Synthetic blend for break in oil

[thejudges69]

I was recently at a machine shop, the owner mentioned this to me and I've never heard of it. My new engine grenaded after 13K miles, no fault of anyone but myself and surely not the oil. Anyways, this new engine will be all new internals again. But when I built the last one I put 15w40 Guardol synthetic blend in it, the engine have very little consumption and no blowby. The liners looked good when removed. Not shiny, but I honestly expected them to not be as shiny as they were.

The machine shop owner said use a straight 15w40 for break in, and that synthetic blend will not allow things to seat and will polish the liners instead. I wasn't aware of this. Soooooooooo

Can anyone shed a little light on this?

 

[wpod]

It is B.S.

 

[sloinker]

I used HPL, a site sponsor for my break in oil. He makes some interesting points about its formulation and why.

HPL Break-In 15W40

I see @High Performance Lubricants was on here commenting on another post. I just broke in a cam with HPL break-in oil and have actually started and driven the car off the lift, down the street and back onto the lift. I am thinking of just leaving this oil in for the next few months as I finish...

bobistheoilguy.com

 

[thejudges69]

It is B.S.

Can you elaborate? Was this a thing of the past? Or does it carry more references in race engines? Or car engines? Or any other type of engine?

 

[thejudges69]

I used HPL, a site sponsor for my break in oil. He makes some interesting points about its formulation and why.

HPL Break-In 15W40

I see @High Performance Lubricants was on here commenting on another post. I just broke in a cam with HPL break-in oil and have actually started and driven the car off the lift, down the street and back onto the lift. I am thinking of just leaving this oil in for the next few months as I finish...

bobistheoilguy.com

I will read that while I'm sitting here

 

[thejudges69]

I used HPL, a site sponsor for my break in oil. He makes some interesting points about its formulation and why.

HPL Break-In 15W40

I see @High Performance Lubricants was on here commenting on another post. I just broke in a cam with HPL break-in oil and have actually started and driven the car off the lift, down the street and back onto the lift. I am thinking of just leaving this oil in for the next few months as I finish...

bobistheoilguy.com

So I'm curious what @High Performance Lubricants would have to say about a heavy duty diesel. Different break in oil? Is it even necessary? Typical first change is 3-5k miles anyways. This one will be a little different just cause I filled the oilpan with antifreeze when it came apart.

 

[sloinker]

So I'm curious what @High Performance Lubricants would have to say about a heavy duty diesel. Different break in oil? Is it even necessary? Typical first change is 3-5k miles anyways. This one will be a little different just cause I filled the oilpan with antifreeze when it came apart.

Toss David a PM. He is pretty responsive to questions.

 

[wpod]

Syn oil so slick is won't let the engine was marketing from decades ago, Lots of vehicles these days come from the factory with syn or syn blend oils.

 

[dlundblad]

He is wrong, but at the same time, it’s best to do what they say just to not create waves in the event of an issue. A 15w40 won’t hurt a thing.

New engines come with synthetic and a blend is relative in today’s world.

I was told not to use a 5w40 in my tractor so here I am running a 10w30 like a good little manual abiding owner until the warranty expires in 2024. I use 5w40 in everything else as does my dad.

 

[thejudges69]

He is wrong, but at the same time, it’s best to do what they say just to not create waves in the event of an issue. A 15w40 won’t hurt a thing.

New engines come with synthetic and a blend is relative in today’s world.

I was told not to use a 5w40 in my tractor so here I am running a 10w30 like a good little manual abiding owner until the warranty expires in 2024. I use 5w40 in everything else as does my dad.

They aren't building the engine, just refurbishing the rods, he made this suggestion in chat yesterday. I just never knew. The engine is an 04 build date, I'm assuming it came with conventional 15w40 from the factory, either chevron or mobile.

Syn oil so slick is won't let the engine was marketing from decades ago, Lots of vehicles these days come from the factory with syn or syn blend oils.

This blend is super slick also, is that a trait of synthetic or synthetic blends? This is my first with this type of oil, I always used conventional. But the phillips is cheaper and a synthetic blend then chevron, I figured a better oil for lesser price would be a good thing. Being this engine is an 04, would it's age affect what oil I should use?

