings... The cure there is to pull the plugs and partially fill the cylinder with a carbon solvent. I use Break Free Gun Solvent. Let it sit overnight. Re-install plugs next day, fire it up and do a short drive. Come back and change oil and filter.
All the solvent will either be burned away, or if it all worked as planned, it soaked down around the rings and was in the used oil that just left. The rings are now free to follow the cylinder wall taper (wear) and will seal better.
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