brake line life

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Mar 21, 2004
Messages
31,934
Location
Near the beach in Delaware
I am doing what should have been a recall on my 2001 Jeep and replacing the Teves calipers with Akebono. Jeep calls it a conversion. The Jeep has 118K and I assume original brake lines. The new front lines are $24 each. Should I replace them at this point or continue forward with just calipers.
 
Last edited:
With the age of the vehicle I would go ahead and replace the lines and hoses. My 1999 Bonnevilles brake line broke on me about 40 miles from home about 2 years ago. Although I had some braking power...it wasn't much.
 
Check to make sure the brake lines are not rusted. Replaced my rear brake lines before they broke. However the front one rusted through a year + later. They broke and I had to be towed to the mechanic. Luckily it happened in my driveway. However the backing out part is downhill. It was a heck of a ride down the driveway
shocked2.gif
!

Whimsey
 
Flex hoses never seem to go more than 15 years. If they have cracks, I would switch them out. Brake lines will rust fast unless you oil spray them; Then they stay like new for 15-20 years.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Brake lines will rust fast unless you oil spray them;


They also rust from the inside/out. Brake fluid absorbs water so it's important to occasionally change it.
 
It depends on where you live. In a warm dry climate steel lines can last a long time. Around here, 10 years is pretty good. Some vehicles (mostly Fords) will have steel brake lines rust out and burst in three to five years from new.
 
Originally Posted By: yonyon
It depends on where you live. In a warm dry climate steel lines can last a long time. Around here, 10 years is pretty good. Some vehicles (mostly Fords) will have steel brake lines rust out and burst in three to five years from new.

I agree. We have no snow therefore no salt on the streets, also relative humidity is reasonable at around 30-40% all year, so we have no rust on car parts. The brake lines on my 18 years old 280+k miles LS400 are original no rust is visible. Same for 12 years old E430.
 
I'd personally replace them. If money is a concern and you want to check them, have someone step on the brakes HARD (engine running) with the vehicle stopped, and watch to see if the lines bulge or expand at all. If they do, they need replacement. If not, they still have at least a little more life left in them.
 
Brake fluid absorbs water, but this HELPS, not hurts, caliper and line life.
Instead of a possible pool of water somewhere, it is harmlessly held in a mixed suspension.
 
Originally Posted By: Warstud
Originally Posted By: Bluestream
Brake lines will rust fast unless you oil spray them;


They also rust from the inside/out. Brake fluid absorbs water so it's important to occasionally change it.


Most of the rust comes from outside. Ford does not recommend that brake fluid ever be changed.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Brake fluid absorbs water, but this HELPS, not hurts, caliper and line life.
Instead of a possible pool of water somewhere, it is harmlessly held in a mixed suspension.


Over time the moisture becomes trapped in the internal sections of the brake system. When this water reaches 212º F the water turns to steam. Many times air in the brake system is a result of water that has turned to steam. The build up of steam will create air pressure in the system, sometimes to the point that enough pressure is created to push caliper pistons into the brake pad. This will create brake drag as the rotor and pads make contact and can also create more heat in the system.
 
I've had lines ranging from 70 to 30 years old that were still good and also my share of bad ones. Hosing out the underside of the vehicle is key to keeping the metal ones solid.
The flex-lines should be replaced when they crack or bulge. When I can, I go with braided stainless lines for the flexible ones.
 
Originally Posted By: Warstud


Over time the moisture becomes trapped in the internal sections of the brake system. When this water reaches 212º F the water turns to steam. Many times air in the brake system is a result of water that has turned to steam. The build up of steam will create air pressure in the system, sometimes to the point that enough pressure is created to push caliper pistons into the brake pad. This will create brake drag as the rotor and pads make contact and can also create more heat in the system.


Not quite. If the water were held in suspension as it would be in oil, this would be true. Water is miscible in brake fluid (DOT5 excepted) and as such the boiling point for the mixture is somewhere between the boiling point of clean water and the boiling boint of the brake fluid. The more water you've got in there the cooler it can be and boil so less water is better but in any case the critical temperature will be higher than 212 degrees F. One way or the other, if you do manage to get your water to boil, the steam won't create air. Any good alchemist can tell you that transmuting matter like that isn't quite so easy. The steam will eventually condense back into liquid form when it cools.

The steam also won't do much as far as generating pressure and activating the brakes with the pedal released. With the pedal released it will just push fluid back into the reservoir through exactly the same path that allows fluid to enter the master as pads wear. The opposite problem, that of not generating pressure, is more serious and is real. Because steam is compressible, fuid displaced in the master does not all go to displacing fluid at the slaves because it also has to compensate for the loss of volume as the steam compresses under pressure. This means that with steam present you get a soft pedal feel and inadequate brake apply.
 
Originally Posted By: SS1970chrysler
I've had lines ranging from 70 to 30 years old that were still good and also my share of bad ones. Hosing out the underside of the vehicle is key to keeping the metal ones solid.
The flex-lines should be replaced when they crack or bulge. When I can, I go with braided stainless lines for the flexible ones.


Where to get braided SS lines? The flex ones for my Jeep seem to be more than a plain 16" piece of flex line.
 
I was getting some bulging on the hoses on my 82 MB. Just replaced them. No big deal...

So 30 or so years for me. None of my other vehicles have needed them, though "officially", IIRC the lines are rated for 6 years.
 
When looking for aftermarket rubber brake lines, are there any preferred brands such as Raybestos, Bendix, Beck Arnley, etc.? Are any particularly good or bad?
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: SS1970chrysler
I've had lines ranging from 70 to 30 years old that were still good and also my share of bad ones. Hosing out the underside of the vehicle is key to keeping the metal ones solid.
The flex-lines should be replaced when they crack or bulge. When I can, I go with braided stainless lines for the flexible ones.


Where to get braided SS lines? The flex ones for my Jeep seem to be more than a plain 16" piece of flex line.


You can get them from a lot of vendors. I bought a couple sets from this guy before:
http://stores.ebay.com/BRAKE-HOSES-UNLIMITED
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom