Briggs I/C 7HP Tiller Engine CHOKE! Help please.

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Oct 28, 2002
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Location
Everson WA - Pacific NW USA
I have a good old Troy Built Horse model tiller, purchased 1/23/1989. Has the 7 HP Briggs & Stratton Industrial/Commercial Engine.

Has not actually seen that many hours of run time, but we always moved it from house to house. Last house I never used it in 16 years. Move it here, refreshed it, ran like a champ. Tilled a bunch. Drained the tank, and bowl and winterized it.

Now, spring I expect a tough start, as it can be cold blooded and yes it took a bit to get started. It started.

PROBLEM: It will not run at all, at any throttle position without choke full closed position.


So not getting enough gas or massive air leak - otherwise lean condition, right?

So I blow the jets out, fuel is new and flows well, air intake all looks normal.

I'm stumped! Help me out. (Reward offered!!)
 
I bellieve that carburator has a jet and an emulsion tube, or an emulsion well in the carb. This mixes air wirh the fuel so it is eaiser to have vacuum lift it. If any of the air bleeds in the emulsion part are clogged, it can act like that. The fuel is too heavy to flow and it takes choke to make it move, then too much fuel. they are hard to see sometimes, tiny holes. The wire out of a bread tie is about right to poke thru.

Good luck, that is not a common engine.
 
I never worked on one of them, but from others, I know to look for a very small air hole that eventually connects to the bowl that the gasoline is in. Often a hole like that will be located near where air first comes into the carburetor. Sometimes it's even located on the carburetor but before the main channel for the air to enter the carburetor. As others have said, the wire from a bread tie is just about the exact right size to poke those small air passages out with, the nature give you an idea of the size of the hole that you're looking for. By the way if you do find that hole and clean it out and get it to run it's a good idea to squirt WD 30 in those holes like that before you put it away for storage. I use the red straw of the WD-40 can when I do that. In case you didn't know it WD-40 is combustible. So if you happen to pull the Rope after that and you have WD-40 in the carb it might run for a couple of seconds.
 
For about $25 I would take the chance

1680214118400.jpg
briggs carb
 
I ordered a carb. For whatever reason the idle needle looks etched and deformed. I never had it out before. No telling what the tube surfaces are like. Maybe have just been age/oxidation.
 
Ive resorted to having spare carbs on hand at this point

Even the crappy Chinese ones are good enough in a pinch, they are really inexpensive even from Amazon and I get them in 2 days thanks to Prime. If an existing carb goes down Ill swap for the new one then get a rebuild kit for the first one.

Its a lot more enjoyable rebuilding a carb later on, when all the snow has already been thrown!
 
Same seller on Amazon is $6 cheaper and it arrives tomorrow/Monday (I bet) so went ahead and ordered $18. Ebay, $24, Friday! Hahhahaha I bought both.
 
If it's like the one in the picture, the big needle in the bottom is the main jet, the mixture is fully adjustable.
 
I see this occasionally with the China carbs, make sure the screws are tight. Also could be the float is slightly out of adjustment.
Got a good chunk of the tilling done.

This carb is more finicky to tune. Just when I think it's a bit rich and turn maybe 1/32 of a turn to lean, it will straight up be running way too lean
 
Got a good chunk of the tilling done.

This carb is more finicky to tune. Just when I think it's a bit rich and turn maybe 1/32 of a turn to lean, it will straight up be running way too lean
Maybe the taper on the new needle is the wrong angle? I wonder if you can swap in the old needle?
 
if yo uare having a problem with that carb, i would just order another one and return the old one to amazon. Sometimes it takes a couple of tries to get a good one.
 
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