Just recently had the short block replaced on my 2017 Mustang Gt due to cylinder scoring in cylinders 3and 5. Wanted to know if the break in period should follow as in the book or if any extra procedures need to be followed. Thanks in advance.
Breaking in new short block
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I advocate the mototune USA break-in. Basically you make repeated acceleration runs using a bit more throttle each time until you’ve worked it enough to seat the rings. Warm up the engine first though.
Others will scream nooooooo. I personally find this to be an excellent way to break in an engine. Change the oil after you have completed the process and enjoy.
Others will scream nooooooo. I personally find this to be an excellent way to break in an engine. Change the oil after you have completed the process and enjoy.
I prefer to load the cylinder pressures to help seat the rings
Drive the car. Don't be scared of the throttle or of letting the revs hang while slowing.
OMG do you realize what you have just done?? Now every poster will have his "brew" to help you break this block in. And if you don't do it right.....your motor will blow oil starting at 50,000 miles. This site will practically blow from all the brain power being emitted....lol
Yeah. I may have stepped in it. Hopefully the server won't freeze. The mototune method is what I've always used on my bikes and it seemed to work well. I wasn't sure if any procedures were done at the factory fo the original engine before shipping the car. That was the reason for my original question. Thanks for the replies.
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Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
I advocate the mototune USA break-in. Basically you make repeated acceleration runs using a bit more throttle each time until you’ve worked it enough to seat the rings. Warm up the engine first though.
Others will scream nooooooo. I personally find this to be an excellent way to break in an engine. Change the oil after you have completed the process and enjoy.
I know their different animals but many break in their snowmobiles, dirt bikes and atvs using this break in procedure. I followed it and my owners manual (Ram truck, which is similar) and so far so good. The engine runs strong and uses zero oil between oil changes.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I advocate the mototune USA break-in. Basically you make repeated acceleration runs using a bit more throttle each time until you’ve worked it enough to seat the rings. Warm up the engine first though.
Others will scream nooooooo. I personally find this to be an excellent way to break in an engine. Change the oil after you have completed the process and enjoy.
I know their different animals but many break in their snowmobiles, dirt bikes and atvs using this break in procedure. I followed it and my owners manual (Ram truck, which is similar) and so far so good. The engine runs strong and uses zero oil between oil changes.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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Keep the rings in a high vacuum state by accelerating to a moderate speed and coast down and repeat multiple times over the course of 500-700 miles as often as you can. Dump the oil and change the filter at 1000-1200 miles and rock on.
Ive read about "out of round" cylinders on the gen1 11-14 coyotes. Mine is a gen2 but it' seemed to be the same issue. I was hearing was sounded like bad piston slap in drive thus. Otherwise the engine seemed normal. No signs of excess blowby. Still made good power and got 25-26 mpg. Sure enough when they pulled the heads 2 of the cylinders were scored longitudinally. I'm just gonna chalk it up to mass production tolerances and move on. FYI original break in was done as per owners manual. Oil was changed every 5000 miles. Engine replaced at 15000.
https://www.shell.com/business-customers...8-30071255.html
Here is something that appears to be of value.
Here is something that appears to be of value.
I take several new engines straight to the chassis dyno right after install......They get wrung the F out!
These engines seem to use less oil, Have the least blow-by, And return the best leak-down numbers compared to engines that had some special-top-secret-voodoo break-in procedure performed.
These engines seem to use less oil, Have the least blow-by, And return the best leak-down numbers compared to engines that had some special-top-secret-voodoo break-in procedure performed.
Originally Posted By: Bub
Ive read about "out of round" cylinders on the gen1 11-14 coyotes. Mine is a gen2 but it' seemed to be the same issue. I was hearing was sounded like bad piston slap in drive thus. Otherwise the engine seemed normal. No signs of excess blowby. Still made good power and got 25-26 mpg. Sure enough when they pulled the heads 2 of the cylinders were scored longitudinally. I'm just gonna chalk it up to mass production tolerances and move on. FYI original break in was done as per owners manual. Oil was changed every 5000 miles. Engine replaced at 15000.
