Brake Pad question

[Wheel366]

I won these EBC yellow stuff pads for my Impreza a couple of years ago and am now just needing pad replacement. I ordered a set of EBC plain coated rotors.

Looking at the pads, I see different what I think are coefficients (I am ignorant of such stuff). Attached are pictures of the pads themselves and part numbers. Looks like the rear pads are GG and the fronts are EE.

Any thoughts on these? I double checked part numbers and they are the correct parts for my car.

 

[edyvw]

They are mild track pad. They need some heat, and if you don't bed them properly, they will squeek.

 

[benjamming]

Yes, you've ascertained the coeffiencts correctly.

 

[Asterix]

I've had Yellow Stuff pads on the front of my '04 350Z for a while, and they're just about gone. I've not heard a peep from them, and they work quite well cold or hot. Nothing at all wrong with different grip pads front and rear.

From the factory, my Z was badly biased to the rear. I put $10 pads on the rear and Yellow Stuff on the front to fix that.

 

[TiGeo]

I really like Yellow Stuff as an agreesive street pad. They are fine when it's cold. They need to be bedded exactly like EBC recommends, it's a bit drawn out. They are definately not a full-on track pad but on street tires and a novice driver or an experience driver that understand what they are working with/maintains driving within their limits they can work for some track use.

 

[Wheel366]

I really like Yellow Stuff as an agreesive street pad. They are fine when it's cold. They need to be bedded exactly like EBC recommends, it's a bit drawn out. They are definately not a full-on track pad but on street tires and a novice driver or an experience driver that understand what they are working with/maintains driving within their limits they can work for some track use.

According to EBC, there really isn't a procedure unless you are going to track, which I am not. Did you have them on before they added this bedding compound? Did you do something different? I always bedded doing to x amount of stops from 35-40mph with moderate peddle then another x amount with faster speeds and heaver peddle. I wasn't going to do anything with these since they say to drive normally.

I apologize if you have seen this before.

"The Ultimax, Greenstuff, Yellowstuff, and Redstuff EBC pad grades come with a brake in coating that scrubs the rotor surface, accelerates pad seating times, and provides a strong brake effect for the first 100 miles of use as your pads seat themselves. After the first 100 miles or so, unless you are going to drive aggressively, there is nothing more to do meaning – most drivers happily use and enjoy their brake’s excellent performance for tens of thousands of miles after this point. If that’s your way of driving nothing more needs to be explained. Just enjoy your brakes."

https://www.ebcbrakes.com/race-motorsport-articles/bedding-in/

 

[chris719]

The DOT mu ratings don't really tell you much in my experience, I would not worry.

 

[TiGeo]

According to EBC, there really isn't a procedure unless you are going to track, which I am not. Did you have them on before they added this bedding compound? Did you do something different? I always bedded doing to x amount of stops from 35-40mph with moderate peddle then another x amount with faster speeds and heaver peddle. I wasn't going to do anything with these since they say to drive normally.

I apologize if you have seen this before.

"The Ultimax, Greenstuff, Yellowstuff, and Redstuff EBC pad grades come with a brake in coating that scrubs the rotor surface, accelerates pad seating times, and provides a strong brake effect for the first 100 miles of use as your pads seat themselves. After the first 100 miles or so, unless you are going to drive aggressively, there is nothing more to do meaning – most drivers happily use and enjoy their brake’s excellent performance for tens of thousands of miles after this point. If that’s your way of driving nothing more needs to be explained. Just enjoy your brakes."

https://www.ebcbrakes.com/race-motorsport-articles/bedding-in/

I've used their pads for years, they always had a break in which was basically drive it for a few '00 miles for the red break-in material to clean the rotor/pad mating surface/get pads mated. Then bed them typical way - half dozen HARD slows from 60 or so down to 10 then drive 5 min without touching them to cool. I suppose for street use it really doesn't matter and yeah, I use their track compounts (RP-X and Bluestuff NDX) and am used to bedding brakes in regardless. Maybe they just figured nobody really does this crap for street use so don't bother even asking haha

 

[Wheel366]

I've used their pads for years, they always had a break in which was basically drive it for a few '00 miles for the red break-in material to clean the rotor/pad mating surface/get pads mated. Then bed them typical way - half dozen HARD slows from 60 or so down to 10 then drive 5 min without touching them to cool. I suppose for street use it really doesn't matter and yeah, I use their track compounts (RP-X and Bluestuff NDX) and am used to bedding brakes in regardless. Maybe they just figured nobody really does this crap for street use so don't bother even asking haha

Well, you and I are driving much different cars! You got the VM's with some power. I have an Impreza that sometimes can't get out of its own way.

Now, if this was my S4, then that is a much different story.

 

[D1dad]

No shims? I’ve got red stuff and the ultimax 2 and would probably use the ultimax moving forward. I have a squeak coming from the front of the reds in reverse that I can’t eliminate. Different hardware, grease, more grease, less grease and no grease. It’s still there. Plus if you use their grey painted rotors, the paint fills the slots on the pads. The rotors are fantastic if you can get past a couple of quirks and will last forever. They used to make a blackish colored rotor that the paint wasn’t an issue if you can find them.

 

[RaymondP]

Used Red and Yellow Stuff on my Porsche as both a daily driver and on track. Yellow is more aggressive but creates more dust. Definitely Yellow (or Blue) for the track. Think you will be fine on the road with the Yellow Stuff. Just follow break-in as mentioned above and when very cold anticipate a longer initial stop. Yellow Stuff will wear out the rotors faster than OEM. I am a big proponent of Cryo-treated rotors on replacement, available from TireRack and other sources. Smooth rotors are fine for you, vs drilled and/or slotted. Expect to get two to three times the life with cryo-rotors. Was not a believer until I tried!