Break in oil

[Bigskyguy7911]

Hello all! I’m having a new 6.0 Powerstroke built. I consulted the builder about break in oil and they said they only recommend Motorcraft 15w40 or Rotella of the same grade. Every other builder I’ve researched require a diesel specific break in oil to comply with their warranty. Am I doing myself a disservice by not using the break in oil? In case it matters, the engine is being built with coated pistons and bearings…

 

[oliver88]

We use John Deere Break-In oil...specifically designed for breaking in diesel motors.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

Hello all! I’m having a new 6.0 Powerstroke built. I consulted the builder about break in oil and they said they only recommend Motorcraft 15w40 or Rotella of the same grade. Every other builder I’ve researched require a diesel specific break in oil to comply with their warranty. Am I doing myself a disservice by not using the break in oil? In case it matters, the engine is being built with coated pistons and bearings…

Is there a reason why you want to use a break in oil?

 

[fantastic]

Hello all! I’m having a new 6.0 Powerstroke built. I consulted the builder about break in oil and they said they only recommend Motorcraft 15w40 or Rotella of the same grade. Every other builder I’ve researched require a diesel specific break in oil to comply with their warranty. Am I doing myself a disservice by not using the break in oil? In case it matters, the engine is being built with coated pistons and bearings…

I'd go with a 10w-30 for a few thousand then switch over to 15w-40 or 5w-40. If that 10w-30 needs to be Motorcraft fine but there are plenty of Ford F1 rated oils outside of that brand. So long as it carries the F1 specification the brand doesn't matter.

 

[V70tdi]

Listen to your engine builder. He knows how he made the engine.

 

[PontiacHO]

What was recommended is fine. Change the oil and filter at the first 1,000 miles of use.

 

[Bigskyguy7911]

His instructions are to initially fill with the Motorcraft/Rotella, drive for 100 miles, then change the oil and filter. Repeat after another 1000 miles with same oil, then go to regular intervals (semi synthetic permissible). Can use full synthetic after 20,000 miles if I choose.

 

[Bigskyguy7911]

Is there a reason why you want to use a break in oil?

Because it doesn’t have the high friction modifier content. Low/no friction modifiers allow the high zinc level to help properly seat the rings according to the information on the break in oil. My builder is the only one I’ve found that doesn’t require the break in oil. I’ve never done this before and want to give my new engine the best start that I can. This is hopefully my forever truck with the amount of money I’m investing.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

Because it doesn’t have the high friction modifier content. Low/no friction modifiers allow the high zinc level to help properly seat the rings according to the information on the break in oil. My builder is the only one I’ve found that doesn’t require the break in oil. I’ve never done this before and want to give my new engine the best start that I can. This is hopefully my forever truck with the amount of money I’m investing.

Is this a race/track engine? My understanding is that break in oil chemically wears the engine so that it'll make max power immediately.
Regardless your bound by the warranty requirements of the engine builder.

 

[Pablo]

What was recommended is fine. Change the oil and filter at the first 1,000 miles of use.

This.

 

[Bigskyguy7911]

Is this a race/track engine? My understanding is that break in oil chemically wears the engine so that it'll make max power immediately.
Regardless your bound by the warranty requirements of the engine builder.

No, just a daily driver/tow vehicle. This is what some aftermarket engine builders require for break in https://www.drivenracingoil.com/products/dbr-15w-40-conventional-diesel-break-in-oil-gallon

 

[Fishstyx]

His instructions are to initially fill with the Motorcraft/Rotella, drive for 100 miles, then change the oil and filter. Repeat after another 1000 miles with same oil, then go to regular intervals (semi synthetic permissible). Can use full synthetic after 20,000 miles if I choose.

There’s your answer problem solved. Don’t second guess the person who rebuilt your engine.

 

[SureshR]

There’s your answer problem solved. Don’t second guess the person who rebuilt your engine.

More to the point it won't do your engine any harm to stay on Motocraft / Rotella in 10w30 or 15w40 CK4 for its entire service life, so why even bother?

 

[Hohn]

Listen to your engine builder. He knows how he made the engine.

Most engine builders know almost nothing about oil and frankly give awful advice.

Now, if it was someone like John Kaase, that's a different story. But most "engine builders" are just machinists with a specialty and know not much at all about oil.

 

[OM617YOTA]

Most engine builders know almost nothing about oil and frankly give awful advice.

Now, if it was someone like John Kaase, that's a different story. But most "engine builders" are just machinists with a specialty and know not much at all about oil.

Nobody here is going to reach into their own pocket and warranty the OP's engine if the engine builder declines a warranty claim because "someone on the internet knew better."

Use what the engine builder recommended. Hopefully they have thousands of engines under their belt, broken in with their recommended fluids, and it's been fine.

 

[EdgarH5]

I had my long block 6.0 powerstroke built by Kill Devil Diesel. I used motorcraft 15w40 on break in, 50 hours initial oil change and 3000 miles after. Used synthetic about after 20k as well. Have roughly 40k on it now. Been using chevron delo xle sb and xsp.

 

[RocketRod69]

Most engine builders know almost nothing about oil and frankly give awful advice.

Now, if it was someone like John Kaase, that's a different story. But most "engine builders" are just machinists with a specialty and know not much at all about oil.

you stepped into dangerous territory there! In my world (racing engines) almost all of the good engine builders know waaaay more about lubricants than the internet experts!

 

[Hohn]

you stepped into dangerous territory there! In my world (racing engines) almost all of the good engine builders know waaaay more about lubricants than the internet experts!

Right, but you're sticking with true expert builders with national followings and sterling reputations.

It really comes down to who the builder is. Simply saying "my builder said" means you could be getting anywhere from world class tribological insight to bubba's cousin sez. They both exist. And the existence of one doesn't prove anything about the existence of the other.


I'm not saying builders don't know anything. I'm saying there's a huge amount of variation in oil knowledge within the realm of people who are paid to assemble engines. And unless you know that they know what they're talking about, there's reason to take their advice with a grain of salt.


If you're builder cannot show you the honing profile used on the bores with a surface trace, you have reason for skepticism. Good shops will have something like a Marsurf of or Taylor Hobson Intra in house. Marginal shops will at least have sent out a block or two to validate their honing process by measuring on a machine like that.

Many engine builders probably can't tell you exactly what the surface finish of the bores is with a measured profile-- they can only tell you the process used on it. I.E it was honed on the CV616 with a 180 grit, then a 300 grit and they can probably tell you the bore dimensions checked in a couple places. Can they tell you amount and order? The Ra long/short delta on the plateau? Probably not.

Builders exists in different tiers. And their oil knowledge varies as widely as their level of engine knowledge.

 

[johnmyster]

I'm skepical of anyone that, based on chemistry, recommends using a break in oil that can be found on the walmart shelf. Even the internet experts know those formulations aren't constant. Saying you've been breaking in motors for 15 years using T5, for example, shows you're a rube. The only thing that hasn't changed about a given oil over time is the color and the name on the bottle. Or specifying conventional vs synthetic when we all know grp II and grp III came out of the same hole in the ground.

 

[kschachn]

I'm skepical of anyone that, based on chemistry, recommends using a break in oil that can be found on the walmart shelf. Even the internet experts know those formulations aren't constant. Saying you've been breaking in motors for 15 years using T5, for example, shows you're a rube. The only thing that hasn't changed about a given oil over time is the color and the name on the bottle. Or specifying conventional vs synthetic when we all know grp II and grp III came out of the same hole in the ground.

So what’s the special sauce the factory uses for break-in?