Break-In Period

[HighwayRanger]

Hello All! I'm sure this topic has been beat to death,

but I couldn't get a search to work, so here it is again:

I'm looking for the true scoop on waiting for a new engine to "break-in" before switching to synthetic oil. There are mixed recommendations either way, that I'm trying to sort out. What say you? Please hook a brother up so I don't screw this one up.

In my case, it's a new 2006 Ford Triton 6.8L V-10 in a Class C motor home, and I'm itching to switch to syn. (2200 mi on it now) Thanks!

 

[06VtecV6]

I have some thoughts on this but I do not want to be attacked. Break-in is two phased..there is the manuf recommended break-in which is some cheesy and easy 500 miles and then there is true engine break-in which for me is 30,000 miles. I abide by the get as close to 30k as humanely possible before using any drop or hint of full synthetic. How did I get 30k? Eazy...from reading hundreds of posts both here and on other very credible sources. Having said that, I began to use synthetic blends also known as semi-synthetics at 10k. There, you get the best of both worlds but not 100% of either which is the point. It's a great "medium" to go with while your car breaks in but if your OCIs are short enough, even a great dino like Max life which isn't markets as a "semi-synthetic" would do. Actually, who is the manuf of your motor vehicle? If they make or provide an oil, I would go with that one. The manuf of my car, Honda, sells a good -quality oil that one can use until 30k break-in is done..again , not marketed as a "semi-synthetic" that one could use and perhaps yours has a manuf with oil as well. There are so many great blends and it is, imo, also a great idea to use blends as a segway to full synthetics..find a blend as close to your Factor Fill as possible..again, if the manuf has or recommends an oil..go with that one or simply find a great blend to use until about 30k then fire away with the best full-synthetic of your choice.

I just put my first fill of full synthetic a couple of days ago and I Was at 27k using nothing but Exxon Mobil dinos and blends (this is oil maker the car used for the FF) then went one OCI with Motorcraft (a blend) which racheted up the performance while helping not hurting fuel economy and now I am using PP full synthetic!

 

[SrDriver]

Some vehicles come with a factory fill of synthetic oil. I have owned several vehicles over the years and between 3 or 4 thousand miles dump the factory fill and use whatever oil I want be it synthetic or dino.

 

[buster]

06VtecV6, no offense but you are completely wrong.

 

[mgm13]

I would say u can change at anytime ater the 2200k u have on the clock. There is IMO no need to wait any longer. Full syn will work fine right now.

Big Mike

 

[ekpolk]

I've got to agree with Buster. In today's modern engines, machined to tight clearances, with nano-tolerances, there just isn't going to be the long period of parts rubbing each other down and shaping themselves into equilibrium that there once was. With primitive manufacturing, maybe, but not now. On the other hand, the dino oils upon which a good break-in used to be founded, are now so good that using one for 30k, at reasonable OCIs will almost certainly take little, if anything, away from total engine life.

 

[Blue99]

A proper new engine break-in period is less of an issue nowdays vs. 50 years ago, for a variety of reasons. A lot has to do with more advanced materials and better maufacturing methods.

On your Ford Triton V10 engine, most of the piston ring seating probably occurred during test runs at the engine plant. After some intial run time on the road, say a 500 mile safety buffer, it's safe to assume that all break-in is complete.

Engine break-in is one of the "myths" that people want to believe about synthetic oils. Some of the others are the "causes leaky seals" and the double digit "fuel economy savings" myths.

 

[HighwayRanger]

This just in.......If Ford's factory fill is the same as they recommend in the owners manual, then they started with Motorcraft 5w20 Premium Synthetic Blend. That puts me at ease regarding going right to full synthetic. They must be comfortable with their tight manufacturing tolerances too!

 

[Titan]

Did you drive it home? Yes? Then, it's sufficiently "broken in", I prefer the term "run-in". Run Synthetic if you're going to either flog it or follow longer OCI's. Otherwise, good mineral oil will suffice.

 

[onion]

I've run into occasional break-in problems with modern diesel engines (specifically, certain Cummins engines made around '98-'99)... can't say about gassers. These ISB and ISC Cummins engines routinely had excessive blowby, largely due to (nearly) excessive piston-cylinder clearence. It wasn't a miracle cure... but an hour on the dyno running at full power often brought the blowby reading (in inches of H2O) into spec.

Also worked on lots of John Deere diesels. They reccomend their own "break-in oil", for the first oil change... just like they've done for the past 40 years. It's a cheap, non-detergent, mineral oil- 10W30 viscosity. No API ratings or anything fancy like that on the jugs. After the first oil change, they say to put in a good quality 15W40. Seems to work great... never saw a single blowby problem during my four years at a Deere dealer.

