Broken tools, how to overcome

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I have an 03' F-150 that has a rusted fuel tank and has started seeping gasoline, as evident by the smell in the garage. My approach to fixing was replace the tank, which I gain access by removing the bed. The bolts that hold down the bed have a little more than surface rust, but really aren't that bad.

My problem is they use T50 torx bits and I've already broken two impact rated 1/2" drive bits. The first one was with a break-over bar (no cheater pipe), and the second one with an 1/2" drive air impact. It was the same brand (Masterforce from Menards), so I am going to try a different brand and if that breaks, then my plan was to just weld a bolt to the torx bolt and use a regular socket. I've removed 3 out of 8 of the bolts and once broken they come out just fine.

Any other ideas that might work? I live about 20 minutes from home improvement stores and making trips is starting to get old. Disappointed that the bolts are stronger than the tools.
 
Pay a shop to zip the bolts out?

What does the bolt go into, and can you hit that with any heat?
 
Originally Posted by supton
Pay a shop to zip the bolts out?

What does the bolt go into, and can you hit that with any heat?


+1
A torch would be Nice.
 
It goes through the frame into those nut clips (clip around the frame with a nut welded to it). I've heated the bolt from the bottom and while hot soaked it in penetrating oil. Of the ones I have taken off, the oil doesn't penetrate at all and at least one bolt was rust free.

I've got the tools to remove the bolts, so it doesn't make sense to me to pay someone to do it. I could always use a cut off blade (circular or reciprocating) and replace the bolts. Even though I am having trouble trying to disconnect the fuel lines from underneath the truck would be a real nightmare from the YouTube videos I've seen.
 
The last time I did that job I soaked the bolts for a week. Bought an American made socket to do the job. It wasn't cheap. I had to drill 12 1" holes in 1/4" steel the other day. I bought an American made drill bit for job. $40 and well worth it.
 
Originally Posted by rollinpete
Can't you just drop the tank?

I could, but you have to lower the tank and then work in a very cramped space, if I can even get to it. The tank is about 4 feet long and has connections on both ends and would require working around the drive shaft, or taking the muffler off to gain room. They install the tank before the bed at the factory, so everything is really accessible with the bed removed. Also it gives me a chance to hit the underside with some rustproofing.

Knowing my luck the tank would fall off before I could remove all of the connections and then have to go buy more stuff.
 
Pretty sure those bolts are Torx Plus. The TP bits are stronger than a normal Torx bit.

Using the right socket plus a little heat (to release the threadlocker) should make it easier than what you've experienced to this point.

Good luck!
thumbsup2.gif


ps - I hear ya on the 20 minute drive. I'm 20 minutes from everything, too! But, I don't have neighbors, so it's worth it.
smile.gif
 
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Originally Posted by cpayne5
Pretty sure those bolts are Torx Plus. The TP bits are stronger than a normal Torx bit.

Using the right socket plus a little heat (to release the threadlocker) should make it easier than what you've experienced to this point.

Good luck!
thumbsup2.gif


ps - I hear ya on the 20 minute drive. I'm 20 minutes from everything, too! But, I don't have neighbors, so it's worth it.
smile.gif


That's a good idea. Of the three I have removed I don't see any evidence of threadlocker, but I did some work on the tailgate hinges last year and those wouldn't come loose without heat due to red threadlocker being used.

I googled to learn what the difference between Torx Plus and regular Torx and they indeed are Torx Plus. Thanks for the info! I noticed that the T50 was a little loose and that explains it.
 
You CAN just drop the tank. It is easier even if your bed bolts came out like greased lightning. People do it all the time.
 
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My gut feeling tells me you're not cleaning the bolt heads out enough to allow for the bit to sink all the way in. Use a pick and get the junk out first.
 
This talk about using a torch or cut off wheel, not sure how close this is to the leak but even fumes (and arguably especially fumes) would ignite no? I could see the sparks from the cut off wheel doing that...
 
Originally Posted by das_peikko
Yes, using a cut off wheel or an open flame near a gas tank is not sensible.

The bolt heads that he's working with are in the bed of the truck, not underneath.
 
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Didn't use the torch near the tank and I did it outside, not in the garage. For cutting the bolts, I'm referring to cutting off the bolt heads, which are in the bed.

The bolt heads are relatively clean, as it had a bed liner. The ones I've tried so far didn't need cleaning.
 
I have always had to cut the bolt heads off when removing just about any ford truck bed. I too broke several torx sockets trying to remove them, even with heat
 
The bed on the Rat had been off once before , 4 of the 6 t 55 bolts were left. Long skinny tank on the Rat is plastic with a sheet metal :coffin " protecting it. The gas smell was coming from a rotted out steel filler neck. there is all kinds of stuff that goes /gone bad on an old Ford truck My trouble with the Rat is that I love the stupid heap.. I have 3k worth of parts and untold hours of difficult labor to still have a 500$ truck
grin2.gif


IIRC Dormann sells a bolt and clip nut set for about 50$
 
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Originally Posted by clinebarger
Aren't those Torx-Plus 50?.....


Yes either that or a T55 brain [censored] at the moment..

I have broken several snap on bits with hand tools trying to remove them. Up here in the landed of rusted trucks it's easier just to cut them off and get new bolts
 
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