Brake job tomorrow, some questions

[xBa380]

I am going to be replacing my rotors/brake pads on my 2008 xB... I am at 67K miles now, stock rotors are showing grooving in the rear so I decided to replace. The ceramic pads I put on at around 25K are not doing it for me anymore, so I am going with a different pad (Hawk HPS), although I loved the lack of any dust at all with the ceramics. Just lacking the bite I am after, mostly.

My question is, after I remove the old rotors and clean up the area a bit. Should I use copper antiseize on the rear of the rotor (that mates to the hub) to prevent sticking issues in the future? Mind you, the rotors I bought are powerslot, which have a coating to prevent any rust. So I am thinking not... But want to hear the opinions.

Also, I am going to try and pry off the darn dust boots on the slider pins... I feel like I will tear them when I have tried in the past... Is there any easy method to get them off? For those who have worked on other Toyota brakes? Wondering if there is some trick or just pull till it gives?

Thanks!

 

[morris]

DO use anti-seize compound on ALL threads, just a little, NO globs, just a thin coat.

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: xBa380
Also, I am going to try and pry off the darn dust boots on the slider pins... I feel like I will tear them when I have tried in the past... Is there any easy method to get them off? For those who have worked on other Toyota brakes? Wondering if there is some trick or just pull till it gives?

Rotate them until they bunch up and compress (like wringing out a wet rag). They will pull out very easily after that.

 

[yonyon]

Originally Posted By: xBa380
Should I use copper antiseize on the rear of the rotor (that mates to the hub) to prevent sticking issues in the future?


Eww! Gross!

The thought of anti-seize on brakes brings to mind images of twisted cars dangling from treetops with globs of people-goo dripping out of them. (It's probably not going to harm anything other than my stomach.)

Maybe some nice cheerful gear oil instead?

 

[Corvette Owner]

Good choice, you will LOVE HAWK HPS pads.

I too had put ceramic (GM DELCO) on my Corvette, they warped my rotors and didn't stop well.

I then went to HAWK HPS pads, they are great. They dust less than the stock GM pads (but more than ceramics) and stop GREAT ! I use a california dash duster to "touch up clean" wheels in between car washes.

Don't forget to bed in the pads as directed.

 

[sciphi]

I'd put antiseize onto the hub face itself where it contacts the rotor, and only use a thin coat. It doesn't take much, and prevents alloys from sticking onto the iron rotors after a winter's salt.

 

[xBa380]

Originally Posted By: Tegger

Rotate them until they bunch up and compress (like wringing out a wet rag). They will pull out very easily after that.


Thanks! I will try that!

Appreciate the feedback everyone!

 

[The Critic]

Came across this thread tonight:

http://www.siennachat.com/forum/70-sienn...liper-pins.html

Come to think about it, I think I have experienced sticky slide pins after using many over-the-counter brake greases to lubricate pins. Perhaps this is why my brakes have never felt as smooth and linear after the first brake job.

After reading that thread, I think I am going to go tomorrow and order a tube of the specified Toyota caliper grease. It is definitely different than what other automakers specify. Now I'm curious if it can be used on other makes/models.

 

[Bgallagher]

I would use the specific grease for the pads. Antisieize is good but you can buy packets of pad grease that is intended for just that duty. Just my .02

 

[xBa380]

The Critic,

Thanks for that link. I have found quite a few other examples after seeing that link of people using excellent brake lubes with Toyota sliding pins and having issues down the line. I will just avoid touching the sliding pins this time around and try to get a hold of some Toyota grease and do it later. From what I see, it generally only comes with a brake rebuild kit. My brother works at a dealership so I will see if he can get it.

So for today, I will just move the pins in and out a bit to slide some of the grease around. Last time I checked they still felt alright, sliding normally. So why touch what is not broke I suppose? Hopefully they all still feel OK.

I plan to use anti-seize on threads and permatex purple ceramic grease on all pad/caliper surfaces. I have done brakes before, so should not be much issue for me. I hope the rotors come off my car without a hassle though... My girlfriends Mazda 3 was the worst in this regard. Took me hours to get all those rotors off due to rust.

