Brake pad glazing

[DCDG]

I recently did a brake job on a 13 year old chevy truck with akebono pads,this is what I found -

Break‑in behavior​

Akebono pads do not require a formal bedding procedure. Their friction is fully cured at the factory, so they don’t need the “10 hard stops from 60 mph” routine.

Generic ceramics often:------

• Need bedding to burn off resins
• Smell or smoke during first use
• Leave uneven deposits if not bedded correctly

Akebono pads create a stable transfer film with normal driving. Generic ceramics often need aggressive bedding to stabilize the friction layer.

You're correct.

Bosch blue
Power stop Z17 are similar why so many believe they need to smoke the wheels off the car to mate pads and rotors on every application is beyond me. So many good pads and rotors become a failed brake job because of this old school thought process. There are other brands that also don't require a smoking hot bedding procedure especially if they're thermo scorched.

 

[TheReal_DW]

Glad everything is better so far

The noise and feel is of stick slip is still apparent, even after the 60-10 method being done a bunch of times. Do I need to manually re-surface the rotors and pads? They aren’t exactly what I’d call dull but they aren’t super shiny. I’ve heard 120 grit sandpaper in circular motions on the rotors and 120 on a flat table in figure eight motions for the pads. Let me know please.

 

[Mainia]

CRC Brake Quiet and yes you do need to get some heat into the pad by bedding it. I don't care what they say. You will never get the correct pad transfer if you drive like a Grandpa. You need to be able to get enough heat to transfer a micro layer of the pad to the rotor. No need to do any sanding to anything, but a final brake clean cleaning of the rotor so no CRC or grease is there. And be hard on your brakes for a while, to get them to get some wear to mate with the rotor you are use to seeing. You can baby them after the pads have some better contact mating. Rotors should have a very light cast color of blue from the correct heat and pad material transfer. Looks like you got some heat on your rotors. You just need CRC Brake Quiet and more time with a tad more heat input. You don't want to over heat the rotor and pads either. One you do it enough, you get good at "getting there" quick and at the right temps.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007IAJU1...ref_=asc_df_B007IAJU1A&plpRedirect=mhFallback

 

[DCDG]

CRC Brake Quiet and yes you do need to get some heat into the pad by bedding it. I don't care what they say. You will never get the correct pad transfer if you drive like a Grandpa. You need to be able to get enough heat to transfer a micro layer of the pad to the rotor. No need to do any sanding to anything, but a final brake clean cleaning of the rotor so no CRC or grease is there. And be hard on your brakes for a while, to get them to get some wear to mate with the rotor you are use to seeing. You can baby them after the pads have some better contact mating. Rotors should have a very light cast color of blue from the correct heat and pad material transfer. Looks like you got some heat on your rotors. You just need CRC Brake Quiet and more time with a tad more heat input. You don't want to over heat the rotor and pads either. One you do it enough, you get good at "getting there" quick and at the right temps.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007IAJU1...ref_=asc_df_B007IAJU1A&plpRedirect=mhFallback

A good brake job shouldn’t need brake quiet

 

[willbur]

CRC Brake Quiet and yes you do need to get some heat into the pad by bedding it. I don't care what they say. You will never get the correct pad transfer if you drive like a Grandpa. You need to be able to get enough heat to transfer a micro layer of the pad to the rotor. No need to do any sanding to anything, but a final brake clean cleaning of the rotor so no CRC or grease is there. And be hard on your brakes for a while, to get them to get some wear to mate with the rotor you are use to seeing. You can baby them after the pads have some better contact mating. Rotors should have a very light cast color of blue from the correct heat and pad material transfer. Looks like you got some heat on your rotors. You just need CRC Brake Quiet and more time with a tad more heat input. You don't want to over heat the rotor and pads either. One you do it enough, you get good at "getting there" quick and at the right temps.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007IAJU1...ref_=asc_df_B007IAJU1A&plpRedirect=mhFallback

Drive like a "GrandPa"? Those I know drive like they are 18 but with weak eyes and slo reflexes LOL

 

[Mainia]

A good brake job shouldn’t need brake quiet

Don't use it then.

After about 50 brake jobs under my belt and fixing many "my brakes are squeaking" as per the OP as just ONE example. I use Brake Quiet, and never had one comeback when I had a Audi/VW repair shop. There are zero issues with Brake Quiet, so why not use it. I never want to touch a come back brake job. It also stops lazy pad pullback in the long term in our sandy/salty Minnesota winters. Using it was ALWAYS a win win for me, and still is.

Example: A neighbor had a Caravan that had a full brake job by the dealer and she had squeaky brakes. They tried 3 times to fix it and put 2 completely new sets in of pad and rotors and still had squeaky brakes. The lady was livid as to why a dealer can't fix it. They wiped their hands of her at after try # 3 and the squeaky brakes where there for my try #4. I use Brake Quiet and by God, no squeaky brakes for 4 years till the van was totaled by an accident.

 

[DCDG]

Don't use it then.

After about 50 brake jobs under my belt and fixing many "my brakes are squeaking" as per the OP as just ONE example. I use Brake Quiet, and never had one comeback when I had a Audi/VW repair shop. There are zero issues with Brake Quiet, so why not use it. I never want to touch a come back brake job. It also stops lazy pad pullback in the long term in our sandy/salty Minnesota winters. Using it was ALWAYS a win win for me, and still is.

Example: A neighbor had a Caravan that had a full brake job by the dealer and she had squeaky brakes. They tried 3 times to fix it and put 2 completely new sets in of pad and rotors and still had squeaky brakes. The lady was livid as to why a dealer can't fix it. They wiped their hands of her at after try # 3 and the squeaky brakes where there for my try #4. I use Brake Quiet and by God, no squeaky brakes for 4 years till the van was totaled by an accident.

Don't own a shop and not an automotive mechanic have done quite the many brake jobs here myself and for others fam and friends I just use a thin nearly translucent coating of ags sil-glyde to the caliper fingers and piston face. No need in my garage to stock extra supplies. We all got our secrets of the trade eventually we end up at the same place just different roads.

 

[shortyb]

In my experience, ProACTs are like Goldilocks. Not hot enough? they won't transfer a good pad layer to the rotor. Too hot? the residual resins will glaze. Just right? It is just enough heat to transfer a proper amount of pad material through a good bedding, but not overdoing it to the point of overheating the pads and making everything look like a Krispy Kreme doughnut . It is a pretty fine line with the Akebonos.

I don't care what they say about "already burnished, stable transfer with normal driving" blah blah either. Sure, they are "scorched" from the factory, but that is more to burn off resins inherent with ceramic compounds to help prevent outgassing fade than it is to provide a suitable transfer. Plus, a lot of shops and DIYers want a quick slap job and don't/won't do an appropriate bedding as it takes a bit of time to do it right. Again, with my experience of ProACTs, when they squeak or make some noise, it's time to re-bed. Carefully.

Also, with regard to noise, for as many different braking systems as there are out there, are just as many variables that create harmonics (vibrational noise). Sometimes different things can be used, Brake Quiet being one of them, to attenuate the noise. Sometimes just providing a clean surface where everything moves without restriction can keep things quiet. All cars are different and why those remedies are made.

Ceramic compounds have definately changed the automotive braking world, but they have their own set of quirks too. Maybe not like semi-metallics (my favorite for the best braking performance), but they aren't perfect either.