Brake flush on '18 VW Atlas

[TiGeo]

Under "most" driving conditions it is a non-issue. But technically there is a difference in viscosity and can affect operational characteristics under very low temp conditions.

TYP200:
Product properties:
Condition Homogenous, transparent
Color yellow
Boiling point min. 280° C/536° F
Wet boiling point min. 198° C/388,4° F
Viscosity at –40° C/–40° F max. 1,400 mm²/s
Viscosity at +100° C/212° F 2.2 to 2.8 mm²/s
Water content max. 0.20%
https://www.ate-brakes.com/media/2322/ate_td006_dot4-typ200-web.pdf

SL6 (DOT4 LV):
Product properties: Condition Homogenous, transparent
Color yellow Boiling point min. 265° C/509° F
Wet boiling point min. 175° C/347° F
Viscosity at –40° C/–40° F max. 700 mm²/s
Viscosity at +100° C/212° F 1.7 to 2.3 mm²/s
Water content max. 0.20%
https://www.ate-brakes.com/media/2320/ate_td007_dot4-sl6-web.pdf

And for me, that will a non-issue here in VA but great info - thank you!

 

[edyvw]

I run TYP200 in all 3 vehicles, and both VW and BMW call for LV, and Toyota for DOT3.

 

[TiGeo]

I run TYP200 in all 3 vehicles, and both VW and BMW call for LV, and Toyota for DOT3.

There really isn't a downside that I can see to a higher-performance/temp brake fluid as long as you realize it needs to be changed more frequently but to the point above, didn't realize there was a viscosity issue.

 

[edyvw]

There really isn't a downside that I can see to a higher-performance/temp brake fluid as long as you realize it needs to be changed more frequently but to the point above, didn't realize there was a viscosity issue.

Critic is right. LV is go to on all European vehicles last 10-15 yrs. There is definitely case to be made for it when maximizing ABS/ESP effectiveness in very low temperatures. Also, on Atlas or my Tiguan, any DOT4 will cut it. There is no way you will come to point to have air lock in fluid that is 2 yrs. or less old in such vehicle with such brakes. ATE SL6 will do just fine. I personally use TYP200 just bcs. I buy it in bulk as I do frequent changes on BMW due to tracking. SL6 is definitely not appropriate on track.

 

[TiGeo]

Critic is right. LV is go to on all European vehicles last 10-15 yrs. There is definitely case to be made for it when maximizing ABS/ESP effectiveness in very low temperatures. Also, on Atlas or my Tiguan, any DOT4 will cut it. There is no way you will come to point to have air lock in fluid that is 2 yrs. or less old in such vehicle with such brakes. ATE SL6 will do just fine. I personally use TYP200 just bcs. I buy it in bulk as I do frequent changes on BMW due to tracking. SL6 is definitely not appropriate on track.

To be honest, I just grabbed it at FCP Euro with some other stuff I was getting and didn't really look at what I was buying...thought this was the "normal" stuff not higher-performance. Again, it's not cold here in central VA, this will work fine until next change out. I over-paid $5 for high performance fluid in my family car..hahahaha

 

[The Critic]

To be honest, I just grabbed it at FCP Euro with some other stuff I was getting and didn't really look at what I was buying...thought this was the "normal" stuff not higher-performance. Again, it's not cold here in central VA, this will work fine until next change out. I over-paid $5 for high performance fluid in my family car..hahahaha

To be fair, most people are not aware of the differences between DOT4 and DOT4 LV.

 

[TiGeo]

Ok - TYP 200...squeak squeak squeak at the pedal. Quick Google yields....yes, this fluid can cause VW master cylinders to squeak and it's quite annoying as I drove her Atlas. I ordered 2 L of the SL.6 fluid from FCP Euro and will re-flush it, no biggie for $20 of new fluid. My bad.

https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/vws-hate-ate-typ200-fluid.363629/

 

[Vercingetorix]

Oh no, soon we will have people blending brake fluid.

 

[TiGeo]

Oh no, soon we will have people blending brake fluid.

ahahhahaah - as long as it's the same type and temp range should be no drama.