 

[mechtech2]

Anti seize on the rotor/hub is a good idea. Also on the rotor/wheel interface.
But a LITTLE, not a lot.
It is very important to CLEAN the surfaces - no hard deposits or rust spots. Scrape, sand. scotchbrite, untill you get to shiny metal.
And if you use it on threads, be real light with it. You should reduce tightening torque with it.
I'd take the pins out and clean and grease them - maybe they need a smoothing /dresing. Also clean and grease the bores.

 

[xBa380]

Well this brake job is turning to [censored]... Spent last hour and half trying to do rear passenger... The caliper bracket has the slide pins stuck in it. I am trying everything to get it out. It won't budget. I may have to replace the bracket... Autozone doesn't have them nor can they order the part, they told me dealer only. Called my brother to see when he can do... I called another dealer and they are telling me 116$ per side.

Oy.

 

[stephen9666]

Can you post a pic?

I just looked at the pins on Rock Auto. They aren't threaded. Can you just drive them out with a punch and then replace them if they're damaged? It looks like the pins are cheap.

I should note, I'm not familiar with this application, so perhaps there's something I'm missing.

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: xBa380
Well this brake job is turning to [censored]... Spent last hour and half trying to do rear passenger... The caliper bracket has the slide pins stuck in it. I am trying everything to get it out. It won't budget. I may have to replace the bracket

Clamp a Vise-Grips securely to the head of the pin (PUT THE BOLT BACK IN THE PIN FIRST!).

Can you now use the Vise-Grips to wiggle the pin while pushing towards the inboard of the car? You're trying to "walk" the pin out of the hole.

 

[xBa380]

Update:

Was able to get the pins out of the caliper brackets... The fronts came out no problem, only the rear gave me issues. Passenger side only one got stuck, the drivers side both were. After using a method of an impact gun, penetrating lube and some time I was able to free them. The seized ones had almost NO lube at all in them. Dried up or whatever. All the salt spray the past few years also destroyed the pins. Simple corroded beyond saving up where the boot seals to the head of the pin. My brother ordered me all new pins for the rear, and boots for each wheel to replace them.

So at least I don't have to replace the bracket now. I need to pick up some more brake cleaner and finish cleaning out the brackets really well.

I knew my rear braking power was messed up... My my rear passanger rotor showed only about 3/4" contact with the pad. And with the pins being seized up all over, no wonder performance has been lack-luster.

So tomorrow I will pick up the parts from the dealership and finish the job. The new powerslot rotors look incredible, machining is top notch. Excellent quality.

Cleaning and prepping everything for tomorrow when I can finish it up!

Big pain. But its going!

 

[xBa380]

When I replace the sliding pins, what grease should I use for the pins to prevent any problems down the road? I have two options...

I have Permatex Ceramic Lubricant (24125) and the high temperature lubricant that came with my Hawk HPS pads. I plan to use the Permatex stuff on everything, but what would be better option for the pins? Or does it not make any difference?

I read conflicting stuff on many greases drying up and stuff. Not like the OEM stuff did any better for me... So I want the best option at this point to prevent any issues in the future!

 

[HTSS_TR]

Sometimes I think that paying $40-60 labor per axle to a mechanic to do the brake is worth it. I tried to replace the rear brake of my LS400 couple weeks ago but could not get the bolt off the caliber without an impact gun. I gave up and drive it to my trusted mechanic and paid $50 for labor.

 

[xBa380]

For that very reason, I plan to make sure to put anti-seize on every bolt I put back on. Avoid the chance of anything getting stuck again. The pins, however, I plan to check every year and re-lube to prevent getting stuck again.

 

[Donald]

Syl-Glide or a close spelling at NAPA is for disc brake caliper pins.

For unknown reasons the tube has stayed in my garage rather than going back to my basement and thus when I need a dab of grease for whatever, I just use the Syl-Glide.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: xBa380
For that very reason, I plan to make sure to put anti-seize on every bolt I put back on. Avoid the chance of anything getting stuck again. The pins, however, I plan to check every year and re-lube to prevent getting stuck again.


A friend who teaches auto-shop at a technical high school says to never try to revive a caliper pin. If it needs anything more than a wiping with brake cleaner, then replace it. No wire brushing off rust, etc.

If the caliper pin sticks a week after doing your brakes, you will not know it for 6 months maybe longer.