brake fluid flush

[The motor guy]

I was thinking of getting the brake fluid changed out in my truck. What would it cost to have this done. I've heard that you can mess up the abs pump when doing this. I'd prefer to just pay someone to do this. That way if someone messes something up it's on them. So my two questions are. What does it cost? And can something get messed up if this is done wrong and cause me more of a headache than if I just never messed with it at all. After all nobody ever seems to change brake fluid and they don't seem to have any problems.

 

[JHZR2]

Aaah, the timeless argument of to flush or not to flush. I say do so, its a safety system, and even if you never boil fluid, your calipers will be happier.

An hour of labor should do it.

Ive never heard of an ABS issue, maybe it does exist though?!?

I dont cycle the ABS pump/valves. Some do via computer control.

My key intent is to get the moisture and dirt out at the calipers before it can ever transition back up to the ABS unit.

IMO, doing a pressure bleed with a motive unit is the best bet, and is super easy to do as a single person, especially on a truck. Youll pay less than getting it done once and have equipment to do it again.

 

[The Critic]

Check your factory service manual, the procedure will be there. I too, would try to pressure or manual bleed whenever possible.

Looks like a dealer in your area has a coupon for $89.95.

http://www.gulfgatedodge.com/service/specials/super_saturday_service_specials?dept=4

 

[mopar_monkey]

mighty vac works good, just hook the hose up to the bleeder, build vac, crack open the bleeder and let it pull out the old fluid, make sure to put a bottle of brake fluid up side down in the master cyl reservoir to gravity feed new fluid into the system, after doing so with all the bleeders make sure to pump the brake peddle (some time you will pull the pistons into the caliper due to the vacuum), i've literally done this thousands of times and never had an issue.

 

[Eddie25]

So using the mighty vac eliminates the two perso. Job? Cause Ive read one person has to be inside depressing the brakes with the other is outside catching the fluid and for the OP I've also read if your going to bleed yourself, start in the wheel farthest from the driverside ex the back passenger side, then work ur way down. At least that's what it said. Would it make more sense to replace the brakes and bleed altogether?

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Eddie25
I've also read if your going tobl bleed yourself, start in the wheel farthest from the driverside ex the back passenger side, then work ur way down. At least that's what it should. Would it make more sense to replace the brakes and bleed altogether?

Do NOT do that. Sears guy tried that on my friend's Honda fit and ended up with a soft pedal. Proper bleed sequence per FSM solved it. Always consult the service manual.

 

[Eddie25]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: Eddie25
I've also read if your going tobl bleed yourself, start in the wheel farthest from the driverside ex the back passenger side, then work ur way down. At least that's what it should. Would it make more sense to replace the brakes and bleed altogether?

Do NOT do that. Sears guy tried that on my friend's Honda fit and ended up with a soft pedal. Proper bleed sequence per FSM solved it. Always consult the service manual.

Out of curiosity why did the results turn out like that after the Sears guy? Wouldn't a soft pedal mean that there's air in the system? I want to know if ever I shall do it, so I don't mess anything up.

 

[SIXSPEED]

My wife helps me do the two person method. Place a block of wood under the brake pedal to prevent pushing the pedal all the way to the floor, which can potentially damage the seals in the master cylinder, especially if your fluid is dirty. The sequence for bleeding may depend on year and make so be sure to check what sequence applies to your vehicle. For my 2004 Odyssey the sequence is clockwise starting with the Front Left and ending with the Rear Left. My 97 Accord follows a more conventional sequence starting with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder.

I typically buy three 12 oz containers of brake fluid for a complete flush; I never use previously opened bottles of fluid. Before bleeding, I just use a turkey baster to remove as much of the old fluid as I can from the MC reservoir, then fill with clean fluid. While bleeding, keep an eye on the reservoir level to make sure it never empties out, which will allow air into the lines.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Eddie25
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: Eddie25
I've also read if your going tobl bleed yourself, start in the wheel farthest from the driverside ex the back passenger side, then work ur way down. At least that's what it should. Would it make more sense to replace the brakes and bleed altogether?

Do NOT do that. Sears guy tried that on my friend's Honda fit and ended up with a soft pedal. Proper bleed sequence per FSM solved it. Always consult the service manual.

Out of curiosity why did the results turn out like that after the Sears guy? Wouldn't a soft pedal mean that there's air in the system? I want to know if ever I shall do it, so I don't mess anything up.

Not exactly sure what happened. I was standing in the bay the entire time so I know every step that was taken.

He vacuum bled the system RR, LR, RF, LF and ran the system dry by accident. So he refilled the system and vacuum bled each corner for more than a min...so he went through a ton of fluid. Road tested the vehicle with me and the pedal was barely OK. He put it back on the lift and did two pumps per corner, in the proper sequence, and everything was fine again.

So yes-- consult the bleed sequence before starting. Do not assume that it is furthest to nearest.

 

[AdRock]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: Eddie25
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: Eddie25
I've also read if your going tobl bleed yourself, start in the wheel farthest from the driverside ex the back passenger side, then work ur way down. At least that's what it should. Would it make more sense to replace the brakes and bleed altogether?