 

[The Critic]

Ok - TYP 200...squeak squeak squeak at the pedal. Quick Google yields....yes, this fluid can cause VW master cylinders to squeak and it's quite annoying as I drove her Atlas. I ordered 2 L of the SL.6 fluid from FCP Euro and will re-flush it, no biggie for $20 of new fluid. My bad.

https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/vws-hate-ate-typ200-fluid.363629/

I have experienced the same issue with SL6 on a 4Runner and a Honda Fit. The owner of the 4Runner didn't care and the Fit was resolved after it was switched back to Honda DOT3. I think it has to do with the lubricants in the fluid. GM had a similar issue on their vehicles and claims to have resolved it by increasing lubrication levels in their fluid:

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/MC-10112028-9999.pdf

 

[skyactiv]

The fluid's boiling point is not the issue. The issue is related to fluid flow at low temperatures or the overall viscosity curve. DOT4LV is significantly less viscous than DOT4 at low temperatures and allows for more ABS functionality. VAG is not the only OEM that has moved past "regular" DOT4 and onto DOT4LV for these reasons.

Ford switched to DOT LV on many vehicles including the F150.

 

[drtyler]

TiGeo - give the Brembo Dot 4 LV fluid a try one day.

I know these things are subjective, but it provided a firmer pedal feel on my cars as compared to the Ate and Genuine BMW brake fluids.

 

[Jimmy_Russells]

I think most vehicles are using LV now, especially vehicles with ABS.

I have used both in applications that came with LV and honestly I have not noticed any difference. I do use the LV when possible, though.

The other thing I noticed with VAG vehicles now is they want you to start with the LF caliper and end up at RR, which is the opposite of how I was normally taught. I have done that both ways also and again didn't notice any difference.

 

[TiGeo]

I think most vehicles are using LV now, especially vehicles with ABS.

I have used both in applications that came with LV and honestly I have not noticed any difference. I do use the LV when possible, though.

The other thing I noticed with VAG vehicles now is they want you to start with the LF caliper and end up at RR, which is the opposite of how I was normally taught. I have done that both ways also and again didn't notice any difference.

Yes, I've seen that procedure as well and I just go old-school....furthest to closest.

 

[The Critic]

Yes, I've seen that procedure as well and I just go old-school....furthest to closest.

VAG specs LF-RF-LR-RR in that order. Honda does something similar: LF-RF-RR-LR.
The advantage of this order is that it empties out the master cyl first so the quantity of fluid used is minimized. As long as you manually empty the master cyl before starting AND bleed the LF caliper first, you can often perform a complete brake flush with 24 oz or less.

 

[michael007]

My Honda HRV and bmw e60 both get SL6. no squeak squeak here

 

[UG_Passat]

VAG specs LF-RF-LR-RR in that order. Honda does something similar: LF-RF-RR-LR.
The advantage of this order is that it empties out the master cyl first so the quantity of fluid used is minimized. As long as you manually empty the master cyl before starting AND bleed the LF caliper first, you can often perform a complete brake flush with 24 oz or less.

VAG used to spec closest to farthest. Now, they reversed the order from farthest to closest. Does it really matter? Probably not.

 

[TiGeo]

VAG used to spec closest to farthest. Now, they reversed the order from farthest to closest. Does it really matter? Probably not.

I've seen it done by a shop on my Golf and they went old-school furthest to closest. I've read it's the opposite. I've talked to a tech that says it makes f all of a difference.

 

[RooflessVW]

I've seen it done by a shop on my Golf and they went old-school furthest to closest. I've read it's the opposite. I've talked to a tech that says it makes f all of a difference.

Let's get real for a second.

How would the tech know? His two criteria for "it doesn't make a difference" are 1: the fluid comes out clean and 2: the customer doesn't come back with an issue.

Do the job the way the data says to do the job.

 

[jurko]

I'll be doing brake flush on my Golf (in signature) next month and need advice please.
Here's what the manual says, and 2 recommendations from Rock Auto.
Either one would be ok?

Thanks.