If I had just bought a new engine- especially something pretty large that's going to pull a heavy load- I'd run cheap 10W30 dino in it for one oil change- run the Hel1 out of it, then put whatever I felt like in it after that.

 

[onion]

I should clarify a point or two...

I never saw a single blowby problem on a relatively NEW Deere engine. Saw lotsa blowby on lotsa old junk, though.

And by "put whatever I felt like in it after that", I mean some good quality oil- synthetic or not, depending on preference and circumstance. One oil change of cheap, relatively thin oil (and hard driving) should make for a good break-in period.

 

[bmwtechguy]

Someone posted a link to a webpage about engine break-in some time back. Basically the real break-in occurs during the first 20 miles or 30 minutes of engine running. You get one chance to break it in properly by running it hard, on and off the throttle, up and down the rpm's for the first 20 miles or 30 minutes. He said that this was important to establish the correct seal in the cylinders to poston rings. If not done properly in some engines with Nikasil cylinder, higher oil consumption can result for rest of engine life. Synthetic oils are not so fundamentally different as to prevent break-in on a new engine, it just occurs slightly faster with a cheaper mineral oil, but certainly 30k miles is way too long. I've always heard on the diesels to go 10k miles as an average recommended break-in on mineral oil.

 

[ryansride2017]

Quote:

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06VtecV6, no offense but you are completely wrong.

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I wouldn't say completely wrong. I know a Chrysler engineer who states that it takes until 30K miles for all parts of the drivetrain to sufficiently break-in to yield the highest MPG readings the car can ever be expected to get. That being said, I definitely wouldn't wait until 30K miles before synthetics were used.

 

[bmwtechguy]

If I was you, I would switch it now to some buy one get one free Pennzoil Platinum from Advanced Auto. Great deal for some good oil.

 

[Lonnie]

Don't worry about the break-in. The lot boy did that for you when he bounced it off the rev-limiter just as the starter dis-engaged while he was moving your car around the lot before you showed up and took it home. The sales people follow up on the break in when they take your car out on test drives and tell the potential buyer to "hit it" and feel the power. But don't worry. They know that to warm up the engine you have to drive all the way off the lot.

 

[Steve S]

You can switch right now but I would do a couple of low mile oil changes to get the break in wear out. What about the rear end? And trans?

 

[06VtecV6]

Quote:

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Quote:

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06VtecV6, no offense but you are completely wrong.

---

I wouldn't say completely wrong. I know a Chrysler engineer who states that it takes until 30K miles for all parts of the drivetrain to sufficiently break-in to yield the highest MPG readings the car can ever be expected to get. That being said, I definitely wouldn't wait until 30K miles before synthetics were used.

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Finally.

 

[Jaybird]

You finally got one post that presents a hearsay recommendation. And I'm not trying to put down the information provided by ryan, but rather point out that his "I know an engineer that says so" information is a bit more credible than anything you have provided, but I always question second or third hand info...especially when it conflicts with what I already know to be the correct answer.
There may be some truths to what his eng. states... but we really need to hear it from the engs. mouth, or read his papers, before we can conclude anything.

I doubt very seriously that you can provide us with ANY credible information, from any credible sources, that would back up your 30k breakin statements. Perhaps you can show us a couple of dozen hearsay arguments...but I challange you to provide us any sort of credible information that backs up your assertions.

Folks want more than a simple opinion from someone who really has few clues. That is why these folks are asking these questions...to find out some credible truth and advise...not bloviated diatribes by those who are offering up nothing but specualtion, formed from nothing but what they percieve as credible information, when in fact all they are offering is their opinion. Slanted and misinformed opinion at that.

Maybe I'm wrong...so don't hesitate to offer up some credible information that would back up your assertion.
Seems to me that just basic hearsay information is far outweighing your claims...not a good sign. But do give us something to discuss, besides your opinion.

I won't give my opinion on the topic, as some have already hit the nail on the head. But I do get tired of having to scroll through your diatribes.
Are you trying to;
a)get some good info here?
b)give some good info here?
c)wanting to see yourself posted up in every thread that concerns your minds recent battle of what oil to put into your engine?

You may consider my post "mean" and could even see it as a personnal attack, which it is not. I simply feel that if I must suffer through miles and miles of your rambling ASCII, you should have to suffer some of my critisizms.

 

[mitchcoyote]

#@$%! Hath Spoken!!!

 

[mitchcoyote]

G O D