BMW M3 - Alternative to OE 0W-30 LL FE ?

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Originally Posted By: lubricatosaurus
Originally Posted By: il_signore97
You'll always be in good shape as long as you stick with a BMW certified / approved lubricant, regardless of the viscosity.

Some of us want to optimize the best we can. "Regardless of the viscosity" you say? No, winter cold starts result in full oil pressure sooner using thinner oils.

Sure your engine will survive using a thicker LL-01 0w-40 in the winter, no doubt.

Spending that much money on a car might mean some will want to improve cold start performance using a thinner LL-01 FE like the factory fill in the M3 here.



Firstly, you took the post that I made above and quoted it out of context. The OP knows what I meant by "regardless of viscosity"... And for your benefit, by that I meant "regardless of the viscosity choices in question for purposes of this thread", which were 0W30 or 0W40. No other choices were mentioned, so I didn't feel the need to be more specific.

Secondly, you need to understand the SAE viscosity grading system, and the function of a positive displacement pump, of which all modern vehicle oil pumps are. If you have a particular oil that is guaranteed to FLOW at the temperatures in question (regardless of viscosity), the positive displacement oil pump will push the exact same amount of oil per revolution no matter what. Now, at -40 C, there is no doubt that the bypass will be opened with any oil, but the point is that it doesn't matter. The reason that the bypass exists is because no more flow through the engine is possible, as every bearing is full of oil and in full hydrodynamic lubrication. There is NO optimizing necessary or possible, unless you're optimizing for fuel economy (nothing to do with protection because you can't improve upon the full hydrodynamic lubrication that already exists). A 0W oil that exceeds the SAE requirements for CCS and MRV will crank, pump, and flow when the engine starts, and oil pressure will be near instantaneous.

As overkill already pointed out, the graph you posted from Mobil is meant to inform the public of the problems with using the incorrect viscosity grade of oil for the expected temperature ranges. If you use a 10W or 5W oil below their SAE rated CCS / MRV temperatures, then you are asking for trouble. In that case, then yes, a more appropriate oil (read 0W) will give you faster oil pressure.

I'm all for optimization where results produce something fruitful, but you're chasing something here that is non existent.
 
I genuinely appreciate all of the contributions people have made to this thread and really don't want to start a war over the hair splitting I am doing between three or four similar and exceptionally good oils.

At this point my plan is to use 0W-30 for the balance of the winter and the engine break-in period and then switch to the BMW supplied 0W-40 (Shell?) or maybe M1 or Castrol 0W-40.

I went shopping today expecting to buy Castrol Edge Ti but this is the only synthetic 0W-30 Castrol I could find. It is the old (discontinued?) GC? The label clearly says Made in Germany but since it has the LL-01 approval I bough it.

IMG_0864-X2.jpg


IMG_0865-2-X2.jpg
 
Yup, that's the old GC. It's the same as the Castrol 0w-40 with a touch more polymer to bump the viscosity up to the 40 range. It is an excellent oil and will serve you well.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Yup, that's the old GC. It's the same as the Castrol 0w-40 with a touch more polymer to bump the viscosity up to the 40 range. It is an excellent oil and will serve you well.


Thanks for the confirmation. I am certain my M3's engine will be happy with this for the next ~1000kms of break-in winter driving.

Please disregard the top pic in my last post - it shows a 0W-40 bottle that I took a photo of but I bought the 0W-30 pictured below.
 
Originally Posted By: lubricatosaurus
Mobil tribologists illustrate why having "no issues" is not all we know:
Ez7Dde5.jpg


Bottom line, go with the trend line "Better" for relevance to minimizing wear, and thinner oils perform better at -20 C. Basic principle: Thick oil takes longer to lubricate at start up.


LOL, I'm pretty sure that Mobil's "tribologists don't write advertising puff pieces.

The picture is about 0W, 5W, and 10W, at the limits of pumpability.

Two 0Ws aren't relevant at all to the pic...

il signore is correct...pumpable oil fills the galleries at exactly the same time.
 
Originally Posted By: ringmaster
I genuinely appreciate all of the contributions people have made to this thread and really don't want to start a war over the hair splitting I am doing between three or four similar and exceptionally good oils.

At this point my plan is to use 0W-30 for the balance of the winter and the engine break-in period and then switch to the BMW supplied 0W-40 (Shell?) or maybe M1 or Castrol 0W-40.

I went shopping today expecting to buy Castrol Edge Ti but this is the only synthetic 0W-30 Castrol I could find. It is the old (discontinued?) GC? The label clearly says Made in Germany but since it has the LL-01 approval I bough it.



All oils you listed above are good choices. The 0W30 GC is not discontinued, it is just now made in Belgium (and the 0W40 has moved to Germany). We Canadians just haven't got the new Belgium stock of 0W30 yet lol...

