Brake Fluid Change?

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Keeping in mind that OP is in AZ, the brake fluid should be in a lot better shape, moisture wise, than other, more humid places. Having said that, brake fluid should be changed periodically. For my daily drivers every 3-4 years seems to be working well. How do I know this? Because the brake pedal feel improves only slightly after the flush.

I would go ahead with the brake fluid flush, maybe go to another place if the price seems too high, and see if you notice any improvement in pedal feel/firmness. If no, or very little improvement is felt, I would extend the next flush by a year or two.
 
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Just recently did this on my 92 Accord. 125k and 25 years on the OEM fluid (I know)

Came out looking rusty and nasty, only other servicing the brake system has needed was a new master cylinder back in 2006. I used a large Mityvac extractor with their brake bleeding kit. Worked like a champ and had sucked a quart through in about 30-40 minutes. I'll be doing it again probably every couple of weeks until the rust stops clouding the fluid.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
How do I know this? Because the brake pedal feel improves only slightly after the flush.



I wouldn't expect the pedal feel to improve at all. Why do you think it would?

Only thing I can think of would be possibly slightly better "lubricity" of new fluid but that's a bit of a stretch.

Unless its boiling, isn't old fluid an essentially incompressible liquid, just like new fluid?
 
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Originally Posted By: ZebRuaj
Talk to enough tech's (even ETCG) and a lot will say they just baster out the reservoir and fill back up, call it done.


Talk to enough "tech's" here and you really, really want to hit somebody.
 
Originally Posted By: Ducked
I wouldn't expect the pedal feel to improve at all. Why do you think it would?


Maybe it was a combination of really old brake fluid and air in the system IDK, but flushing really old brake fluid always had a noticeable difference in pedal feel, especially when hot, even if I didn't notice air bubbles coming out. That was on my old cars that were purchased used.
I didn't notice such a difference in the car I had since new.
 
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Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Keeping in mind that OP is in AZ, the brake fluid should be in a lot better shape, moisture wise, than other, more humid places...


This is exactly what a dealer service Tech told me a few years back with one of my Subarus. They had a "brake fluid flush" listed right on their menu board. Subaru at the time suggested it be done every 2yrs. They said "This was more for hot, humid climates". No easy money for them I guess.
 
Originally Posted By: Kage860
But manufacturers like toyota do not recomend fluid changes because the only way to get the fluid hot enoigh to boil would be a track application, not normal driving.


This is not even remotely true.
 
Originally Posted By: mightymousetech
Originally Posted By: Kage860
But manufacturers like toyota do not recomend fluid changes because the only way to get the fluid hot enoigh to boil would be a track application, not normal driving.


This is not even remotely true.


Yes, not even close...
 
I once started driving on a very cold Canadian morning, stepped on the brake as I approached a stop sign, and... the car kept rolling. The brake pedal would not go down. Luckily there was no other traffic nearby. I pushed the pedal as hard as I could with both feet and the car very slowly came to a stop. I started going again slowly and tried to stop again, this time it stopped a little better, but still not very good. After a few more starts and stops, the brake was working normally. The car was 4 years old at that time and the brake fluid had never been changed. It must have absorbed lots of water and froze. Those of you in Texas don't have to worry about this, but if you live where the temps drop to -20 then I'd say freezing brake fluid is more likely to happen to you than boiling brake fluid.
 
Originally Posted By: Oro_O
If you do it yourself, this is a good system:

Take a baster bulb and suck the reservoir down. Refill with fresh. Then start the bleeding, and just bleed a few pedal/lever pumps until air is out.

Do this every two years and you will flush/refresh the system over time without having to do it all at once with a more consuming time investment each time. I live in the very wet PNW and do this with several cars and motorcycles and it works great.
Right you are Oreo.
smile.gif
 
Gravity bleed if you're lazy, or a one way valve in a vac tube slipped over the nipple if you want to pump the pedal.
You can buy a bleeder if you're feeling rich.
 
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