Ok, so after the ice storm last winter where my power was out for about 4.5 days, I decided that at some point before this coming winter, I was going to get a generator. Home Depot had one online as their deal of the day so I bought it. Smarter Tools 3500 watts. Model # ST-GP3500. I figure it should do the trick for just running a fridge, a chest freezer, and a couple of oil filled radiator type heaters. Most of the time, power outages last no more than 24 hours around here, so this should see very light duty. Anyways, what oil does most folks use? Synthetic or conventional? OM specs 10w30. Could I use a 5w30? Also, do most of you store the generator with the tank empty, or full as long as you have added Stabil or something? My thought is to store it empty, and have a couple of 5 gallon cans of gas (w/Stabil) ready as needed. Then, if I don't use the gas in the cans, I can use it in the car and get fresh cans before the next storm season. Oil changes in the spring or fall? Anything else I may have overlooked? Thanks for your time and responses.
Bought my first generator, so I have some ??'s
- Thread starter bigdawg74
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If it is a Chinese engine replace the spark plug with a champion or auto lite or Bosch. Fuel up with a double or triple does of Stabil. 10w30 Rotella from WalMart. Start it once every 2-3 months and let it run for 5 minutes. Done.
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Since it's a generator an emtpy fuel tank won't do much good. Don't store it with an empty tank or run the fuel out of it. I've had the worst luck with carbs getting messed up doing that. Fill it up and keept it treated with marine grade sta-bil. It's the blue stuff not the red and then run the generator for 10 minutes or so to get it into the carb. After that run the generator for 25 minutes or so once a month minimum.
I think your generator would be fine for the fridge and freezer, but doubt you will be able to run electric heaters, maybe one. They take about 1200 or 1500 watts each I think.
I use Amsoil 4-Stroke oil for all my OPE. Its made for air cooled engines. The storage of the tank empty or full has to do with condensation. Where will it be stored? The varnish/gum problem is in the fuel bowl.
You need about 24 hours of full load run time gas minimum. Often gas is impossible to find when the power is out. Most gas stations do not have generators.
How will you connect it, extension cords? A chain is a good idea as it needs to be outside and obviously can be stolen.
I do oil changes more on hours used. If I run it for a long storm (maybe a week) I will change it after power is back. Good idea to check the oil every fillup for the first several.
Many people load test the generator monthly.
Please don't backfeed!
I use Amsoil 4-Stroke oil for all my OPE. Its made for air cooled engines. The storage of the tank empty or full has to do with condensation. Where will it be stored? The varnish/gum problem is in the fuel bowl.
You need about 24 hours of full load run time gas minimum. Often gas is impossible to find when the power is out. Most gas stations do not have generators.
How will you connect it, extension cords? A chain is a good idea as it needs to be outside and obviously can be stolen.
I do oil changes more on hours used. If I run it for a long storm (maybe a week) I will change it after power is back. Good idea to check the oil every fillup for the first several.
Many people load test the generator monthly.
Please don't backfeed!
Keeping the gas separate could be smart if you're worried about it going stale. I'd use a 10w30 HDEO personally; generator applications tend to increase fuel dilution and that in the crankcase, aswell as they're more robust to shearing. I wouldn't worry too much about synths; I'd just make sure I was changing it often enough.
You can get a furnace transfer switch at "electric generators direct" on the internet. It will let you safely power your furnace if it is a standard blower type that burns natural gas.
3500 Watts is enough to start the blower motor, and a modern fridge, and maybe just a couple of 15 watt lights.
Think about how many days it was before you could trave on the public roads during the ice storm and store enough gas, oil, and a spare spark plug.
For winter and summer oil Rotella T6 5W-40 (at wall mart and many auto stores) or Castrol Edge 0w30 European Formula on front of bottle made in germany on back of bottle (at Pep-Boys or AutoZone), if you know it will be only used in the summer Rotella T5 15w40 or ever lower cost Mobil Delvac 1300 15w40 are great low cost oils.
3500 Watts is enough to start the blower motor, and a modern fridge, and maybe just a couple of 15 watt lights.
Think about how many days it was before you could trave on the public roads during the ice storm and store enough gas, oil, and a spare spark plug.
For winter and summer oil Rotella T6 5W-40 (at wall mart and many auto stores) or Castrol Edge 0w30 European Formula on front of bottle made in germany on back of bottle (at Pep-Boys or AutoZone), if you know it will be only used in the summer Rotella T5 15w40 or ever lower cost Mobil Delvac 1300 15w40 are great low cost oils.
In winter I store 55 gallons in 22, two and a half gallon jugs.
In summer I store 20 gallons.
