Yes understood. I was just being lazy and sardonic of both, this whole thing quoting myself.
I should have also stated contacting Helicoil could be fun.
Broken exhaust stud removal
- Thread starter JHZR2
- Start date
I should have also stated contacting Helicoil could be fun.
I too wondered what the manufacturer might say about this. But yeah, could be a painful and pointless attempt to find anyone who cares or understands
What a fiasco this turned out to be, all because of sketchy tools it seems that should be premium.
Ten years ago, but same deal:
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/mislabeled-tap.51632/
In Post #7 he says Irwin was sympathetic and sent him a replacement. Granted, I think they've changed hands by 2026. You might be lucky to get a thick Indian accent you can't understand, but hopefully I'm wrong.
Also interesting how they say they're made in one area and thrown into a bin to be labeled elsewhere. I could see the average laborer accidentally dumping a whole bin and quickly sweeping them up and throwing them into any old bin. Again, let's hope I'm wrong.
Today if you have a pulse and show up 50% of the time you're considered a pretty good employee
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/mislabeled-tap.51632/
In Post #7 he says Irwin was sympathetic and sent him a replacement. Granted, I think they've changed hands by 2026. You might be lucky to get a thick Indian accent you can't understand, but hopefully I'm wrong.
Also interesting how they say they're made in one area and thrown into a bin to be labeled elsewhere. I could see the average laborer accidentally dumping a whole bin and quickly sweeping them up and throwing them into any old bin. Again, let's hope I'm wrong.
Today if you have a pulse and show up 50% of the time you're considered a pretty good employee
JHZR2
Staff member
I went back to McMaster and looked at another bottoming tap. Same odd pitch. So it wouldn’t have worked either.
How frustrating!!
If I could thread a helicoil in and get it back out I’d be less concerned. But the fact that a helicoil is a one way fit into a blind hole concerns me.
Just out of curiosity I would be tempted to buy one from OSG or Regal to compare.
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/58868530
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/58868530
JHZR2
Staff member
I think I will for curiosity and completeness. I figure I’ll probably remove manifolds on at least one of my 603 diesels. And, if a thread in the block was ever destroyed, I’d have to use a helicoil there, so having an extra $29 bottoming tap that probably won’t decrease much in value over time isn’t the worst thing.
But ready for the next debacle??!?
Two threads Im making new because the studs were seized. Two the studs came out ok, and the threads are still in place.
So I chase the two original threads with a chaser. Go in easily with a little cutting fluid. I want to try my studs from Belmetric. No go. Maybe one full turn.
I can thread the chaser in by hand. The new studs, not in the slightest.
So then I took one of the old studs I removed from the engine block and tried to thread it in. It barely went but I could turn it one or two. Because it came out with its nut affixed, I turned it in with my 13mm wrench. It went a few turns. Then I tried to remove it. The nut, which was hard enough on the stud to come off with the stud, actually came off when I tried backing the stud out! I double nutted it and it came out but the threads, which looked brand new and fully black oxide coated when I pulled them from the car, definitely got reformed.
So frustrating. Guessing I can get the studs in with a double nut, and as long as 8mm of engagement happens, guessing it’s ok… but any thoughts on this?
I had used tap magic on the threads of the chaser, and oil on the threads of the studs.
Use a real M8 x 1.25 tap on those not a thread chaser, make sure the stud threads match the taps.
JHZR2
Staff member
JHZR2
Staff member
Copper works very well with cast iron, above 1800f nickel. Turbo's can get this high. My thought would be go with the nickel as this is right at the hot side.
JHZR2
Staff member
Very good. I have that in my garage.
Now… I’m going to try to sand the surface flat. I have some woodworking straight edges, not sure if they’re truly good enough. I don’t have a high end jointer or machinist surface plate. What’s my best bet for looking for flatness, and how much variation is ok?
Get a straight edge and use a bench belt sander, remove the new studs and use a 60 or 80 grit belt and finish with a 120. Look for around 0.125mm flatness. These are what I use, the sander I have is an old timer but it doesnt need to cost big money.
The wood working straight edge should be okay.
Straight Edge it doesn't need to be 24 inch but I use mine on heads and blocks also.
Belt Sander Not the best (it doesnt need to be) but for occasional use Wen is okay.
Belts I love these ceramic belts, they last a long time.
The wood working straight edge should be okay.
Straight Edge it doesn't need to be 24 inch but I use mine on heads and blocks also.
Belt Sander Not the best (it doesnt need to be) but for occasional use Wen is okay.
Belts I love these ceramic belts, they last a long time.
JHZR2
Staff member
Picked up a lightly used HF belt sander for very cheap on FBM. I was going to buy belts and glue them down on some MDF or float glass. Glad I didn’t.
Only did the small side with the 60 grit it came with. Bought more better belts from Empire as you linked to.
Started…
Kept working it. Stopped here given the heat and time.
Will take some more off tomorrow. And when I get the better grit ill do the 120.
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