I have owned a couple of boats and what I found out is that you have to over maintain them. Do all the maintenance keep fresh batteries in them oil fresh, change the cooling parts on or before schedual. Any minor failure will ruin a day on the water and for most people a day on the water is valuable time. A passive boat owner is one that always has problems on the launch ramp or on the water.
Boating day from [censored]. A few questions.
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The gas tank on that type of boat is in the back. All of the weight of the gas is on the trailer tires. Therefore a full tank of gas would be a bad idea for towing in hot weather.
You might adjust the front of the trailer, either the front riser and crank that the front of the boat rest against, or if the trailer has it a telescoping front bar, so that more of the weight of the boat is on the tow vehicle.
As you put more weight on the back of the boat (such as a full tank) you shift the center of gravity of the total towards the back of the trailer. This actually makes the amount of trailer tong weight carried by the tow vehicle decrease and makes some of the weight (the amount of decrease) be carries by the trailer tires. Some say 12 to 15 percent of the total trailer weight should be on the tong. Some say go much higher for better traction.
For every pound of fuel you add to the back of the boat you might be adding something near 2 pounds to the total load carried by the trailer tires.
You probably want to keep as much weight out of the boat as possible when towing. No skies, life jackets, ex. and of course a low tank of gas until you are near the water.
It might be that a single axle trailer is just too light for your application. Maybe you should consider biting the bullet and go to two axle. Instead of adding an axle, you might be better off selling the trailer and getting a duel (used or new).
If you do get a trailer that has total tire weight capacity to spare, you could carry a full tank and gear in the boat with no worry.
If you get a trailer with brakes there are some systems that have a way to disable the brake for backing up, and some of them you have to carry a large pair of vise-grip pliers and put them on a specific section of the brake to disable it so you can back up. Trailers with brakes are nice because the tow vehicle will have normal braking distance in a panic stop. When you tow a significant weight without trailer brakes your emergency stopping distance can increase as much as double that of normal.
The real pain about getting a trailer with brakes is that most states require you to have the trailer inspected every year.
You might adjust the front of the trailer, either the front riser and crank that the front of the boat rest against, or if the trailer has it a telescoping front bar, so that more of the weight of the boat is on the tow vehicle.
As you put more weight on the back of the boat (such as a full tank) you shift the center of gravity of the total towards the back of the trailer. This actually makes the amount of trailer tong weight carried by the tow vehicle decrease and makes some of the weight (the amount of decrease) be carries by the trailer tires. Some say 12 to 15 percent of the total trailer weight should be on the tong. Some say go much higher for better traction.
For every pound of fuel you add to the back of the boat you might be adding something near 2 pounds to the total load carried by the trailer tires.
You probably want to keep as much weight out of the boat as possible when towing. No skies, life jackets, ex. and of course a low tank of gas until you are near the water.
It might be that a single axle trailer is just too light for your application. Maybe you should consider biting the bullet and go to two axle. Instead of adding an axle, you might be better off selling the trailer and getting a duel (used or new).
If you do get a trailer that has total tire weight capacity to spare, you could carry a full tank and gear in the boat with no worry.
If you get a trailer with brakes there are some systems that have a way to disable the brake for backing up, and some of them you have to carry a large pair of vise-grip pliers and put them on a specific section of the brake to disable it so you can back up. Trailers with brakes are nice because the tow vehicle will have normal braking distance in a panic stop. When you tow a significant weight without trailer brakes your emergency stopping distance can increase as much as double that of normal.
The real pain about getting a trailer with brakes is that most states require you to have the trailer inspected every year.
Originally Posted By: Steve S
I have owned a couple of boats and what I found out is that you have to over maintain them. Do all the maintenance keep fresh batteries in them oil fresh, change the cooling parts on or before schedual. Any minor failure will ruin a day on the water and for most people a day on the water is valuable time. A passive boat owner is one that always has problems on the launch ramp or on the water.
+1 on over maintaining.
I would put fresh oil in the engine and trany at the end of every year, and dump that oil and put fresh oil in again at the begining of the season. The engine and trany are run hard, and should not be stored with used fluids, or run with fluid that has moisture from storage.
BTW the same goes for mobile homes. It is amazing how many mobile homes blow engines or tranys because the owner would leave used fluids in during winter storage, or run fluids with moisture the next season.
I have owned a couple of boats and what I found out is that you have to over maintain them. Do all the maintenance keep fresh batteries in them oil fresh, change the cooling parts on or before schedual. Any minor failure will ruin a day on the water and for most people a day on the water is valuable time. A passive boat owner is one that always has problems on the launch ramp or on the water.
+1 on over maintaining.
I would put fresh oil in the engine and trany at the end of every year, and dump that oil and put fresh oil in again at the begining of the season. The engine and trany are run hard, and should not be stored with used fluids, or run with fluid that has moisture from storage.
BTW the same goes for mobile homes. It is amazing how many mobile homes blow engines or tranys because the owner would leave used fluids in during winter storage, or run fluids with moisture the next season.
Originally Posted By: Steve S
I have owned a couple of boats and what I found out is that you have to over maintain them. Do all the maintenance keep fresh batteries in them oil fresh, change the cooling parts on or before schedual. Any minor failure will ruin a day on the water and for most people a day on the water is valuable time. A passive boat owner is one that always has problems on the launch ramp or on the water.
Agree 100%. I'm anal about maintenance. The boat was in great shape when I winterized last fall. This is why I was disappointed when suddenly 4 gauges stopped working.
