Brake pad shims
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Originally Posted By: toyota62
Hi Guys.
Is it ok to discard anti squeal brake pad shims? The reason is one of the shim keep bending and making a loud noise.
Cheers.
It's no big deal. I usually use Disc Brake Quiet anyhow.
Hi Guys.
Is it ok to discard anti squeal brake pad shims? The reason is one of the shim keep bending and making a loud noise.
Cheers.
It's no big deal. I usually use Disc Brake Quiet anyhow.
No harm. Aftermarket pads already come with shims.
can high temp grease be used as a replacement for disc brake quiet?
Yes, synthetic brake caliper grease is preferred over the traditional disc brake quiet.
Originally Posted By: spyghost
can high temp grease be used as a replacement for disc brake quiet?
The high-temp brake grease is for the caliper pins. The properties are completely different from those of Disc Brake Quiet. DBQ's adhesive trait keeps the pads from "rattling about". Grease simply isn't going to do that...
can high temp grease be used as a replacement for disc brake quiet?
The high-temp brake grease is for the caliper pins. The properties are completely different from those of Disc Brake Quiet. DBQ's adhesive trait keeps the pads from "rattling about". Grease simply isn't going to do that...
Last year I asked for Disk Brake Quiet at Oriely's when I bought pads for my truck. The always to be relied on counter man pointed to the little packet of Sil-Glyde on the counter. I decided to chance it, using the big tube I already had and would be using on everything else. I did both my truck and car with it between the pads and caliper. No squealing on either in over 6 months.
If it is bending, you have a problem. It is the wrong one or improperly installed.
Many pads have no shims at all. No harm at all if they are on or off.
They are there strictly for noise control [squealing].
But like mentioned, brake grease is for sliding pins and surfaces, and is no way comparable to anti squeak sauce that you put on the back of the pads. You will probably need the sauce, so count on buying some. One little bottle will do many brake jobs.
Many pads have no shims at all. No harm at all if they are on or off.
They are there strictly for noise control [squealing].
But like mentioned, brake grease is for sliding pins and surfaces, and is no way comparable to anti squeak sauce that you put on the back of the pads. You will probably need the sauce, so count on buying some. One little bottle will do many brake jobs.
Does anyone have a source for JUST the oem shims? IM running HAWK pads on my F-350 DRW and every now and again in get some squeal that would be taken care of by shims. Unfortunately my shims are LONG gone.
And before anyone says buy a different brand of pad im VERY happy with the hawk superduty pads on my truck.
And before anyone says buy a different brand of pad im VERY happy with the hawk superduty pads on my truck.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
But like mentioned, brake grease is for sliding pins and surfaces, and is no way comparable to anti squeak sauce that you put on the back of the pads. You will probably need the sauce, so count on buying some. One little bottle will do many brake jobs.
That simply isn't true.
The rubbery anti-squeal stuff is for pads without shims. Most premium pads have shims on them which does the same thing as the sauce. When you use the rubbery anti-squeal stuff with shims, it can cause the shim to separate from the backing plate, which is why CRC and Permatex warn AGAINST using their anti-squeal products on pads with shims.
The synthetic caliper greases, especially ones containing Moly, do a great job of metal to metal lubrication, and as a result, do a great job of eliminating noise.
But like mentioned, brake grease is for sliding pins and surfaces, and is no way comparable to anti squeak sauce that you put on the back of the pads. You will probably need the sauce, so count on buying some. One little bottle will do many brake jobs.
That simply isn't true.
The rubbery anti-squeal stuff is for pads without shims. Most premium pads have shims on them which does the same thing as the sauce. When you use the rubbery anti-squeal stuff with shims, it can cause the shim to separate from the backing plate, which is why CRC and Permatex warn AGAINST using their anti-squeal products on pads with shims.
The synthetic caliper greases, especially ones containing Moly, do a great job of metal to metal lubrication, and as a result, do a great job of eliminating noise.
