Body Guys-Toyota Cancer...

Joined
Jul 11, 2012
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717
Location
Edson, Alberta
Question as I don't do bodywork, 1990 4Runner, surprisingly clean but has the usual rot behind those roack guards at the dogleg (pass side). can this be fixed right with sheet metal or source a rust free dogleg section and weld in. Needs to be done right and no patch panels are available, rest of the rockers are mint.
IMG_2601.jpg
 
Body technician here. You would need to open that up and see what the true extent is because it's usually worse than it looks. If you can find a shop to fix it they need to be meticulous about preventing further rust. Cutting and welding leaves the backside of the repair prone to fail again rather quickly.
You need good access behind the panel to mitigate any further rust after the repair or it will fail quickly......especially in that area.
The door looks a bit rotted too but that's an easy fix with a clean used part.
 
Ya need to open up to know the true extent. Door is fine- plastic decal there is peeling off. I cavity spray so after the repair I will hit that area, been avoiding oiling until after welding is done. So should I get a section cut out of a donor?
 
Needs to be done right--how right? I mean, you could go crazy and restore to factory--and that's a lot of time and effort on a 30 year old vehicle. That may have rust started in all sorts of other places.

Just how good is good enough?
 
A rust free section cut from a doner vehicle would be ideal but you’re going to need to know how much of the section you need. Rockets are easy to fabricate, the dog leg is a bit more complicated.
Cavity wax won’t stop existing rust it’s only good to prevent it where it’s has not rusted yet.
 
This is the only spot on the vehicle that needs repair. Not restoring the Toy but value of the truck is not a consideration at this time.
 
A rust free section cut from a doner vehicle would be ideal but you’re going to need to know how much of the section you need. Rockets are easy to fabricate, the dog leg is a bit more complicated.
Cavity wax won’t stop existing rust it’s only good to prevent it where it’s has not rusted yet.
I disagree on the cavity spray- it provides a barrier to moisture and oxygen and will halt further rusting reapplying as necessary.
 
These are good trucks and 1990 could well be a golden year (though they argue about IFS vs front axle.) Farm it out and fix it right. Best of luck finding a body shop that does rust work when there's so much collision gravy backlogged.
 
These are good trucks and 1990 could well be a golden year (though they argue about IFS vs front axle.) Farm it out and fix it right. Best of luck finding a body shop that does rust work when there's so much collision gravy backlogged.
I'd hate to be finding parts for the gen 1 stuff (84-89). Hard to beat these for size and off road use. This IFS does not have the ADD front diff- so it's stronger than the usual diff in these truck but not as tuff as the solid axle. Better ride tho. It's a keeper for those of us that aren't into bling....just solid performance. Turbo'd 22RE with aftermarket ecu, doubled the hp so it should get out of it's own way;) BTW these are the vehicles Toyota made its name on...
 
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