Do NOT do that. Sears guy tried that on my friend's Honda fit and ended up with a soft pedal. Proper bleed sequence per FSM solved it. Always consult the service manual.

Out of curiosity why did the results turn out like that after the Sears guy? Wouldn't a soft pedal mean that there's air in the system? I want to know if ever I shall do it, so I don't mess anything up.

Not exactly sure what happened. I was standing in the bay the entire time so I know every step that was taken.

He vacuum bled the system RR, LR, RF, LF and ran the system dry by accident. So he refilled the system and vacuum bled each corner for more than a min...so he went through a ton of fluid. Road tested the vehicle with me and the pedal was barely OK. He put it back on the lift and did two pumps per corner, in the proper sequence, and everything was fine again.

So yes-- consult the bleed sequence before starting. Do not assume that it is furthest to nearest.


When he bled it dry there's a good chance he had air trapped in the ABS module even though he ran a ton of fluid through it. Most of the time that means a trip to the dealer so they can bleed the module through the computer. Consider yourself lucky that he was able to get the air out.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Originally Posted By: Eddie25
So using the mighty vac eliminates the two person Job? Cause Ive read one person has to be inside depressing the brakes with the other is outside catching the fluid and for the OP I've also read if your going to bleed yourself, start in the wheel farthest from the driverside ex the back passenger side, then work ur way down. At least that's what it said. Would it make more sense to replace the brakes and bleed altogether?

Yes it is one person tool, It's so easy and so fast to flush brake fluid with Mityvac or any other quality fluid extractor. It took me a lot more time to raise one end of the car with supplied car jack, remove the wheel, reinstall the wheel and lower the car then the actual flushing the brake fluid with Mityvac. Just keep an eye on the reservoir to be sure that it never run dry.

I had both Mityvac and Motive Power Bleeder. The Motive didn't work well on either E430 or LS400 rear wheels, I sold it on Craigslist.

The bonus of Mityvac is it can be used with any brake system, be it Asian or European or American or ... And it can be used to siphon ATF and oil too.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: AdRock

When he bled it dry there's a good chance he had air trapped in the ABS module even though he ran a ton of fluid through it. Most of the time that means a trip to the dealer so they can bleed the module through the computer. Consider yourself lucky that he was able to get the air out.

Thats true, but does not explain why a quick two pump bleed in the proper sequence solved the problem entirely.

Also, I do not recall Honda requiring HDS to bleed the ABS module after the system is ran dry....and it sticks out in my mind since most do.

 

[SIXSPEED]

Originally Posted By: Eddie25
Would it make more sense to replace the brakes and bleed altogether?

It does make sense to bleed/flush the brake lines after replacing the brakes. That way, when you fill the Master Cylinder reservoir to the max line you won't be putting additional fluid in the lines to fill extended caliper pistons against worn brake pads. So the next time you change your brakes, compressing the caliper pistons won't cause the reservoir to over-flow.

 

[user52165]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Aaah, the timeless argument of to flush or not to flush. I say do so, its a safety system, and even if you never boil fluid, your calipers will be happier.

There is no timeless argument to flush or not flush brakes. Maybe you are thinking of the transmission ......... that has always been a contentious issue........... but not brakes. It is a hygroscopic fluid, it has a duty cycle. Check your owners manual.

 

[Chris Meutsch]

I have mine flushed every 3 years (per Honda's recommendation) by my mechanic. 1, it's a safety issue. 2, have you looked up the prices of new ABS modules? Usually a grand or more. I figure if they last longer with new fluid, sounds like $100 well spent.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: user52165
There is no timeless argument to flush or not flush brakes. Maybe you are thinking of the transmission ......... that has always been a contentious issue........... but not brakes. It is a hygroscopic fluid, it has a duty cycle. Check your owners manual.

While I agree with you, if you look over the Internet, there are tons of threads where people make claims regarding having never changed fluid and how there is no practical benefit.

Most of my cars have a specific timeframe. But there is a ton of discussion all over the net regarding the necessity...

 

[Dave Sherman]

I've used the Mityvac to bleed the brakes on cars. I agree with the others though; the order on my Honda is not what you would expect it to be. Maybe it's more important if you have air in the system, but I still follow it when flushing the fluid.

As far as necessity, brake fluid absorbs moisture, even through the rubber hoses. Lowers the boiling point, and it rusts things from the inside out. I had to replace both rear brake cylinders on a 1988 Pontiac 6000 that had never had the brake fluid flushed, and they were filled with brown sludge. The bores were rusty, and one of the seals had started leaking.

 

[Kuato]

On a 5 year old vehicle? Not time to bleed yet IMO.

We've got an 85 Dodge with original brake fluid and things work just fine.

 

[Chris Meutsch]

In Europe, car inspections require a test of the brake fluid every 2 years to see how much water has absorbed into the system. Can you never change it? Sure, but it's your potential safety.

 

[TooManyWheels]

Originally Posted By: Kuato
We've got an 85 Dodge with original brake fluid and things work just fine.

My wife experienced brake failure from fluid boiling on a fifteen year-old vehicle, so, based on that experience, I would be a little concerned about your twenty-seven year-old one.

If I were you, I would only use the brakes on cool days when you could be more sure they might work.