Brand New CTS 3.6L - First Oil Change

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I'm currently at the 6000km mark on this new car. The manual says to change the oil according to the GM Oil Life Monitor. In my experience with the OLM in my 07 TBSS, oil changes typically are called for at between 7500 and 9000kms which is fine I guess. My question is regarding the FIRST oil change on a new car. I've always been of the mind that the first change should be performed around 3000 miles or 4800kms. Dealer recommends to follow the DIC. I own the car, not leased so I want to be sure as I'd like to keep the car for many years.

Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
Oh boy.....this is gonna get wicked.

/flamesuit on:

If it was me, I would change it sooner than later on a new engine. I like to get the new engine wear metals out instead of allowing them to stay. The OLM can't detect extremely dusty conditions and isn't calculating current mileage in with its calculations.

/flamesuit off
 
FYI OLM shows 65% oil life remaining. Am I expected to change out the factory fill at over 15000kms? I don't think that is wise.
 
Here is the Edmunds.com review of the Pontiac G8GT and their note regarding oil:

Not only did our 2008 Pontiac G8 GT provide just under 36,000 trouble-free miles, but it did so under sometimes stressful conditions — which resulted in a $684.67 bill for new rear tires.

But for all that, our G8 required only three oil changes. That's three, not the 12 oil changes that might have been required back in the days when you had to change your low-grade mineral oil every 3,000 miles. We just let the Pontiac's electronic sensors determine when the oil had to be changed. And since the cost of each oil change averaged $35, we saved a lot of cash, not to mention a lot of time, by listening to the sensors. Also we saved a lot of oil, using 27 quarts instead of 108.

"Inside Line," you're saying, "my daddy taught me to change the oil every 3,000 miles. He'd die and then roll over in his grave if I told him about a 13,000-mile interval between oil changes. Got any proof this works?"

Yes, we do! Just before the G8's final oil change, Senior Consumer Advice Editor Phillip Reed sent a sample of the G8's oil to Blackstone Labs for analysis. The sample came back good on all fronts, but just barely so. Turns out that the G8's sensor was correct, and so 13,000 miles proved to be the perfect mileage to ensure that the oil's goodness had been used to its fullest, since there wasn't much life left in it. But another lesson here is, when the service light turns on, get it done fast, because the oil is done.
 
You own the car, do what you want.

FWIW, we run a fleet of very heavy GMC Savana 3500 extended vans with 6.0 gas motors. We also own some Silverados with 5.3.

Since we got our first OLM equipped vehicle in 2004 I have used it to decide when to change. We have one van now with 400k miles and several with over 250. All run excellent and have quiet smooth running engines. We typically use Amsoil but have used other brands of synth when on sale.

I firmly believe the whole 'break in' thing is an old wives tale no longer applicable to new vehicles with modern oil in them.
 
Originally Posted By: TRI_SS
I'm currently at the 6000km mark on this new car. The manual says to change the oil according to the GM Oil Life Monitor. In my experience with the OLM in my 07 TBSS, oil changes typically are called for at between 7500 and 9000kms which is fine I guess. My question is regarding the FIRST oil change on a new car. I've always been of the mind that the first change should be performed around 3000 miles or 4800kms. Dealer recommends to follow the DIC. I own the car, not leased so I want to be sure as I'd like to keep the car for many years.

Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks.


You can change the oil anytime you want. I bought a 09 Saturn Vue last
year and changed out the factory fill at 1500 km and the 2nd oil change
at 6500 km. Now I have to figure out if I should use synthetic or not.
We're only putting on about 1000 km/month.
 
I think the CTS OLM's go off around 12,000 miles or 20,000 KM's in normal driving. If you want to change the oil sooner. I say change it at 50%, then again when it hits below 10%. Don't reset the OLM.
 
Just looking around, I clicked on the M1 ad banner above and it is the factory fill on every Cadillac that leaves the factory so you have a quality oil that can go the distance. If it makes you feel better change the filter after a few thousand miles and you won't have to worry.
 
I am going to assume you have the 3.6l direct injection engine. Regardless, you just spent a lot of cash on a car – dumping the factory fill is not going to cause you miss a car payment so do it & do it now. Your next question is going to be what oil to use. The car came with M1 5W30 and that might the right choice but as many will say, any brand named 5W30 SM GF-4 synthetic will provide you good service. Not sure I buy that school of thought but no sense to argue it.

However, if you spend some time in the UOA section you will see that the 3.6L DIs in the Lambda platform (Enclave, Acadia, Outlook, Traverse) trash dino and synthetic oils well before the OLM says to change and the OLMs in the Lambdas are calibrated assuming dino oil. The UOAs for the 3.6l DIs in the GM sedans show oils not getting beat up quite as much. Simply based on the UOAs being turned in on this engine I am suspected that running the OLM to 0% even if using synthetic will not result in 6 digit plus mileage with trouble free operation.