 

[High Performance Lubricants]

The short answer is Synthetic oil or blends will hurt break in is not true. The additives are what makes the difference. A good old fashioned CI4 plus would be perfect for you.
David

 

[dlundblad]

They aren't building the engine, just refurbishing the rods, he made this suggestion in chat yesterday. I just never knew. The engine is an 04 build date, I'm assuming it came with conventional 15w40 from the factory, either chevron or mobile.

This blend is super slick also, is that a trait of synthetic or synthetic blends? This is my first with this type of oil, I always used conventional. But the phillips is cheaper and a synthetic blend then chevron, I figured a better oil for lesser price would be a good thing. Being this engine is an 04, would it's age affect what oil I should use?

I realize he’s rebuilding. The term break in applies to both new and freshly rebuilt.

 

[alarmguy]

Your engine blowing up had nothing to do with the oil type that you chose.

 

[4WD]

Syn oil so slick is won't let the engine was marketing from decades ago, Lots of vehicles these days come from the factory with syn or syn blend oils.

Yep - In fact, lots of expensive - high performance cars come FF with synthetic …

 

[4WD]

Can you elaborate? Was this a thing of the past? Or does it carry more references in race engines? Or car engines? Or any other type of engine?

What was the engine ?

 

[thejudges69]

Your engine blowing up had nothing to do with the oil type that you chose.

I said that already. I know.

 

[CBODY67]

"Break-in" is a controlled wear-in, plus cure time for new blocks. First recommendation, years ago, was to not use syn for initial break-in as it would not allow enough wear-in activity as normal oil would. By the time an engine gets to the assembly plant, it's already had its 30 minutes of fame on the dyno at the engine plant. It was always assumed that if a Corvette engine (or Shelby-Dodge turbo) had Mobil1 as the recommended oil, that that's what it had in it from the factory, but I don't know that this was ever confirmed, for sure, back then. But it was supposed to get that oil at its first oil change.

IF your reman/rebuilt engine builder/shop recommends a certain viscosity and type of oil AND there is some sort of warranty on the work and such, follow their recommendations in that area. When the oil gets "1 qt down", then change it to what you want.

 

[thejudges69]

"Break-in" is a controlled wear-in, plus cure time for new blocks. First recommendation, years ago, was to not use syn for initial break-in as it would not allow enough wear-in activity as normal oil would. By the time an engine gets to the assembly plant, it's already had its 30 minutes of fame on the dyno at the engine plant. It was always assumed that if a Corvette engine (or Shelby-Dodge turbo) had Mobil1 as the recommended oil, that that's what it had in it from the factory, but I don't know that this was ever confirmed, for sure, back then. But it was supposed to get that oil at its first oil change.

IF your reman/rebuilt engine builder/shop recommends a certain viscosity and type of oil AND there is some sort of warranty on the work and such, follow their recommendations in that area. When the oil gets "1 qt down", then change it to what you want.

There is no warranty, it was more of a suggestion. They aren't building my engine, only refurbishing connecting rods, I'm building it. And being down a quart could go fairly quick in a 10 gallon system on a new engine. Shouldn't buy never know.

David @High Performance Lubricants has been a big help through this with an english flush, it wasn't mentioned in this thread, cause it wasn't relevant to the question, but he's helping be neutralize and remove the excess glycol from the antifreeze that went into the oil pan upon failure.

 

[PontiacHO]

I was recently at a machine shop, the owner mentioned this to me and I've never heard of it. My new engine grenaded after 13K miles, no fault of anyone but myself and surely not the oil. Anyways, this new engine will be all new internals again. But when I built the last one I put 15w40 Guardol synthetic blend in it, the engine have very little consumption and no blowby. The liners looked good when removed. Not shiny, but I honestly expected them to not be as shiny as they were.

The machine shop owner said use a straight 15w40 for break in, and that synthetic blend will not allow things to seat and will polish the liners instead. I wasn't aware of this. Soooooooooo

Can anyone shed a little light on this?

Have the machinist recommened the oil he prefers. use it. you can’t be wrong if issues occur.

 

[thejudges69]

Have the machinist recommened the oil he prefers. use it. you can’t be wrong if issues occur.

I'm good with the oil I use. They're only doing the rods, not building the engine.