BMW multiply warning lights came on

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wsteveg

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Apr 13, 2016
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NC
2009 bmw 328i
I've been driving my deployed sons car a few miles every 10 days while he is away. All has been fine.

As I pulled out today the ABS light came on. Then the brake warning a few minutes later. A few minutes the service engine light came on. Then the tire warning.

Any thoughts.

Also, does it need a radio code if I pull a battery cable?


Thanks
 
About 5 years ago the Traction Control light came on on my 2000 BMW 528i (and Traction Control stopped working), then the ABS and Brake warning lights began to come on once I had driven for some distance (the brakes worked fine, I never tried to provoke the ABS), then the speedometer began to stop working once it had gone for a few miles.

When I first started the car the traction control light would be the only light showing, and the speedometer would work initially but then the lights would start to come on and the speedometer would cut out again.

This was all due to a defective traction control/ABS module. I had it rebuilt by ModuleMaster and the problems were immediately corrected and it has been fine ever since. I'd suggest you consult with them.
 
wsteveg said:
2009 bmw 328i
I've been driving my deployed sons car a few miles every 10 days while he is away. All has been fine.

As I pulled out today the ABS light came on. Then the brake warning a few minutes later. A few minutes the service engine light came on. Then the tire warning.

Any thoughts.

Also, does it need a radio code if I pull a battery cable?


Thanks
Click to expand...

Symptoms of a voltage drop out somewhere either + or ground, on these more likely the B+ cable from battery to fuse box, check for the recall on this, it may or may not have been done but there was one AFAIK. Check the connections are clean and tight at the B and under hood fuse box.
You will need to register the battery with the car if replacing it and AFAIK put the code in for the radio if you disconnect it, this can usually be found in the owners manual, the dealer rep usually writes it in there or there may be a card.

The work around for putting a code in for the radio and saving the system settings is to use a memory saver connected to 12v through the OBD2 port.

Edit: No reprogramming or registering needed if you just disconnect the battery and reconnect the same on. The radio still needs the code though.
 
Before you disconnect the battery, I would turn the radio off, fan speed to zero, close sun roof, and any windows.

If the battery is on the engine bay, open the hood and wait 15 minutes for the modules to go to sleep. Keep the key fob at home or put it inside an aluminum bag.

If the battery is on the trunk, open the trunk and close the latch manually. proceed w/ 15 minutes and follow the above procedure.
 
Fully charge the battery with a good charger.

My MB would be very, very unhappy with your driving pattern, it’s not enough to maintain a good charge, and as the voltage dropped, would give you all sorts of warnings.

Don’t disconnect the battery on a modern German car, you’ll cause a ton of problems, and have to reset a bunch of systems. Disconnecting the battery doesn’t clear any codes, they’re all stored, but you will cause more problems.

Going forward, put it on a good charger every couple weeks, or drive it fifty miles, or get a maintainer.
 
Similar situation with Daughter's XC-90. It started, but stopped dead, because the system voltage was too low to work drive by wire. wouldn't charge initially when jumped. Dash lit up like Xmas. Charge battery with a minder is easiest solution. 😃
 
wsteveg said:
2009 bmw 328i
I've been driving my deployed sons car a few miles every 10 days while he is away. All has been fine.

As I pulled out today the ABS light came on. Then the brake warning a few minutes later. A few minutes the service engine light came on. Then the tire warning.

Any thoughts.

Also, does it need a radio code if I pull a battery cable?


Thanks
Click to expand...

Make sure to check for a recall on the B+ to fuse box, it is a known issue and there was a recall on some 3er models depending on VIN.
 
Thanks to all. My friend and I scanned it and the code showed a RR wheel sensor. We could not clear it to see if it just went away and it got over my head and I took it to a bmw shop.
 
Bunch of warning lights on BMW is sign of voltage drop as Trav indicated.
Taking into consideration your driving pattern, it could be just battery. When battery is weak BMW's are going to throw bunch of warning lights. If you can start car, drive it for some time. Do NOT drive BMW several miles every 10 days. Rather get good battery charger (C-TEK preferably) or battery tender from Costco (I have that one, works fine). Hook it up for 24hrs. Then drive it for 50-60 miles. If you can drive that car 50-60 miles every 10 days, than you do not have to hook up battery charger. But, if you cannot, rather hook up charger every 5-10 days for 24hrs, than drive it for few miles. Drive it only when you can do some extensive mileage to bring all fluids to operating temperature.
If you disconnect batter, on BMW when you connect battery again, warning signs will recycle on dashboard, and steering wheel angle sensor warning light will stay on. Just drive it few blocks and it will turn itself off.
 
When I drive it, although only 10 miles or so, 5 out and 5 back, it runs 30 or 40 minutes, as I make several stops without shutting down.
 
Charge the battery up, and do a load test on the alternator. I often see them failing by producing too much voltage, one was at 17 volts running.
 
Sounds much like the very common "Trifecta" issue (there's also a "Bifecta" for older models like my E39). Look on Bimmerforums or Bimmerfest using that term, lots of info and troubleshooting/symptom discussion. I had it 4 or 5 years ago, ended up sending my ABS module out for repair. About a week later and around $100 and the problem went away (so far so good). Note: that this is not necessarily the problem you are posting about, but it is a very common BMW-specific issue.
 
Audios said:
Charge the battery up, and do a load test on the alternator. I often see them failing by producing too much voltage, one was at 17 volts running.
Click to expand...
Thanks

We had a good scanner and it showed 14v
 
wsteveg said:
When I drive it, although only 10 miles or so, 5 out and 5 back, it runs 30 or 40 minutes, as I make several stops without shutting down.
Click to expand...
That is better, still I would not call that optimal solution what you trying to achieve.
Do you remember what is code that you read? Number? You really need BMW specific or one of those professional code readers in order to get full picture what is happening. Unless you read it with something like ISTA or INPA, Carly, PROTOOL, or professional Autel etc. you are chasing ghost here.
 
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