Brake fluid, one man change kit?

Joined
May 19, 2018
Messages
163
Location
NORTH CAROLINA
Im asking about the style you can do a complete fluid flush / swap all by yourself. I see there is the little one way valve style . Some say you can still pull back air when you take your foot off the brake petal through the threads on the bleed screw. . ?? Truth ?? Then several other styles. Dealer wants $270. Gen 3 Nissan Frontier. Want to do it right. But not sink the bank into it. What systems / cost efficient do yall recommend and use. Wardawg
 
Before I had a pressure bleeder, I used a tube and a bottle and I would crack the bleed screw open and just let it drip. For the rear calipers, I would pump the brake pedal, only partially not all the way, and that sped up the process.
The front caliper, having a much shorter run, usually drained pretty fast all by themselves.

Keep the reservoir topped up.
 
I’ve got a similar set up. A pressurized bottle that screws on to the reservoir. Fill with fresh fluid, put a few PSI on the bottle, and crack each bleeder screw for a clean flush with no chance of trapping air.
 
I won't use anything but my Motive bleeder. I put all new calipers,hoses,pads and rotors on our Mazda last spring. The Motive gives a nice firm pedal and best of all no helpers or pumping the brake pedal.

Think I paid ~$70 from Amazon a couple years ago. Check to see if they have an adapter for your Nissan.
 
I bleed mine all the time solo with a pressure bleeder (like the Motiv type). I don't fill the tank with fluid however just use it to provide pressure. More of a pain that way with frequent removal to top off the reservoir with fluid (after each corner) but I find unless the vessel has quite a few bottles worth of brake fluid in it it can goof allow the reservoir to empty. Doesn't waste fluid this way. I can do 4 corners in about 30 min and that's not on a lift so jacking each corner.
 
Last edited:
I’ve got a Motive, and I have an AGM. The Motive needs to be pumped like a garden sprayer but the AGM has a shop air connection and it has adapters for different break reservoir caps. They both work well but the AGM is less pumping.

With the car on the lift and the wheels off, a flush/bleed is about 20 minutes.

And I am about to do that on the 2001 V70 wagon while I have it on the lift. The list of work on that car is extensive. Engine replacement, and lots of other work, but a fluid flush is regular, and important, maintenance.
 
I’ve got a Motive, and I have an AGM. The Motive needs to be pumped like a garden sprayer but the AGM has a shop air connection and it has adapters for different break reservoir caps. They both work well but the AGM is less pumping.

With the car on the lift and the wheels off, a flush/bleed is about 20 minutes.

And I am about to do that on the 2001 V70 wagon while I have it on the lift. The list of work on that car is extensive. Engine replacement, and lots of other work, but a fluid flush is regular, and important, maintenance.
New Motor?
 
When I'm by myself I've done gravity bleeds but often times that doesn't work on more modern cars with ABS. The ABS stuff seems to impede gravity bleeding...or maybe it just takes more time than I'm willing to spend..

I've enlisted the help of my 14 year old son and wife at times. They've handled the pedal pumping and holding instructions just fine.

EDIT...I do want a speed bleeder some day. That vacuum bleeder vacuum bleeder kit from HF that @Cripes posted looks like it would be worth a try.
 
I bought a mitivac hoping to use it for bleeds but it didn't work. Sucks too much air around bleed screw. Even if it worked, now you have the pump, hoses, adapters, bottles, all coated with brake fluid. Giant mess, now lives in its own bucket.

I considered getting a pressure bleeder but it's easier to get my wife to push the pedal while I work the bleed screw with a catch bottle.
 
I use the Chris Fix one person method utilizing vinyl hose and bottle. Some say that you shouldn't press the brake pedal 100% to the floor (damage master cylinder?) and you can coat the bleeder screw threads with brake-safe grease to seal them from leakage.
 
Last edited:
I won't use anything but my Motive bleeder. I put all new calipers,hoses,pads and rotors on our Mazda last spring. The Motive gives a nice firm pedal and best of all no helpers or pumping the brake pedal.

Think I paid ~$70 from Amazon a couple years ago. Check to see if they have an adapter for your Nissan.

I'm about to buy one. My X3 is due for brakes in a few thousand miles. THis one was highly recommended.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KM5L0/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A2IS69AN9A0OWP&th=1
 
Im asking about the style you can do a complete fluid flush / swap all by yourself. I see there is the little one way valve style . Some say you can still pull back air when you take your foot off the brake petal through the threads on the bleed screw. . ?? Truth ?? Then several other styles. Dealer wants $270. Gen 3 Nissan Frontier. Want to do it right. But not sink the bank into it. What systems / cost efficient do yall recommend and use. Wardawg
I bought a kit from harbor freight many years ago. It hooks up to an air compressor and 8s a one person bleed kit.
 
Back
Top Bottom