Originally Posted By: Dualie
Does anyone have a source for JUST the oem shims? IM running HAWK pads on my F-350 DRW and every now and again in get some squeal that would be taken care of by shims. Unfortunately my shims are LONG gone.
And before anyone says buy a different brand of pad im VERY happy with the hawk superduty pads on my truck.
A dealer is probably the only easy source. They shouldn't cost much, if they're available separately. Otherwise, I'd just apply some DBQ and be done with it.
Does anyone have a source for JUST the oem shims? IM running HAWK pads on my F-350 DRW and every now and again in get some squeal that would be taken care of by shims. Unfortunately my shims are LONG gone.
And before anyone says buy a different brand of pad im VERY happy with the hawk superduty pads on my truck.
A dealer is probably the only easy source. They shouldn't cost much, if they're available separately. Otherwise, I'd just apply some DBQ and be done with it.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
The rubbery anti-squeal stuff is for pads without shims. Most premium pads have shims on them which does the same thing as the sauce. When you use the rubbery anti-squeal stuff with shims, it can cause the shim to separate from the backing plate, which is why CRC and Permatex warn AGAINST using their anti-squeal products on pads with shims.
The synthetic caliper greases, especially ones containing Moly, do a great job of metal to metal lubrication, and as a result, do a great job of eliminating noise.
Naturally, if the pads have shims (that work), the DBQ isn't needed. The question is one of what do you do when you don't have shims.
The problem with grease is that it does nothing to secure the pads. The DBQ keeps the pads in position and prevents them from shifting or rattling about relative to the caliper pistons. The grease is a great thing on the pins and other sliding surfaces, such as the guide-ways for the pads.
The rubbery anti-squeal stuff is for pads without shims. Most premium pads have shims on them which does the same thing as the sauce. When you use the rubbery anti-squeal stuff with shims, it can cause the shim to separate from the backing plate, which is why CRC and Permatex warn AGAINST using their anti-squeal products on pads with shims.
The synthetic caliper greases, especially ones containing Moly, do a great job of metal to metal lubrication, and as a result, do a great job of eliminating noise.
Naturally, if the pads have shims (that work), the DBQ isn't needed. The question is one of what do you do when you don't have shims.
The problem with grease is that it does nothing to secure the pads. The DBQ keeps the pads in position and prevents them from shifting or rattling about relative to the caliper pistons. The grease is a great thing on the pins and other sliding surfaces, such as the guide-ways for the pads.
Actually, what I said is VERY true.
Just try putting red anti squeal sauce on your brake's sliding pins, if you want to prove otherwise. [don't do it]
Just try putting red anti squeal sauce on your brake's sliding pins, if you want to prove otherwise. [don't do it]
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Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Actually, what I said is VERY true.
Just try putting red anti squeal sauce on your brake's sliding pins, if you want to prove otherwise. [don't do it]
A straw man argument from you, mechtech?
I used to use the orange colored, rubbery anti squeal goop on the backing of the front pads. These front pads used to come with a thick, sticky adhesive on them, which was damaged, if you had to remove the pad temporarily for any reason. I then always cleaned off the original adhesive and replaced with the rubbery sauce. I never had a problem with that method.
The rear pads never came with an adhesive and per the factory manual, brake grease may be put on the back of the pad and on areas where the pad touches the carrier. I have always done this with good results.
Now the front brake pads come without any adhesive (for improved heat transfer from pad to caliper). According to the instruction, brake grease (the same you use on guide pins) is used on contacting surfaces (brake piston/pad backing interface, areas where the pad backing contacts the carrier) to prevent squealing. A product like Plastilube can also be used. I agree with Michael's statement concerning pads that do not come with an adhesive backing.
Actually, what I said is VERY true.
Just try putting red anti squeal sauce on your brake's sliding pins, if you want to prove otherwise. [don't do it]
A straw man argument from you, mechtech?
