Brake/Clutch Bleeding Methods

Joined
Sep 13, 2010
Messages
728
Location
Central Texas
I have heard of various methods to bleed brakes or clutch. Pressure on the master cylinder, vacuum at the bleeder valve, and others. I connect a hose to the bleeder valve that has a with a check valve on the other end. I can see that some of the other methods and equipment would be good if you had a lot of cars to do. If you flush all of the old fluid and remove all of the air what advantage do the other methods have besides time considerations. Less wear and tear on the master cylinder and brake and slave cylinders?

I saw a DIY vacuum bleeder on YT - DIY Bleeder

Amazon sells a bleeder similar to the one I have - https://www.amazon.com/vbaxy-Bleede...1759434356&s=automotive&sr=1-8&ts_id=15707321

I had an old one that got froze up in storage. I put it in a jar and let it sit with non synthetic transmission fluid. It now works. I plan to remove it from the hose and store it in a tight jar with the automatic transmission fluid to keep it working.
 
The check valve bleeders would be nice if they had some way to seal the threads from allowing air in. I can't see that thread sealer that some have lasting long.
Pressure bleeders ? Read some of the reviews and how many have had the paint ruined on their cars or ? from them leaking.
Many good ways to do the vacuum bleeder, and make it very easy.
 
Pressure bleeder looks like a lot of fiddling around especially if the master is in a tight space. Don't see problem with bleeder threads unless they are very loose/poor. Do you have to fiddle with vacuum settings?
 
The check valve bleeders would be nice if they had some way to seal the threads from allowing air in. I can't see that thread sealer that some have lasting long.
Pressure bleeders ? Read some of the reviews and how many have had the paint ruined on their cars or ? from them leaking.
Many good ways to do the vacuum bleeder, and make it very easy.

Best practice for pressure bleeding is to empty the reservoir, fill with fresh to the top, and then only pressurize the full vehicle reservoir. Not fill the pressure bleeder tank itself.

No chance of leaks.

Works perfect even when the system is opened.
 
One easy way if you're on your own is to attach a piece of rubber hose to the bleeder on the caliper, and run the open end into a jar of old brake fluid.

You can then pump the brake (or clutch) pedal without drawing air back into the system.

The jar of old brake fluid takes the place of a one-way valve.
 
One easy way if you're on your own is to attach a piece of rubber hose to the bleeder on the caliper, and run the open end into a jar of old brake fluid.

You can then pump the brake (or clutch) pedal without drawing air back into the system.

The jar of old brake fluid takes the place of a one-way valve.
Sometimes this works, sometimes it doesn't-- matter of religion/ superstition. Sometimes you've got to nail the pedal with a helper cracking the valve so the speed and pressure shakes the last bubbles out. And of course sometimes you need a scan tool.
 
For years I used the vacuum method using a Mityvac pump or a Harbor Freight one that hooked up to an air compressor. They worked pretty well most of the time. The two times that it did not work was when I blew out a brake line and the only way at the time I could get it to bleed was have someone press on the pedal as I worked the bleeder screw.

I then bought a pressure bleeder, and it made bleeding brakes much faster and now is my preferred method.
 
The check valve bleeders would be nice if they had some way to seal the threads from allowing air in. I can't see that thread sealer that some have lasting long.
Pressure bleeders ? Read some of the reviews and how many have had the paint ruined on their cars or ? from them leaking.
Many good ways to do the vacuum bleeder, and make it very easy.
I am a fan of Speed Bleeders. You only need to open them 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. The company also sells thread sealant.
 
For clutches specifically i've found that after gravity bleeding the majority out if you get at the pedal and pump it as fast as humanly possible (i'm faster with my hand than foot) for say 30 seconds, wait a minute, repeat for 30 more seconds, wait another minute or so then bleed as you prefer( I prefer to pump and hold then crack the bleeder) that the air comes out real fast or at the least compresses into a small enough bubble that it moves through the lines easier.
 
Back
Top Bottom