Brake pad glazing

[DCDG]

I recently did a brake job on a 13 year old chevy truck with akebono pads,this is what I found -

Break‑in behavior​

Akebono pads do not require a formal bedding procedure. Their friction is fully cured at the factory, so they don’t need the “10 hard stops from 60 mph” routine.

Generic ceramics often:------

• Need bedding to burn off resins
• Smell or smoke during first use
• Leave uneven deposits if not bedded correctly

Akebono pads create a stable transfer film with normal driving. Generic ceramics often need aggressive bedding to stabilize the friction layer.

You're correct.

Bosch blue
Power stop Z17 are similar why so many believe they need to smoke the wheels off the car to mate pads and rotors on every application is beyond me. So many good pads and rotors become a failed brake job because of this old school thought process. There are other brands that also don't require a smoking hot bedding procedure especially if they're thermo scorched.

 

[TheReal_DW]

Glad everything is better so far

The noise and feel is of stick slip is still apparent, even after the 60-10 method being done a bunch of times. Do I need to manually re-surface the rotors and pads? They aren’t exactly what I’d call dull but they aren’t super shiny. I’ve heard 120 grit sandpaper in circular motions on the rotors and 120 on a flat table in figure eight motions for the pads. Let me know please.

 

[Mainia]

CRC Brake Quiet and yes you do need to get some heat into the pad by bedding it. I don't care what they say. You will never get the correct pad transfer if you drive like a Grandpa. You need to be able to get enough heat to transfer a micro layer of the pad to the rotor. No need to do any sanding to anything, but a final brake clean cleaning of the rotor so no CRC or grease is there. And be hard on your brakes for a while, to get them to get some wear to mate with the rotor you are use to seeing. You can baby them after the pads have some better contact mating. Rotors should have a very light cast color of blue from the correct heat and pad material transfer. Looks like you got some heat on your rotors. You just need CRC Brake Quiet and more time with a tad more heat input. You don't want to over heat the rotor and pads either. One you do it enough, you get good at "getting there" quick and at the right temps.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007IAJU1...ref_=asc_df_B007IAJU1A&plpRedirect=mhFallback

 

[DCDG]

CRC Brake Quiet and yes you do need to get some heat into the pad by bedding it. I don't care what they say. You will never get the correct pad transfer if you drive like a Grandpa. You need to be able to get enough heat to transfer a micro layer of the pad to the rotor. No need to do any sanding to anything, but a final brake clean cleaning of the rotor so no CRC or grease is there. And be hard on your brakes for a while, to get them to get some wear to mate with the rotor you are use to seeing. You can baby them after the pads have some better contact mating. Rotors should have a very light cast color of blue from the correct heat and pad material transfer. Looks like you got some heat on your rotors. You just need CRC Brake Quiet and more time with a tad more heat input. You don't want to over heat the rotor and pads either. One you do it enough, you get good at "getting there" quick and at the right temps.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007IAJU1...ref_=asc_df_B007IAJU1A&plpRedirect=mhFallback

A good brake job shouldn’t need brake quiet