Winter gas is winter gas, and summer gas is summer gas, do not expect summer gas to start an engine in the winter, it may not give off enough hydrocarbon vapors during starting when cold, and do not expect winter gas to remain in a fuel jug in the hot summer heat, the lite hydrocarbons will leave the gas and cause the jug to buldge out big time.
In summer I store 20 gallons.
Winter gas is winter gas, and summer gas is summer gas, do not expect summer gas to start an engine in the winter, it may not give off enough hydrocarbon vapors during starting when cold, and do not expect winter gas to remain in a fuel jug in the hot summer heat, the lite hydrocarbons will leave the gas and cause the jug to buldge out big time.
Wow, thanks for all the quick responses. Doog, yeah, it is a Wenling JennFeng Industry Inc engine (I kid you not)...will be upgrading the plug pronto. As far as the other points listed, well, my main concern is the gas going bad. A majority of power outages here typically only last 24 hours. At that point, I can live with a few candles and a sweatshirt...no need to get the generator out of the garage, fueled, chained down, corded up, etc. So I don't want to have a ton of gas sitting around that may or may not be used. To put it in perspective, last years storm was the worst one to hit around here in a decade. Madman, what is the benefit of using marine grade Stabil?
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It works better with the ethanol. The regualar red sta-bil doesn't seem to work very good when they switched over to the ethanol blended fuels. I had tons of problems until I switched over to the marine version. The marine stabil has more corrsion protection also. Just because it's marine grade doesn't mean you can't use it in a non marine application. I've used it in lawn mowers and all kinds of things.
It's no great challenge to get the fuel tank hose off those generators so you can drain them into a can for keeping fuel fresh. Should have some spare hose, the chinese rubber tends to go bad after a couple years. Rest of the engines are real solid though.
I got this transfer switch. Don't sweat the 1875 watt rating; just run a seperate cord for your heater before the switch. IMO your generator is "too big" if anything, not a huge deal but will use slightly more gas.
I got this transfer switch. Don't sweat the 1875 watt rating; just run a seperate cord for your heater before the switch. IMO your generator is "too big" if anything, not a huge deal but will use slightly more gas.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
It's no great challenge to get the fuel tank hose off those generators so you can drain them into a can for keeping fuel fresh. Should have some spare hose, the chinese rubber tends to go bad after a couple years. Rest of the engines are real solid though.
I got this transfer switch. Don't sweat the 1875 watt rating; just run a seperate cord for your heater before the switch. IMO your generator is "too big" if anything, not a huge deal but will use slightly more gas.
Too big? 3500 is the minimum watt Generator you would want to have.
It's no great challenge to get the fuel tank hose off those generators so you can drain them into a can for keeping fuel fresh. Should have some spare hose, the chinese rubber tends to go bad after a couple years. Rest of the engines are real solid though.
I got this transfer switch. Don't sweat the 1875 watt rating; just run a seperate cord for your heater before the switch. IMO your generator is "too big" if anything, not a huge deal but will use slightly more gas.
Too big? 3500 is the minimum watt Generator you would want to have.
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Everyone's different but my fridge runs at 260 watts and my freezer 180. CFLs are 13 watts apiece. Even with the startup surge (not much on modern capacitor start compressors) I'm under 1500. After the essentials I'm starting to get cheap; gasoline is 15x more expensive than grid power.
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Originally Posted By: eljefino
Everyone's different but my fridge runs at 260 watts and my freezer 180. CFLs are 13 watts apiece. Even with the startup surge (not much on modern capacitor start compressors) I'm under 1500. After the essentials I'm starting to get cheap; gasoline is 15x more expensive than grid power.
Right on.
Fridge, furnace and a few essential lights and receptacles is all you need.
I know in the case of my mom's house, I got her a 4K watt Chonda years ago. An electrician installed an exterior plug-in and xfer switch for the basement panel.
This gen will power the sump pump, fridge, hot water baseboard heat and a few outlets.
You have to go light when turning your own gasoline into electricity, especially during a massive outage.
Joel
Everyone's different but my fridge runs at 260 watts and my freezer 180. CFLs are 13 watts apiece. Even with the startup surge (not much on modern capacitor start compressors) I'm under 1500. After the essentials I'm starting to get cheap; gasoline is 15x more expensive than grid power.
Right on.
Fridge, furnace and a few essential lights and receptacles is all you need.
I know in the case of my mom's house, I got her a 4K watt Chonda years ago. An electrician installed an exterior plug-in and xfer switch for the basement panel.
This gen will power the sump pump, fridge, hot water baseboard heat and a few outlets.
You have to go light when turning your own gasoline into electricity, especially during a massive outage.