I used to use the orange colored, rubbery anti squeal goop on the backing of the front pads. These front pads used to come with a thick, sticky adhesive on them, which was damaged, if you had to remove the pad temporarily for any reason. I then always cleaned off the original adhesive and replaced with the rubbery sauce. I never had a problem with that method.
The rear pads never came with an adhesive and per the factory manual, brake grease may be put on the back of the pad and on areas where the pad touches the carrier. I have always done this with good results.
Now the front brake pads come without any adhesive (for improved heat transfer from pad to caliper). According to the instruction, brake grease (the same you use on guide pins) is used on contacting surfaces (brake piston/pad backing interface, areas where the pad backing contacts the carrier) to prevent squealing. A product like Plastilube can also be used. I agree with Michael's statement concerning pads that do not come with an adhesive backing.
Originally Posted By: rshunter
Originally Posted By: Dualie
Does anyone have a source for JUST the oem shims? IM running HAWK pads on my F-350 DRW and every now and again in get some squeal that would be taken care of by shims. Unfortunately my shims are LONG gone.
And before anyone says buy a different brand of pad im VERY happy with the hawk superduty pads on my truck.
A dealer is probably the only easy source. They shouldn't cost much, if they're available separately. Otherwise, I'd just apply some DBQ and be done with it.
No such luck their only available with Motorcraft pads and lets just say im NOT a fan of those pads. The OEM Ford pads were good but the motorcraft pads ARE NOT the factory brake pads.
Originally Posted By: Dualie
Does anyone have a source for JUST the oem shims? IM running HAWK pads on my F-350 DRW and every now and again in get some squeal that would be taken care of by shims. Unfortunately my shims are LONG gone.
And before anyone says buy a different brand of pad im VERY happy with the hawk superduty pads on my truck.
A dealer is probably the only easy source. They shouldn't cost much, if they're available separately. Otherwise, I'd just apply some DBQ and be done with it.
No such luck their only available with Motorcraft pads and lets just say im NOT a fan of those pads. The OEM Ford pads were good but the motorcraft pads ARE NOT the factory brake pads.
Originally Posted By: rshunter
Naturally, if the pads have shims (that work), the DBQ isn't needed. The question is one of what do you do when you don't have shims.
The problem with grease is that it does nothing to secure the pads. The DBQ keeps the pads in position and prevents them from shifting or rattling about relative to the caliper pistons. The grease is a great thing on the pins and other sliding surfaces, such as the guide-ways for the pads.
Most aftermarket pads on the market will use either a riveted, clip-on, floating or integral shim. This probably applies to more than 90% of the pads on the market. Therefore, for most applications, there's absolutely no reason to use the DBQ chemical.
Also, the concept of "gluing" a brake pad is outdated. The newest designs actually have "floating" shims that allow for some movement, IIRC.
Naturally, if the pads have shims (that work), the DBQ isn't needed. The question is one of what do you do when you don't have shims.
The problem with grease is that it does nothing to secure the pads. The DBQ keeps the pads in position and prevents them from shifting or rattling about relative to the caliper pistons. The grease is a great thing on the pins and other sliding surfaces, such as the guide-ways for the pads.
Most aftermarket pads on the market will use either a riveted, clip-on, floating or integral shim. This probably applies to more than 90% of the pads on the market. Therefore, for most applications, there's absolutely no reason to use the DBQ chemical.
Also, the concept of "gluing" a brake pad is outdated. The newest designs actually have "floating" shims that allow for some movement, IIRC.
Originally Posted By: toyota62
The after market pads that i use havnt got shims.Removed the exsisting shims and applies disc brake quiet so far so good.
I had two shims attached to back of each brake pad.Noise came from the shims.
What brand/model aftermarket pads are you using?
The after market pads that i use havnt got shims.Removed the exsisting shims and applies disc brake quiet so far so good.
I had two shims attached to back of each brake pad.Noise came from the shims.
What brand/model aftermarket pads are you using?
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