Good to hear they took care of you. Thanks for posting what happened.
Ive read about "out of round" cylinders on the gen1 11-14 coyotes. Mine is a gen2 but it' seemed to be the same issue. I was hearing was sounded like bad piston slap in drive thus. Otherwise the engine seemed normal. No signs of excess blowby. Still made good power and got 25-26 mpg. Sure enough when they pulled the heads 2 of the cylinders were scored longitudinally. I'm just gonna chalk it up to mass production tolerances and move on. FYI original break in was done as per owners manual. Oil was changed every 5000 miles. Engine replaced at 15000.
Good to hear they took care of you. Thanks for posting what happened.
Originally Posted By: philipp10
https://www.shell.com/business-customers...8-30071255.html
Here is something that appears to be of value.
Exactly how does a process that is detailed for small aircraft engines apply to a Coyote engine in a Mustang? Have you missed the part where there are literally a hundred car models that come with synthetic from the factory (and have so for many, many years)? I don't even use Mobil 1 but here's an easily found snippet:
Quote:
It’s a fact: More than 70 of the top performance vehicle models roll off factory lines with Mobil 1™ advanced full synthetic motor oil inside. Today’s engines are designed to achieve an optimal balance of power, fuel economy and emissions. Bolstered by its winning history in motorsports, Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil meets and exceeds those requirements.
https://www.shell.com/business-customers...8-30071255.html
Here is something that appears to be of value.
Exactly how does a process that is detailed for small aircraft engines apply to a Coyote engine in a Mustang? Have you missed the part where there are literally a hundred car models that come with synthetic from the factory (and have so for many, many years)? I don't even use Mobil 1 but here's an easily found snippet:
Quote:
It’s a fact: More than 70 of the top performance vehicle models roll off factory lines with Mobil 1™ advanced full synthetic motor oil inside. Today’s engines are designed to achieve an optimal balance of power, fuel economy and emissions. Bolstered by its winning history in motorsports, Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil meets and exceeds those requirements.
I have observed from UOAs on my 5 different engines and others posted here, that WEAR metals stabilize at somewhere between 4,000 and 8,000 miles. This for engines where the owner does NOT drive "like you stole it" or babying it to death, but, driving normally with some slightly aggressive thrown in. Ed
Originally Posted By: SubieRubyRoo
Originally Posted By: philipp10
https://www.shell.com/business-customers...8-30071255.html
Here is something that appears to be of value.
Exactly how does a process that is detailed for small aircraft engines apply to a Coyote engine in a Mustang? Have you missed the part where there are literally a hundred car models that come with synthetic from the factory (and have so for many, many years)? I don't even use Mobil 1 but here's an easily found snippet:
Quote:
It’s a fact: More than 70 of the top performance vehicle models roll off factory lines with Mobil 1™ advanced full synthetic motor oil inside. Today’s engines are designed to achieve an optimal balance of power, fuel economy and emissions. Bolstered by its winning history in motorsports, Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil meets and exceeds those requirements.
ahhh...they both have pistons and cylinders? Engines are engines for the most part.
Originally Posted By: philipp10
https://www.shell.com/business-customers...8-30071255.html
Here is something that appears to be of value.
Exactly how does a process that is detailed for small aircraft engines apply to a Coyote engine in a Mustang? Have you missed the part where there are literally a hundred car models that come with synthetic from the factory (and have so for many, many years)? I don't even use Mobil 1 but here's an easily found snippet:
Quote:
It’s a fact: More than 70 of the top performance vehicle models roll off factory lines with Mobil 1™ advanced full synthetic motor oil inside. Today’s engines are designed to achieve an optimal balance of power, fuel economy and emissions. Bolstered by its winning history in motorsports, Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil meets and exceeds those requirements.
ahhh...they both have pistons and cylinders? Engines are engines for the most part.
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