Bought a Purolator filter for my next change

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I read up on the Mobil, K&N, Napa, Wix, etc... But could not justify spending $10+ for those and the Purolator's are just as good (in the tests). Bought two of the Pureone PL24011 filters, each $5.88 hey had the Premium Plus filters for $3 something. Still not sure what the differences are but just bought these. Have a '97 Tahoe with 92,2xx miles, I am using Mobil 1 5w30 and have stuck with the 3,000 OCI. Next one will probably go to 4,000 OCI.

Should I change the current filter (Valvoline, which I think is a Fram) halfway through to the Pureone? It has 2,000 miles to go on the current change. Or should I just wait 2,000 miles to change the oil and filter so it is all new for the 4,000 OCI?

BTW, this will be the first time changing the oil myself. Have been taking it to Valvoline and want to do it myself since I don't feel comfortable with them doing it anymore, plus I hear it is easy
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I have already bought a case of M1, a creeper, oil pan, and filters. Now just waiting 2,000 miles
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Also, anyone have any idea why my driveshaft (I think) may be leaking? It is the part that comes out of the back of the engine to the rear. It may not be leaking at all since it is where the oil drains out and hits that part leaving some oil residue. There is also something that vibrates whenever I accelerate from a stop or hit 40 when the OD kicks in.
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I can get a picture of that part I was talking about if it would help.

[ January 22, 2004, 10:38 PM: Message edited by: Stabbin97Tahoe ]
 
I would leave the present filter on until you're ready to do your oil change.

My guess is that your leak is at your engine's rear main seal, or at the output shaft seal of your transmission (I've never heard of a driveshaft with fluid in it, but I'm sure someone will tell us about one). Spray the area with engine degreaser, rinse with a hose and wipe down really good. This will help you pinpoint where the leak is. You might also get a big piece of cardboard like from an appliance box or something and park the vehicle over it for a day or two. The resulting drips (and their color) can help you find the source of the leak. The engine rear main seal is a $5-10 part that costs about $500 in labor to replace, since the transmission has to be removed. If it's not a big leak, I wouldn't worry about it too much. Auto RX might help. The tranny output shaft seal can usually be changed without removing the unit from the vehicle, although if you've never changed your oil before, I'd definitely take it to a mechanic to have this seal replaced. Auto RX might help here, too.

You might also have the mechanic have a look at your driveshaft carrier bearing or center support bearing. This may be causing the shudder you feel when accelerating.
 
OK Thanks, I will just wait until the next change to switch filters. It's only 2,000 miles.

I am going to take it into the dealer and see what they say about the vibration. It has a rebuilt tranny in it, about 24,000 miles on it since they put it in. Maybe there is some regular maintenance that needs to be done on it still under the rebuilt 55,000 miles warranty. And its not leaking much, just has some drips on the part. May be normal...Thanks
 
OK, I found out what the vibrating noise was. Took it in to the dealer to have them check it out. They just replaced the PCV valve. Cost me $65 for a $5 part I could have changed myself. But I didn't know for sure (duh, maybe that is why the oil place was recommending me change that
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) Oh well, the dealer said no other big problems were found regarding the vibration. "Just the PCV valve rattling like hell" in their words
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Is a purolator filter going to be good for me? I have read some other posts saying they may be too restrictive or may not flow as well leaving the oil pressure too low. I tow a snowmobile trailer in the winter and a boat in the summer so I dont want something that may lower the pressure. I will try it out but just wanted some opinions from the experts...Thanks

[ January 26, 2004, 07:15 PM: Message edited by: Stabbin97Tahoe ]
 
The more expensive Pure filter in normally made in the USA and has better media. The cheaper Pure is made in India etc. and has less filtration efficiency.

I think you bought a very good filter, but I see no reason not to use an AC Delco for a GM vehicle.
 
FordSVTGuy, I wasn't really impressed with the WIX. Just some of the things I have read and that comparision on the amsoil website of filters...it was torwards the low end past Fram I think.

haley10, Where do I get the ACDelco filters? Straight from the dealer? I will use these purolators and see how they work.
 
There are two types of Purolators, the white can and the blue (PureOne) can. The blue one is a bit more restrictive than its' cousin, but filters down to about 9 or 10 microns. Check the section here on the Mercruiser filter study. A member took a bunch of filters and ran them through the bubble tester. Sure enough, the PureOnes were pretty restrictive, but at 70F, not the normal operating temperature but no other filter could touch them as far as partical removal size goes. Of all the vehicles I've used Pure One on, oil pressure cranks up just as fast as the other ones.
ACDelco are pretty abundant. Check Advanced Autoparts, ORiellys or Auto Zone. Dealer will have them but you'll pay through the nose.
 
quote:

Originally posted by haley10:
The more expensive Pure filter in normally made in the USA and has better media. The cheaper Pure is made in India etc. and has less filtration efficiency.

Are you sure about this? I have Purolator PremiumPlus filters (the cheaper white ones) for my two vehicles sitting on the shelf here (L30001 and L14459). I just checked, and both of them say "Made in U.S.A." on the can.
 
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