Boosting your backup lights?

On my old '97 Blazer I used a set of lights like Dave9 suggested. They were 120 degrees and mounted below the bumper.
I used a relay powered off the backup light wire. The standard relays only draw milliamps.
Power for the lights came to the relay from the rear cigarette lighter.
If there hadn't been a cigarette lighter circuit back there, I would have run a wire to the fuse box for light power.
 
^ Well I'm not really suggesting them per se, I mean the ONE of them wasn't bright enough to suit me but then I was starting out with what I'd call an average amount of light and deciding that wasn't enough of an upgrade over that average.

The issues to me seem to be asthetics, that I would want something that is called a narrow(er) or spot beam opposed to wide flood beam in this style of bar lights, but the narrower the beam, the deeper the reflector has to be so the more it sticks out from the rear of the vehicle (license plate based will have terrible throw per watt) if it isn't a recessed pod which I assume based on the example vehicle rear picture, would require cutting a section out of the bumper for, and depending on size of bumper bar, might harm the structural integrity of it. A bolder person might cut that section out of the hatch metal, then use a gasket and sealant to make sure it doesn't leak, but it might be tricky for the average person to make that cutout on thin, painted body metal without butchering it. A sheetmetal nibbler tool would help a lot.

With all this in mind, the easiest that would suit me, if ground clearance isn't an issue, is use two of them that someone linked on Amazon, and just remove the stock incan bulb (don't need it, with a pair of these you wouldn't even see it on) and tap into that circuit without a new wire run or relay:

(I mean the spot beam version which will still have a fair amount of flood with such a short reflector)

Then you could just put the couple mounting holes under the bumper per light, then if at a later date you want to remove them, there are no visible external signs of modification (until someone crawls under and sees the holes but you could throw plugs in those if/when the day comes that you want them removed).
 
^ Well I'm not really suggesting them per se, I mean the ONE of them wasn't bright enough to suit me but then I was starting out with what I'd call an average amount of light and deciding that wasn't enough of an upgrade over that average.

The issues to me seem to be asthetics, that I would want something that is called a narrow(er) or spot beam opposed to wide flood beam in this style of bar lights, but the narrower the beam, the deeper the reflector has to be so the more it sticks out from the rear of the vehicle (license plate based will have terrible throw per watt) if it isn't a recessed pod which I assume based on the example vehicle rear picture, would require cutting a section out of the bumper for, and depending on size of bumper bar, might harm the structural integrity of it. A bolder person might cut that section out of the hatch metal, then use a gasket and sealant to make sure it doesn't leak, but it might be tricky for the average person to make that cutout on thin, painted body metal without butchering it. A sheetmetal nibbler tool would help a lot.

With all this in mind, the easiest that would suit me, if ground clearance isn't an issue, is use two of them that someone linked on Amazon, and just remove the stock incan bulb (don't need it, with a pair of these you wouldn't even see it on) and tap into that circuit without a new wire run or relay:

(I mean the spot beam version which will still have a fair amount of flood with such a short reflector)

Then you could just put the couple mounting holes under the bumper per light, then if at a later date you want to remove them, there are no visible external signs of modification (until someone crawls under and sees the holes but you could throw plugs in those if/when the day comes that you want them removed).
I have a trailer hitch installed. I‘m just going to screw the light bars to a section of 2x2 furring strip and then mount it to the hitch bar somehow. It might be just as simple as zip tying them or (most likely) a couple of U bolts.

I’ll post pix when I get it done.
 
^ Make sure it looks *permanent*, not like anyone with a pocket knife could steal your lights. I wouldn't use zip ties on an outdoor application anyway as they can get brittle, unless you mean the stainless steel straps version.

How is the hitch bar set up? If it has pretty near 90' angle crossmembers to the receiver tube, might be able to just drill "small" holes in that to mount the light brackets, or fab a plate out of sheet aluminum to get them oriented correctly. Gotta luv sheet aluminum for being able to work it with woodworking tools and bend angles on a cheap little metal brake. If you're not into welding, I don't see a reason to use steel instead, and wood... depends on the specifics, but I'd prefer aluminum.

If you use wood, be sure to soak the heck out of the end grain with linseed oil or equivalent and coat the whole thing well in oil based paint or it won't hold up to the elements... considering we're both in the same region so same elements. I'm actually in N.KY but easier to tell people Cincinnati since it's a suburb off the interstate.
 
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I always though the backup light was for letting others know that you are backing up, not for the driver to see?

Do you have a backup camera?
You’re correct. The reverse lights are to inform others that the vehicle is in reverse. Functioning reverse lights can be the difference between life or death for pedestrians.
 
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