Update on gauges. I got new non-faria oil pressue and trim gauges so far. I replaced oil pressure gauge so far and it turned out that to be more complicated as the posts on new gauges are slightly shorter and wider spaced making them not compatible with the existing harness. I had to improvise a lot, but it works great now. I learned new thing, different boat gauges have different mounting posts (even though they look similar on pictures).
Couple more gauges to go. It difficult to find them as I'm trying to keep the existing white color gauge scheme.
I have owned a couple of boats and what I found out is that you have to over maintain them. Do all the maintenance keep fresh batteries in them oil fresh, change the cooling parts on or before schedual. Any minor failure will ruin a day on the water and for most people a day on the water is valuable time. A passive boat owner is one that always has problems on the launch ramp or on the water.
Agree 100%. I'm anal about maintenance. The boat was in great shape when I winterized last fall. This is why I was disappointed when suddenly 4 gauges stopped working.
Update on gauges. I got new non-faria oil pressue and trim gauges so far. I replaced oil pressure gauge so far and it turned out that to be more complicated as the posts on new gauges are slightly shorter and wider spaced making them not compatible with the existing harness. I had to improvise a lot, but it works great now. I learned new thing, different boat gauges have different mounting posts (even though they look similar on pictures).
Couple more gauges to go. It difficult to find them as I'm trying to keep the existing white color gauge scheme.
You are correct, the tires should be put to the maximum pressure on the sidewall in your application. The tire manufacturer greatly reduces the recommended loads at lower pressures, typically:
1360 lbs at 50 psi
1100 lbs at 36 psi
850 lbs at 28 lbs
etc. Heat is your enemy, the tire can easily take the pressure if the temperature remains within reason.
The tire size code that you listed indicates that it is a bias ply tire also, your replacement will likely be a radial and will also run cooler under extreme conditions.
Bearing Buddies: There is an excellent thread on bearing buddies in this forum, read it carefully. I have run one of our "constant use" boats, launching 4 days a week for 26 years without repacking the bearings using bearing buddies. If you install them, pump them up, drive to the river and launch you have already ruined your chances for them to protect your bearings.
If installing or using bearing buddies, read this thread!!
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/best-boat-trailer-wheel-bearing-grease-for-salt-ap.93657/
1360 lbs at 50 psi
1100 lbs at 36 psi
850 lbs at 28 lbs
etc. Heat is your enemy, the tire can easily take the pressure if the temperature remains within reason.
The tire size code that you listed indicates that it is a bias ply tire also, your replacement will likely be a radial and will also run cooler under extreme conditions.
Bearing Buddies: There is an excellent thread on bearing buddies in this forum, read it carefully. I have run one of our "constant use" boats, launching 4 days a week for 26 years without repacking the bearings using bearing buddies. If you install them, pump them up, drive to the river and launch you have already ruined your chances for them to protect your bearings.
If installing or using bearing buddies, read this thread!!
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/best-boat-trailer-wheel-bearing-grease-for-salt-ap.93657/
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I've got a similar set up. I've had some problems with the Faria Tach....you know what worked, don't laugh, but take your knuckles and tap on the tach glass....or for any of the guages. It just worked. The engine....depends on how you store it. Storage is the key. Is it totally covered, in a carport or garage? Or outside with a boat cover or no cover whatsoever. If the later is true, you got moisture in your fuel and usually, that 3.0 for fresh water won't have a oil water seperator connect to the fuel inlet that goes to the fuel pump. There are connections for it, but a lot of times, there won't be one on it unless called for legally. Also, check your battery connections, they could be corroded and that could be part of your problems with the guages. Check the connections going to the drive tilt. Did you put Stabile in the gas before you parked it last year? Could also be a bad fuel pump, pretty common actually. Check all electrical connections on the engine. They can get corroded and not send a signal to your guages.
Thanks Schmoe.
Stabil was in, gas was good. I used up the old gas in my car with no problems whatsoever. Boat is stored under carport and covered. Time permitting, I will look into the carb fouling issue. As for the gauges, the electric connections are great. All the troubleshooting pointed to gauges. I replaced some already and the new ones work fine.
Stabil was in, gas was good. I used up the old gas in my car with no problems whatsoever. Boat is stored under carport and covered. Time permitting, I will look into the carb fouling issue. As for the gauges, the electric connections are great. All the troubleshooting pointed to gauges. I replaced some already and the new ones work fine.
Update:
I put new teleflex gauges and they work and look great. I had problems starting the engine with fresh gasoline, I checked the spark plugs and one had cracked outside ceramic insulator. Weird, as I used torque wrench when installing. New plug and the engine started with no problems. I guess carb is fine then. I put some chemtool B12 carb cleaner (in addition to stabil) in gas to be safe.
I put new teleflex gauges and they work and look great. I had problems starting the engine with fresh gasoline, I checked the spark plugs and one had cracked outside ceramic insulator. Weird, as I used torque wrench when installing. New plug and the engine started with no problems. I guess carb is fine then. I put some chemtool B12 carb cleaner (in addition to stabil) in gas to be safe.
Carb issues are common in the 3.0. It's best to get a rebuild kit this off season and rebuild it. If it's burning rich, take the air cover off and adjust the electronic choke setting on the carb manually. All you need is a flat tip screw driver and then turn the dial to the right. After you crank it and it's running, look and see if you got a lot of smoke coming off of the water, if so, carb. is set too rich. That also helps to from dieseling after shut down. The 3.0 is Merc's bread and butter, but they are not perfect. Namely carb issues. I'm not crazy about Merc. anymore....they packed up and left Stillwater Oklahoma to go to Wisconsin.
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