bonnet/hood latch lube

[riggaz]

How do lads. potentially the most boring topic of the day.

I'm taking bonnet/hood latch lube.

Whenever I see latches in our workshop they are just an accumulation of grit and grease which is only like grinding paste wearing the latches out.
Tech love a good mound of lithium spray grease!

I'm thinking about changing the grease out for 3inone with PTFE, my theory is that it's a lighter oil, most will fly/dry off, the PTFE will be left behind acting as a dry lube which will attract less grit and dirt - good idea?

It's probably a non-problem for you boys in the US but here in old blighty, it's either raining or 8'C overcast with 85% humidity. I was 10 years old before I realised I could take my raincoat off!

 

[supton]

If they get a regular squirt of something, but builds up some messy residue of dirt and grime, do they actually wear out? I’m not a mechanic but I have never heard of a hood latch wearing out.

 

[riggaz]

If they get a regular squirt of something, but builds up some messy residue of dirt and grime, do they actually wear out? I’m not a mechanic but I have never heard of a hood latch wearing out.

yeah, we get them all flopping about or jammed up with mud and road grime but the problem is the grease collecting it all. I'm talking 10-20-year-old cars here.
I'm looking at the WD40 specialist dry lube or similar products and the moment just so it doesn't collect as much ****e.

 

[Kira]

As you know, cleaning and relubing is your only option so yes, try a dry lube and watch it.

Fortunately spray cleaners (carb/injector or brake) and careful shielding with scrap cloth will make easy work of cleaning.
Don't let unknown cleaner sprays drip onto paint.

Also, what breaks in hood / bonnet latches (in my world) are any springs.
Fords are known for the safety catch (what catches the bonnet when first you pull the opening lever) spring breaking. It's a whopper being an extension spring all of 8mm in dia. and 25mm long. I've always been fortunate finding jars of springs in my friends' stashes. They're easy to make.

"Jammed up with mud...", you say?

 

[Oro_O]

"Jammed up with mud...", you say?

England and Wales have the highest blood alcohol limits in Europe.

 

[riggaz]

As you know, cleaning and relubing is your only option so yes, try a dry lube and watch it.

Fortunately spray cleaners (carb/injector or brake) and careful shielding with scrap cloth will make easy work of cleaning.
Don't let unknown cleaner sprays drip onto paint.

Also, what breaks in hood / bonnet latches (in my world) are any springs.
Fords are known for the safety catch (what catches the bonnet when first you pull the opening lever) spring breaking. It's a whopper being an extension spring all of 8mm in dia. and 25mm long. I've always been fortunate finding jars of springs in my friends' stashes. They're easy to make.

"Jammed up with mud...", you say?

This one hasn't been serviced in 3 years so hasn't had any lube, still working ok but this is typical, it's a 2010 car.
Brake cleaner and the ilk don't make easy work of grease as a rule, they all need a fair amount of agitation to dislodge the grease/mud/grit mixture.

 

[riggaz]

England and Wales have the highest blood alcohol limits in Europe.

We can't let too much blood get into our alcohol systems, it sends us mad.

 

[supton]

This one hasn't been serviced in 3 years so hasn't had any lube, still working ok but this is typical, it's a 2010 car.
Brake cleaner and the ilk don't make easy work of grease as a rule, they all need a fair amount of agitation to dislodge the grease/mud/grit mixture.

Looks cleaner than mine. I rarely lube these parts.

 

[Wolf359]

If they get a regular squirt of something, but builds up some messy residue of dirt and grime, do they actually wear out? I’m not a mechanic but I have never heard of a hood latch wearing out.

Mine wear out all the time. I usually end up replacing them. Replaced them on my Mercedes about a year or two ago. That one actually has two latches, one side was really gummed up and didn't move freely at all, the other side was a bit bad, but with a little more lubricate and cleaning it actually worked fine afterwards, but I already replaced the latch so I kept it as a spare and tossed the other one out. The springs also get weak or break on some older models. I think I also replaced the latch on my previous Ford Taurus, the replacement didn't last as long as the original, the original one had a broken spring. I think you're supposed to lubricate them with lithium grease but that never seems to last too long.

 

[Dave9]

yeah, we get them all flopping about or jammed up with mud and road grime but the problem is the grease collecting it all. I'm talking 10-20-year-old cars here.
I'm looking at the WD40 specialist dry lube or similar products and the moment just so it doesn't collect as much ****e.

