brakes seems weak after replacing caliper, hose

[ziggy]

Hello all Today, i replaced my front calipers, 1998 toyota corolla. Went flawless. Used a digital torque adapter on a 3/8 ratchet, to tighten the banjo bolts washes, 22 ft.lbs. one i did 22.9..
The master cylcider got low, but not empty. I bled the rear wheels, and front,..fornt i did like 3 times. now if car is tured off, the brake pedal is tight. turn the key to not start, but electrical works, its a tad loose then tightens up. turn the car on, and pedal seems spongy, meaning i have too pump it 2-3 times to get a good brake. I put new rotors on too. NAPA premium rotors, and eclipse NAPA calipers. I also replaced the brake hoses,NAPA brand, checked 5 times..after pumping, driving after each wheel done, NO leaks. nothing but clear liquid was coming out the tube bleeding. bottle, tube, method.
def nothing is leaking. i do have the cheapest napa brand pads on. even the guy thier said he dosnt recoomend them too anyone. it was a deal, the alipers and pads for less money package.
Started at farthest wheel, after everything, right rear, left rear, right front, left front (closest master cylinder). so why do i have too pump 2-3 times too get good braking? the pads? takes time with new hoses calipers to set in? still air in the system? if so cant be, cause i made sure the fluid on all 4 bleeder had 0 bubbles.
dre around after all is said and done 2 times.opened hood..master cyclinder was still full. no leaks at brake hoses, lines..what gives?

 

[Taildragger]

Think I found the problem " turn the car on". LOL

Sounds like there is still some air in there somewhere. Sometimes brake bleeding can be a 'black art'.

 

[fdcg27]

This can only be air in the system.
An outside possibility is that you have a weak hose that's expanding under pressure, but air in the system would be my first bet.
Get a helper and bleed all four corners correctly.
Bet your issue goes away.

 

[Lubener]

If you are sure you got all the air out, you may have an issue with the master cylinder. While bleeding, you should not press the pedal all the way to the floor. Over time, a ridge wears in the bore of the master cylinder, by pressing the pedal to the floor, the piston goes over that ridged area and the piston get damaged and will start bypassing.

 

[Billbert]

Did you make sure the bleeders on the calipers are at the top?

 

[Bluestream]

You have air in there...not sure why you bleed that rears when you only changes caliper on the front

 

[Donald]

Bleed again with 2 people.

 

[Merkava_4]

Fluid might be slipping passed the piston in the master cylinder. That will make it feel like air in the system.

 

[ziggy]

Thats what i thought, or made sense. like i said, when i was doing the driver wheel, installed new brake hose, i had put a shoptowl inbetween thehose, the ring* got saturated, and dripped fast kinda, into a oil change container i had under it. In the meantime, I was finadeling with the new caliper, removing the bracket, palstic plug from banjo bolt hole, new brake anti ratlecips,..realized oh! check the master cyclinder.
The level had dropped a bit under the low level mark. SO thats why i bled all brakes after...just in case.
and yet, thiers still air in it. no bubbles came out at all. not leaking. i dont have someone else too help. so thats why im using the oldschool bottle and plastic hose submerged in brake fluid.
would one of those air pump gauge contraptions work?i do have one. tells a pressure, but can also be used, with container attachment, too pull, via the trigger, flid air form bleeder.
would that work better than the one man method>?

 

[EdwardC]

I'd try bleeding again. Maybe try bleeding while lightly tapping the calipers with a hammer to try dislodge some pockets of air.

 

[ziggy]

Yeah, thatss whati plan on tomorrow, using the oneman method,empty cotainer1/3fullof brake fluid.
see, im thinking..i looked in the master cylinder when it was low while prepairing the caliper. i could see a plasticmesh just below the low level marking. I wondering if air got stuck or something formthmaster fluid level being so low? i bled that line2 times, and before bleeding,pumped the brakepedal so fluid air squirted out the bleeder. then connected a hose and bottle.
When i put the new napa hose on..thiers a nipple in the middle. Was the brake line hole supposed to go over that nipple? or just screw the brake line too hose fitting on,aka meaning theline dosnt fit over the metal nipple, inside the brake hose?
i mean if it was,...i didnt do that. i just attached and screwed theline too hose.
outside of that,i cant see why thierd still be any airleft in it?i went through, 2 calipers, 1 and quarter emtpy bottleof dot3supertech,andaround 75% napa brake fluid, 32ozbottle think it was 32..BIG bottle. an yet, the brake pedal need 203pumps before car brakes good.i bled my brkaesa month ago..oneman method , workedlike a charm one time around. here i did the hoses, calipers, banjo bolts,3 times bled basically perside fornt of car,and this is the outcome,
so im thinking its the brake line wasnt attached right too hose, or something with air and master cylinder. i do knowtheycan be become damaged air dry...butmine had between emtpy and lowlevel.

 

[ziggy]

Someof the time, bleeding,not all, the brake went too the floor. i know our not supposed to do this when bleeding. thepedal would feel tense, thenlet go, nad press again,then go toofloor,well almost too floor...
could i have damaged mymaster cylinder?it wast 100% ofthe time,ide say like4-6times the pedal went too near floor,2times too just above floor.

 

[The Critic]

One man bleed?

Get another person, a friend or a neighbor. If you're trying to get air out of the system, the 2 man method is best for that.

 

[andyd]

you have air in the system. Either from allowing the MC to get too low or a loose connection. I get better results doing the job alone than I do with another person.