Bought a 68 Dodge Truck w/383, 55,000 Miles, What Oil to Use in MI?

[11secondoldmopar]

Title kind of says it all.

Bought a beautiful rust free truck from Wyoming with a 383 Big Block, Automatic, Factory Air, 55,000 miles.

Am wondering what kind of oil would you use in this truck? I'll be driving it only in "mild" weather, 40 F to 80 F.

Also, should I Auto-Rx it first? Thanks!!

 

[Idrinkmotoroil]

I would go with one of the high mileage oils, this truck doesnt have many miles on it but it is a bit old. The high mileage oils will help preserve the seals better and you will likely see less oil consumption with them. I don't have any favourite HM oil, but Castrol's HM worked well in my Lincoln, Valvoline's seems to be pretty decent as well. I would auto-rx it if you have a chance, a gentle cleaning is what I would recommened so you don't dislodge any built up sludge or old oil remnants all at once. That is a cool truck btw.

 

[rugerman1]

My cousin has his dads' old '68 Dodge 3/4 ton "Camper Special" with the same engine/tranny as you do.A California truck with no rust and it's a beautiful sight to see.

I think flat tappet cams in old big blocks appreciate an oil with stoudt add packs like a HDEO. 10w-30 or 15w-40 Rotella,Delvac1300s,Delo,or Pennzoil Long Life would be my first choice.Do a UOA before you start experimenting.It'll give you a baseline data point for future reference.

 

[TallPaul]

What a beautiful truck!

The Citgo Ultralife high mileage oil is reported to have high levels of zddp and would be good for your truck. This was the SL version. If it has gone SM you would have to pull up their website and check the zinc phosphorus levels. SM was around 1200 ppm each (0.120 percent by weight).

The HDMO as noted above is also a good way to get high zddp. Or you can add SX-UP from Specialty Formulations (site sponsor) which is formulated to make modern oils have additive levels comparable to (and needed for engines from that era) that of the late '60s.

As for oil grade, the SL Citgo Ultralife is a thick 10w30 (12 cSt vs most around 10.5 cSt). Anyway, I would think a 10w30 or 10w40 would do. An oil pressure gauge and the factory pressure spec would help determine the grade. If 10w30 wt is too low of pressure, run 10w40.

[ May 14, 2005, 09:33 AM: Message edited by: TallPaul ]

 

[JHZR2]

I would auto-rx it simply because Im sure that at some point, oil ast in the sump for years without changing, and likely broke down somewhat.

Id use a HDEO, though the citgo oil sounds really good as well.

Make sure you get the transmission fluid changed.

Nice truck!

JMH

 

[Curious Kid]

Very nice truck. It's amazing how things have changed over the years, with simply viewing from afar.

I'd sometimes finding myself wanting to have something of an older "era" to drive as a daily driver, but the potential expense of fuel, parts, questionable safety and having been spoiled by over kill convenience....

Ah, the simplicity. Enjoy!

 

[GSV]

Sweet rig!

No navigation system, no ABS, no warning labels plastered all over everything, really cool.

 

[G-MAN]

Having grown up in the 60s and 70s with 4 big-block Chryslers (one 383 PI with two 4bbl carbs, and three 440 4bbls--1 with a Carter AFB, 1 with a Carter AVS, and 1 with a Holley), I can tell you that all four of these engines went over 150,000 miles using nothing but Havoline 30wt and/or Kendall 30wt. They were still running strong when my dad sold them.

If I had your truck, I'd do the Auto-RX treatment as has been recommended and then use a good straight 30wt in the summer and a high-mileage 10w30 in the winter. Use the same brand. And don't neglect the cooling system. No matter what the coolant looks like, I'd go have the system completely back flushed and pressure tested and then refilled with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and distilled water.

 

[haley10]

Wow, that's an unbelievable find! I like everyone's ideas about giving the cooling system attention, UOA, and maybe Delvac 1300S.

 

[11secondoldmopar]

Thanks for all the positive comments and great information. This site is wonderful.