I have the 3.6L DI in a Lambda platform and I dumped the FF @ 750 miles. The oil had been in the engine approximately 6 months.
 
It wouldn't hurt to do the first oil change eary. If the engine came with syn oil then you are draining out good oil if you do change it before the oil moniter turns on.
 
TRI_SS,

My brothers 09' CTS dealership changes his oil every 6 months even though the OLM tells him it's not ready. My brother only drives 8 miles to work and back so he doesn't put on many miles during the calendar year anyway.

The only odd thing is that Mobil 1 is specified on the cap but the dealership actually uses Castrol "Syntec" instead. Go figure?

Durango
 
Thanks for the replies everyone.

I have the 3.6DI LLT and has FF M1 5W30.

I use it as well on my TBSS as it was FF as well. The SS does not burn a drop so far at 62,000kms. I bought it with approx 8400kms and the OLM was at 0%. I changed the oil right away. Not sure if the FF had been changed out already or if that was the first one.

My previous Caddy was an '06 SRX, also FF with M1. First change was according to the OLM at approx. 9000kms. It started to consume oil at a rate of about a litre every 2000kms at around 26,000kms on the clock. Don't really know why, it was never abused. Did a "late" (accordingly to old school thinking) initial change contribute?

So far the CTS doesn't burn anything and if changing out the FF with break in particles will contribute to longevity, I think I'll do it. I'm a little confused as to why some say to follow the OLM and others agree it good to get the contaminates out sooner rather than later. Costs aside.

Durango,

Your brother's dealership should only be using oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M. I don't think Castol Syntec meets the standard.
He should question them on it.
 
I would change the oil since you are at 6k on a new engine.
[And the filter, of course!]

The initial oil gets a beating from more heat , more blow by, and particulate matter of all kinds. The OLM does not test oil - it uses algorithims and other math.
You can use the OLM in the future. It has some value.
 
Originally Posted By: TRI_SS

So far the CTS doesn't burn anything and if changing out the FF with break in particles will contribute to longevity, I think I'll do it. I'm a little confused as to why some say to follow the OLM and others agree it good to get the contaminates out sooner rather than later. Costs aside.


"If there's a technical problem and half the people say to solve it one way, and the other half another, then you have a pretty good idea that it's probably fine to do it both ways."

I'm pretty sure the reason is simply that there's never been catastrophic failures as a result from changing FF to OLM. Also that it probably affects longevity much less significantly than other factors - like how you drive, how you do later maintained, luck of the draw, etc - that no scientific conclusion can be drawn.

So it's just up to what you're comfortable with. I'm personally in the "possible break-in metals, early change" camp.

Originally Posted By: TRI_SS

Your brother's dealership should only be using oil that meets GM Standard GM4718M. I don't think Castol Syntec meets the standard.
He should question them on it.


Absolutely. Syntec 5W-30 is probably one of the least stout oils I've used. HTHS is pretty much the lowest of its class and just at borderline (2.9), and that probably shears down below spec (cSt @ 100C sheared all the way down to 9.2 on that UOA, into a heavy 20 weight).
 
i changed my new ecotec at 2750 miles and went with m1 0-30...GM says you dont have to but i dont like idea of new engine metals floating around in oil
 
Hi guys,

My brother being a suit and tie guy doesn't get involved into things like that cuz he figures if the dealership wants to use Syntec" then it's fine cuz it's under warranty. You know the kind.

Me I'm more the opposite.

Durango
 
I've got a 2008 CTS, 3.6DI, 304hp engine. I changed the factory fill oil out at 5k miles to get the "new engine" debris out. It doesn't cost much and, to me, is worth while. I was thinking of getting a 2010, but darn it - they cheapened some things out so I'm sticking with my 26k mile 2008. Been a great car, much better than the older style was.
 
Every vehicle I've ever bought new - car or motorcycle - I've changed oil after ~900-1000 miles. You can only break-in an engine once, and I have no issues dumping a load of cheap oil early on.
I don't need a flamesuit here. I'll take whatever anyone wants to throw at me on this one.
While I have no doubt that new engines probably are manufactured much better than when I began driving/buying vehicles, I still would not break-in a new motor and let the factory fill sit there longer than that.
 
Changed out the oil today at 7000kms with 58% left according to the DIC. This is the first change out of the FF. It looked pretty dark. The filter seemed to have a few specks of metal on it, nothing to be concerned about I would think.

I filled up the used containers and found there was about a quarter litre missing even though the dipstick showed full.

If the stick showed full is there a quarter litre still in the engine and if so should I "short" the refill amount by that much or put the amount the manual calls for?

I put 5.7 as called for.
 
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