With the system being sealed combines with the very high quality if material used in modern brake system, most manufacture's recommand not to change the fluid. They say that opening up the system will cause the moisture issues. Daimler Chrysler and Ford say to not change the fluids in their late model vehicles. If your system is properly sealed, no moisture will enter it regardless of where you live, it doesn't just seep in through the hoses. It is similar to freon on the A/C system, you don't flush it as maintenance because if you do not properly evacuate the system, you will only cauase harm. If you car/truck is MAX lines. If the fluid is low-below MIN, it's time for a brake job. DO NOT to add more fluid. It is is leaking, you have a totally differnet problem.
brake fluid change interval
- Thread starter Cutehumor
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Audi cars requires a brake fluid (DOT 4 for my '96) change every 2 years. The ABS control unit can be cycled with a special computer tool in order to remove all old brake fluid from it. Oh, and brake and clutch share the same fluid.
I was NOT flaming anyone or trying to start a flame war here. The "bone-headed" reference was for auto manufacturers claims of "maint-free" items, certainly not anyone here.
While I do not own a brand new Ford or Mercedes, all other cars I have owned had some kind of venting to the reservoir. I do understand the worry about getting dirt into the system, especially if you have a quick-lube shop "topping off" fluids.
While I do not own a brand new Ford or Mercedes, all other cars I have owned had some kind of venting to the reservoir. I do understand the worry about getting dirt into the system, especially if you have a quick-lube shop "topping off" fluids.
[/QUOTE]Going to any quick lube place constitutes in my eyes negligence. No really. [/QB][/QUOTE]
sad to say, lots of people go to those places. I know some that are too "civilized" to get their hands dirty for an oil change. When I do my own maintence stuff on my car, friends say I'm trying to save money by doing it myself.
sad to say, lots of people go to those places. I know some that are too "civilized" to get their hands dirty for an oil change. When I do my own maintence stuff on my car, friends say I'm trying to save money by doing it myself.
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Going to any quick lube place constitutes in my eyes negligence. No really.
I change the B.Fluid in my 1973 track car every year because it soon turns brown at the MC, not so much at the wheels, but it does feel better after bleeding out air and moisture - braking from 130 mph every minute for 30 min.
I have had my 1991 Aerostar since 1995. The fluid had likely never been changed but was clear. In 2003 I paid to get the lines blown out by a racer, as I have heard many times. I usually "bleed" when I replace pads or shoes. Watch the color of fluid. And check with the cap OFF - I ran a clutch dry in 10 yrs by assuming the line on the res. was fluid - it was just a stain!
I have had my 1991 Aerostar since 1995. The fluid had likely never been changed but was clear. In 2003 I paid to get the lines blown out by a racer, as I have heard many times. I usually "bleed" when I replace pads or shoes. Watch the color of fluid. And check with the cap OFF - I ran a clutch dry in 10 yrs by assuming the line on the res. was fluid - it was just a stain!
Well I was taught that it should be done anualy. I usualy do it every 2-3 years!
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That's why you keep adding fresh fluid to the master cylinder and keep bleeding each caliper until fresh brake fluid (and potentially air bubbles) is expelled. As someone mentioned, a pressure bleeder makes this a snap.
Member RayH and I met up this weekend and he helped me flush the brake fluid in one of my cars. The car is a '95 and I'm reasonably certain it has never had the brakes bled. There was not a huge difference in color, but it was about the color of 3k mile motor oil. Afterwards, pedal feel was noticeably firmer and response was better. Not night and day, but definitely noticeable.
I'm going to stick with 2 yr bleed intervals from now on. It's fairly easy to do with a friend and brings piece of mind.
I'm going to stick with 2 yr bleed intervals from now on. It's fairly easy to do with a friend and brings piece of mind.
The general rule of thumb is every 2 years.
I have run the gambit from once a year to once every 10 years.
I was the most surprised at the condition of the 10 year old brake fluid on a 1994 Toyota Lancruiser with app 105k . It was dirty, but not any more dirty than my Z06 Corvette, which was bleed at the 50k and or 33 mo mark. Since I did not open the brake fluid reservoir much, and probably had a pretty good air and water tight seal, I probably didn't inadvertently induce H20 or H20 vapor.
I would recommend, if a DOT3 fluid is called for, to switch to a DOT 4 product. I chose between Castrol LMA and Valvoline Synpower. Both claim to absorb H20 FAR less and slower than the DOT 3 product. For me, time will tell. Howver since I got a power bleeder,(Motive)I will probably not go another 10 years before I bleed these brakes again.
Incidently, shop charges are between 60-125 dollars for the brake bleed service. Parts cost for the fluid either Castrol LMA or Valvoline Synpower is $5. for a 32 oz container. I think I over amped a bit and use app 20 oz for a full brake bleed.
[ July 10, 2003, 01:19 PM: Message edited by: ruking77 ]
I was the most surprised at the condition of the 10 year old brake fluid on a 1994 Toyota Lancruiser with app 105k . It was dirty, but not any more dirty than my Z06 Corvette, which was bleed at the 50k and or 33 mo mark. Since I did not open the brake fluid reservoir much, and probably had a pretty good air and water tight seal, I probably didn't inadvertently induce H20 or H20 vapor.
I would recommend, if a DOT3 fluid is called for, to switch to a DOT 4 product. I chose between Castrol LMA and Valvoline Synpower. Both claim to absorb H20 FAR less and slower than the DOT 3 product. For me, time will tell. Howver since I got a power bleeder,(Motive)I will probably not go another 10 years before I bleed these brakes again.
Incidently, shop charges are between 60-125 dollars for the brake bleed service. Parts cost for the fluid either Castrol LMA or Valvoline Synpower is $5. for a 32 oz container. I think I over amped a bit and use app 20 oz for a full brake bleed.
[ July 10, 2003, 01:19 PM: Message edited by: ruking77 ]
I have changed the brake fluid on my 98 GMC twice, and never had to buy a special tool for the ABS. Is it just required by certain vehicles? I always just pour fluid into the res., and bleed until it gets near the bottom, refill and repeat intil it all comes out clear. It usually takes about 2 quarts to do the entire system.
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sbc350gearhead,
I can speak only for Audi cars as far as the ABS control unit is concerned. But I will also mention that the clutch and brake share the same fluid and reservoir, so it's probably a good idea to flush and bleed the clutch master cylinder on occasion.
I can speak only for Audi cars as far as the ABS control unit is concerned. But I will also mention that the clutch and brake share the same fluid and reservoir, so it's probably a good idea to flush and bleed the clutch master cylinder on occasion.
I just changed the fluid out of the master cylinder. I can immediately feel the difference, the brake pedal feels firmer. I also don't hear brake squeal when I first start the car and drive off. the old symptoms that I had was brake squeal at startup and went away when the car warmed up. I figure with the new fluid, it gets to the calipers alot quicker therefore no more squeal. the brake fluid I drained out was a used engine oil color. dark brownish.
I ususally do this this upon the first brake pad change and every 2 years after that. Also, I try to do it in the late fall through early spring timeframe when humidity(moisture content of the air) is relatively low.
Timzak has to be the poster child of squeaky clean garages and cars. I was embarrassed to have him sit in and drive my new Sonata after we finished bleeding the brakes on his '95 Accent daily driver. (which looks like it just came off a dealer's new car lot! exterior, interior, and engine bay are spotless!)
[ July 20, 2003, 10:49 PM: Message edited by: Ray H ]
Bah! Your Sonata was perfectly clean and tidy! The Accent just appears new from a distance.
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