This is *usually* a non-issue, unless a mudder or sandy/beach, off-road vehicle. You are better off with the higher lube properties of a viscous grease, just not so viscous that it jams things up in very cold weather. Wear is a non-issue, rather it better seals, protects against corrosion which is the larger issue. That is unless you are opening the hood dozens of times a day. Otherwise it just doesn't get that much wear from having grime in the grease.

It's probably a non-problem for you boys in the US but here in old blighty, it's either raining or 8'C overcast with 85% humidity.

That makes it even more of a benefit for you to use a heavy grease instead of a dry or light oil lube. Corrosion will be your larger problem in *most* cases. Rattle can grease, or an oil can with a grease/gasoline mix (for pumpability and penetration, then the gas evaporates away) is what I'd use.

 

[supton]

Mine wear out all the time. I usually end up replacing them. Replaced them on my Mercedes about a year or two ago.

Well there you go--you just need something more reliable, something that doesn't need the hood used so often.

I kid, I kid! I couldn't pass that one up.

 

[Wolf359]

Well there you go--you just need something more reliable, something that doesn't need the hood used so often.

I kid, I kid! I couldn't pass that one up.

Oh yeah, use lots of windshield washer fluid here. I don't know how people don't clean their windshield. I let a friend of mine borrow the car once and I hadn't driven it in a week. She returned it and the windshield was still dirty. I give it a blast if it's slightly dirty and that's either every day or every few days.

And it rusts out whether you use it or not. Probably due to all the salt and sea air around here.

 

[supton]

That's weird, when I was doing 30k/year I'd go through a gallon of washer fluid. Only in spring was it a problem, the roads thaw out and the slush gets really sandy. Rest of the year, not a problem. I'm guessing, too far north to have problems with bug guts on the windshield?

Last couple of years I've had a warm garage, so I'm sure my problems are only going to get worse (cars keep warm enough now to rust through the winter).

 

[Wolf359]

That's weird, when I was doing 30k/year I'd go through a gallon of washer fluid. Only in spring was it a problem, the roads thaw out and the slush gets really sandy. Rest of the year, not a problem. I'm guessing, too far north to have problems with bug guts on the windshield?

Last couple of years I've had a warm garage, so I'm sure my problems are only going to get worse (cars keep warm enough now to rust through the winter).

Yeah no garage here so it gets dusty/dirty just sitting outside not to mention all the bird droppings here.

 

[PimTac]

I use this on my latches.

White Lithium Protective Grease Spray | WD-40

Spray on WD-40 white lithium grease to protect metal to metal applications. This protective grease sprays on as a liquid and sets dry as a thick coating to help you avoid rust and corrosion. Try white lithium grease spray for long-lasting lubrication of gears, tracks, latches, pulleys and more.

www.wd40.com

 

[riggaz]

I use this on my latches.

White Lithium Protective Grease Spray | WD-40

Spray on WD-40 white lithium grease to protect metal to metal applications. This protective grease sprays on as a liquid and sets dry as a thick coating to help you avoid rust and corrosion. Try white lithium grease spray for long-lasting lubrication of gears, tracks, latches, pulleys and more.

www.wd40.com

Yeah, lithium grease is the most common service grease here in England. I've settled on...

Wurth - High Performance Dry Chain Lube​

It's specifically designed to give ep performance without attracting grime and grit. The lads can use it on their bikes too!

 

[vavavroom]

Urea grease. Stays in place and is safe on plastic components.

 

[honeeagle]

I never open the hood until the engine stops , then the cable release usually breaks.
Then I go car shopping.

 

[riggaz]

Urea grease. Stays in place and is safe on plastic components.

Does it smell of piss?
It'll still get the grime stuck to it. For the sake of wear and optics, I'll go for the dry chain lube.

 

[riggaz]

That's weird, when I was doing 30k/year I'd go through a gallon of washer fluid. Only in spring was it a problem, the roads thaw out and the slush gets really sandy. Rest of the year, not a problem. I'm guessing, too far north to have problems with bug guts on the windshield?

Last couple of years I've had a warm garage, so I'm sure my problems are only going to get worse (cars keep warm enough now to rust through the winter).

Yeah, the British Isles is a full spectrum climate area with high humidity in winter (it gets you cold down to your bones with only 5'c to 10'c temps).

Most of our A and B roads don't have curbs so it's just a grass verge once you run out of tarmac so lorries pull mud onto the road when they get their apex wrong not to mention are the grit we chick on em.