 

[Chris142]

quote:

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Originally posted by GSV:
Sweet rig!

No navigation system, no ABS, no warning labels plastered all over everything, really cool.

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Plus sure destruction to almost any other car on the road if in an accident.

Those old Dodges are monsters! I have a regular customer that drives a 1970. He rolled it several years ago. The side of the bed got some scratches and he had to pop the roof back out a little but the truck came out of the accident great! Didn't even break any glass

The guy is still driving it! Saw it last week when I recored the radiator.

 

[TheTanSedan]

I just let my 1971 383 Chrysler go, 133m on oem motor; car in family since new. My daily driver for about ten years in every conceivable kind of weather. (Nothing like old-fashioned torque!)

It absolutely loved FUEL POWER. I had it tuned as well as it would run on "regular" (93-octane), and the FP was a definite help in smoothing out the idle especially in hot summer temps (ran mine at 195F). FP gave GREAT consistent performance from the fuel, and the plugs looked a lot better (MOPAR electronic ignition upgrade; highly recommended to do it, or, better, new MSD ALL-IN-ONE Distributor & Ignition as ignition advance is TONS easier to set [don't have to take distributor apart]).

I converted it to synthetic oil when I got it in 1995 with 78m on it (MOBIL ONE 15W-50) and oil consumption levelled out nicely. I recommend you replace the valve stem seals. Not hard to do, todays are made of VITON (much better than original), and it will help with the nemesis of a short-stroke, big piston engine: carbon build-up. (Also, pull intake manifold to get heat crossover passages).

I'd certainly give it an ARX run (in ATF and PSF too; and don't forget rear axle), preceded by a "Mola-Soak" (3-ozs LC in each -- hot --cylinder; crank over one rev at one hour and let sit overnight; spin out/blow out any excess; use old spark-plugs and run at high idle for 20-minutes; change oil and spark-plugs); and then use LUBE CONTROL and FUEL POWER religiously.

For me, SCHAEFFERS 204-S in ATF/PSF, M-1 in engine, and REDLINE in rear axle after any other cleaning (as above).

BALDWIN B2-HPG oil filter is the best under-$10 oil filter available: synthetic media, low restriction, extended/heavy-duty service.

As to an oil today, I'd sample what you have in there now and get Terrys advice (UOA thru BLACKSTONE) on what to use. For me there is NO reason not to run synthetic (have done so in all engines since 1982) and then change it every year or 6000 miles while keeping LC-20 in it per recommendation.

I would be more concerned with cooling system maintenance. Be sure to pull lower jacket plugs and get those passages as clean as possible (EDELBROCK and MILODON both make nice high-volume aluminum water pumps).

I have posted elsewehere, more extensively, on this car; and on what I would do today with another old MOPAR.

And: www.moparts.org/ on all drivetrain questions.

Only the FORD 390 even came close to the 383 as the "ideal" pickup truck motor. Yours looks great and I hope you enjoy it.

 

[hha27d]

where can 1 get citgo ultralife mentioned earlier in this thread
thanks

 

[TallPaul]

quote:

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Originally posted by hha27d:
where can 1 get citgo ultralife mentioned earlier in this thread
thanks

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If you get to a neighboring state to your west, check a Meijers. They were closing it out for $0.80 a quart. Other than that I don't know. A Citgo station would probably be pricy. Call Citgo and ask them who stocks it in your area.

 

[MikeR]

Incredibly cool truck. I'd run straight 30wt Delo myself.

Nice find!
M

 

[GreeCguy]

GSV - "Bring me four fried chickens and a Coke." - And some dry, white toast . . . .

That sure is one pretty truck! Where in Wyoming did you find it, (my wife is from Wyoming).

If it were me, I start with some Delo 15W40. I've used it in several of my vehicles and am very pleased with the results. It's currently working on cleaning out a Saturn SC1 that my daughter drives. Oil consumption is down and the oil has done an excellent job of gently cleaning out the gunk built up from previous owner neglect.