Brakes: Any Idea What could Cause This

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My MKZ has 46,000 miles on it, and probably 20,000 or better of those are highway miles. I've put 16,000 miles of those on it myself, and since I bought the car from in the family I know the history of it going back to new.

A few months ago, I had all the wheels off and saw what I'd consider normal wear on all four sets of brakes, and also even wear across both axles. That was on factory pads all around.

The car is riding on Michelin Primacy MXM4s that were installed about 14,000 miles ago. I had the car aligned when I had the tires put on, and have had two alignment checks since. The last was back in June and it was in spec.

Two weeks ago, I was on the road and started hearing a faint scrape from the right rear every time I stepped on the brakes. I stopped and looked at it, but didn't see anything abnormal. About 50 miles from home, another stop showed a groove about the width of my thumb in the rotor, but I kept on trucking since I was so close and just parked the car until I could attack it. BTW, by the time I was home, the rotor was grooved pretty much the whole width of the pad. I had to move the car in the driveway a few times, and it made a pretty viscious sound when moving with moderate brake pressure, but would go away if there was only light pressure.

What I found when I pulled the pads on that side concerned me...I'm attaching a photo of them. As you can see, the outside pad is down to the metal backing, while the inside is worn pretty unevenly. The wear on the rotor matches these.

The left rear pads looked what I'd consider perfectly normal for ~50K miles, and probably had about 40% life left with even wear across them.

I've been warned of the potential of a sticking caliper, but it doesn't seem to fit here. For one thing, I'd think I'd have heard a constant scrape once it started to act up. As I said, it took moderate brake pressure to make any sound at all. The car tracked straight-that was one of the things that I checked when it started acting up, and I'd expect a sticking pad to cause it to pull.

Also, with new pads and rotors on the rear axle, the car continues to track straight. I have about 200 miles on them now, mixed city and interstate driving. When I first installed them, I did several stops with the handbrake only(the handbrake uses the main brakes, it's not drum-in-disk) and it both came to a stop fine and again tracked straight while braking(whether foot brake or hand brake). I've not seen any evidence that anything is amiss.

Does anyone have any ideas about what could have caused this, and if so what I should be on the lookout for?

As a side note, I borrowed the rear brake retractor tool from Autozone to do this job. After using it and seeing how easy it makes things, I'm never again going to mess around with channel locks or even the cheap "cube" retractors again. For the first one I did, it took me longer to find the right die and get the tool set up than it did to actually get the piston back in...

IMG_5670.jpg
 
The vehicle is 8 years old. How frequently have you been doing a brake fluid flush?
 
Originally Posted by Trav
Something is sticking, slide pins, saddle corrosion or a sticking park brake assy or cable would be my guess.


Originally Posted by SteveSRT8
Just as Trav pointed out, something is sticking.


+3
 
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A good sign to when the ratcheting type calipers start sticking is when the parking brake is used. Let it sit over night with the parking brake set. Release the parking brake next morning, put it in drive or reverse, and you will feel the grab if they are sticking any.

Mine has always been the caliper itself sticking, and not caused by the parking brake cable. Good idea though to check the parking brake cables to see if it's causing a problem.
 
Usually this indicates rust on the pad seat/shims, and the pad cant move freely so it drags a bit. Also like others have said check the slide pins etc. Ive seen the pad seated cocked in the housing and stuck from rust on the shims and ears, worn to metal on the leading edge and at 3-4mm on the rear edge.
 
Thanks guys.

To answer the question on brake fluid-I think it still had the factory fill until I bought the car from my dad(May 2017). I changed everything but the transmission fluid within a month of getting it(I still need to do that).

The pads did have a fairly significant amount of rust on the back. It took a bit of effort with a rubber mallet to get the caliper off, and the clips weren't terribly inclined to let go of the pads either.

After I cleaned everything up(there was some rust on the piston faces that I was afraid to mess with) I did put brake grease on the sliding pins and on the "ears" of the pads where they clip in. Of course, I replaced the clips also. The pads got a coat of the orange CRC goop on the back.

I do use the parking brake every night, and I don't notice any noise from the brakes when I first start moving in the morning-trust me when I say that at least for the first few days after I installed these, I was attentive for anything out of the ordinary to the point of rolling down the windows and shutting off every noisemaker in the car I could when I would first start in the morning.
 
RUST & Wear caused this!
Are the calipers sticking or is it the pads sticking in the hold down bar slots/clips. Maybe they needed a good cleaning, bleeding brake fluid and some new hardware the last time(a few months ago) that you looked at the pads. Even though everything looked as normal at that time, this is when they probably needed a good cleaning/lubing sliders and maybe replace the brake hardware/clips/spring.
 
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All the things suggested by others are possible causes for the premature failure. Since only one of the rear brake calipers had a problem, you can probably rule-out a stuck proportioning valve. If the vehicle were mine, I would replace both rear calipers, rotors etc and do a complete fluid flush. If you're doing the work yourself, a matched set of rebuilt calipers for an 8 year old MKZ is $160. Two rotors will cost $90, pads will cost $30 and 1 quart of brake fluid is $10.

Total cost $290. If you get lower-grade components, all that can be had for about $220. The cost of not stopping in a straight line on a wet road could cost a lot more than that.

Ray


PS: FWIW, I was an ASE mechanic in 1976 (it was called NIASE back then) and have done more than a handful brake jobs over the years and have seen countless stuck rotors just like yours. Some of the common causes are defective pads (a big void or hunk of sintered metal), failure of the various retaining springs (some brake pads have wire clips that serve as separating springs), complete rust-out of the buffer plates (which keeps the caliper piston from sticking to the pad) and rust between the caliper and piston due to a leaky seal.

Until you take it apart and do a "failure analysis", you won't know for sure.
 
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There are some flex brake lines where the inside breaks down and the pieces plug stuff. The vendor is out there probably selling that crap to everyone at a discount. I have heard they are biodegradable in some misguided to make green cars.

Rod
 
I'm willing to bet the friction pads just decided to completely chip off and fall off the backing plate.
 
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