Joel
If it works for you guy`s, then I`m happy for ya. But this: " An electrician installed an exterior plug-in and xfer switch for the basement panel." is definitely the only way to go.
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Here is what to do. Use any 15w40, 5w-40, 10w30 diesel oil. Change it after 1 year if it was used.
As for the fuel system, always use the green marine stabil, and when done with the generator, run it 100% out of fuel. Use a little choke to use up every last drop.
When you put new gas in it, it will always run great.
Leaving a gas + stabil mix in the carb will foul it. Yes even WITH stabil.
As for the fuel system, always use the green marine stabil, and when done with the generator, run it 100% out of fuel. Use a little choke to use up every last drop.
When you put new gas in it, it will always run great.
Leaving a gas + stabil mix in the carb will foul it. Yes even WITH stabil.
NGK plug
Break-in I used Rotella 15w40
Current oil - Rotella 5w-40
Fuel - Blue Stabil in the mix ( I think marine stuff)
Exercise monthly. I'll run about 5 minutes no load, then load it, then remove load, run about 5 minutes before shut down. That's if it didn't get used for any other reason for the month.
When changing oil, I'll run it to warm it up and suspend (hopefully) any particles, then drain & refill. I'll also hit the inside with an air nozzle (enclosed inverter type)just to dust it out. I'll store it under cover during rain season. I have a large covered back patio.
Although mine calls for 10w30, it runs fine on the Rotella.
Break-in I used Rotella 15w40
Current oil - Rotella 5w-40
Fuel - Blue Stabil in the mix ( I think marine stuff)
Exercise monthly. I'll run about 5 minutes no load, then load it, then remove load, run about 5 minutes before shut down. That's if it didn't get used for any other reason for the month.
When changing oil, I'll run it to warm it up and suspend (hopefully) any particles, then drain & refill. I'll also hit the inside with an air nozzle (enclosed inverter type)just to dust it out. I'll store it under cover during rain season. I have a large covered back patio.
Although mine calls for 10w30, it runs fine on the Rotella.
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+1 on the blue Stabil. I use it for everything. It costs more but it also has more cleaners. Its such a PIA if old gas causes a problem, I am all for the best stabilizer I can find.
So it seems like there is division between leaving the fuel (w/ Stabil) in the generator tank when not in use, and keeping the tank empty between uses. As far as condensation, the generator will be kept in the garage when not in use.
Well the best would be to keep a small amount of treated gas in the tank then run that out every three or four months then add fresh fuel, repeat the process...
I used to store mine after running it dry and have had issues getting it started, I keep a little fuel in it now...
Summer fuel is a bit more stable over long periods than winter blends, any of it should be treated...
I used to store mine after running it dry and have had issues getting it started, I keep a little fuel in it now...
Summer fuel is a bit more stable over long periods than winter blends, any of it should be treated...
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Everyone's different but my fridge runs at 260 watts and my freezer 180. CFLs are 13 watts apiece. Even with the startup surge (not much on modern capacitor start compressors) I'm under 1500. After the essentials I'm starting to get cheap; gasoline is 15x more expensive than grid power.
You should have someone who has a digital amp meter with peek hold measure the peek start current during starting. The older the fridge or freezer, the higher it will be.
Our very old full size freezer draws 17 & 1/2 amps during start up but only 400 watts running, our new fridge draws 6 amps start up but only 110 watts running (155 with the light on when the door is open and it is running. Our furnace draws 11 amps starting the big air blower to force hot air into the house.
You write of the running watts as if that were the only thing to consider. The start up peek surge is what you have to be able to supply with your generator. If the generator is too small to supply the start up surge then the item will not start, and or the generator could be damaged.
And with an undersized generator you better be sure to NEVER have two items start at the same time.
Everyone's different but my fridge runs at 260 watts and my freezer 180. CFLs are 13 watts apiece. Even with the startup surge (not much on modern capacitor start compressors) I'm under 1500. After the essentials I'm starting to get cheap; gasoline is 15x more expensive than grid power.
You should have someone who has a digital amp meter with peek hold measure the peek start current during starting. The older the fridge or freezer, the higher it will be.
Our very old full size freezer draws 17 & 1/2 amps during start up but only 400 watts running, our new fridge draws 6 amps start up but only 110 watts running (155 with the light on when the door is open and it is running. Our furnace draws 11 amps starting the big air blower to force hot air into the house.
You write of the running watts as if that were the only thing to consider. The start up peek surge is what you have to be able to supply with your generator. If the generator is too small to supply the start up surge then the item will not start, and or the generator could be damaged.
And with an undersized generator you better be sure to NEVER have two items start at the same time.
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