Enjoy the car
smile.gif
 
And 0W30 GC will serve you really good.
If I had that car, I would go with this 0W30 you bought instead of LL-01 FE.
You can use Castrol 0W30 in the winter regardless whether you broke i engine. In summer move to 0W40. It is same formula just bit different viscosity.
 
I'd use an OE oil within the warranty period. If all they could get me was the 0w-40, that's what I'd go with.

After warranty, it'd probably be Mobil 1 0w-40 or some other oil with explicit LL-01 approval. Wouldn't really care about viscosity unless I took it to the track AND saw alarmingly high temps.
 
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
I'd use an OE oil within the warranty period. If all they could get me was the 0w-40, that's what I'd go with.

After warranty, it'd probably be Mobil 1 0w-40 or some other oil with explicit LL-01 approval. Wouldn't really care about viscosity unless I took it to the track AND saw alarmingly high temps.

No need for OE oil if he can get approved oil in store.
I use in my BMW Mobil1 5W30 ESP which is approved oil by BMW and dealership said: as far as we are concern just keep your receipts in case you bring car for warranty work.
So they cannot do anything if he is using approved oil.
 
Of course there's no need. It's just one more feather in your cap if you have to make a warranty claim, if only a minor one.
 
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Of course there's no need. It's just one more feather in your cap if you have to make a warranty claim, if only a minor one.

I do not see any issue when it comes to warranty using any approved oil.
 
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Of course there's no need. It's just one more feather in your cap if you have to make a warranty claim, if only a minor one.

I do not see any issue when it comes to warranty using any approved oil.


No there isn't an there can't be.
 
overkill, So having "no issues" meant success because the car started and didn't break? Really? Try answering that. You can't do it.

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Are you that dense? I had no issues because I .......


You're a computer network tech right? I'm a mechanical engineer, so I know the difference, you're a poser. Go back to twisted-pair wires so your panties don't get in a twist......
crackmeup2.gif


Facts: Positive displacement oil pumps & journal bearings experience more side leakage with more viscous oil, reacting to the back pressure from upper galleries feeding other areas in the engine. That is what the Mobil engineers were referring to.
The trend line means an LL-01 FE oil will perform better on even a -20C cold start than an LL-01 oil.
 
Originally Posted By: chrisri
Pretty much all you wrote here is wrong, no offence.

Can you provide any evidence to back up your claim? Making statements with absolutely nothing to back it up is not the way this is done, no offense

I've provided evidence from Exxon-Mobil. I've seen oil take longer to reach parts of an engine when its thicker myself, but I'll leave it to Mobil to explain it to you.

Originally Posted By: Shannow
il signore is correct...pumpable oil fills the galleries at exactly the same time.


You disagree with me and the Mobil engineers, OK fine. Evidence from you would be nice. Do you have any? ...................... Oil doesn't get everywhere as soon with thicker oil, so we minimize the time to reach all surfaces by running the thinnest oil at a given cold temperature we can.
 
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Originally Posted By: lubricatosaurus
Bottom line, go with the trend line "Better" for relevance to minimizing wear, and thinner oils perform better at -20 C. Basic principle: Thick oil takes longer to lubricate at start up.

That graph didn't show that, though. The graph shows that a 0w-XX oil is better suited at borderline temperatures, which has never been a surprise. You can't extrapolate that, any further than you can extrapolate the old Esso video about pumpability of 0w-30 in horrific temperatures. You either have a 0w-XX, or you do not. Of course, given that 0w-XX defines a maximum MRV and CCS at certain temperatures, you will certainly have one 0w-XX that could perform at -50 C or -55 C, whereas another one would not, but you can't extrapolate arbitrarily up to -20 C, 0C, or operating temperatures. And we darn well know that's the case, since an ILSAC 0w-30 will have better cold cranking numbers than a 5w-20, but be thicker at operating temperatures, and the VI could be rather different, too.

Last night, my G37 spent many, many hours outside in -25 C. It turned over just fine and started without any strange noises or fuss, because I have a good battery and a 5w-XX oil is perfectly suited for -2C C.

ringmaster: You could use any of the approved lubricants year round, without having to play switching games due to seasons. For a DIYer in Canada, it's hard to beet Castrol A3/B4 0w-40 or M1 0w-40, given their sizes, or for that matter, a Pennzoil Euro in an EcoBox, if one were so inclined to stock such a thing in one's garage.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Of course there's no need. It's just one more feather in your cap if you have to make a warranty claim, if only a minor one.

I do not see any issue when it comes to warranty using any approved oil.


No there isn't an there can't be.

Agreed. Nor is there any issue when it comes to your engine, which is arguably even more important.

I'm not talking about what is or isn't technically acceptable. I'm saying it might grease the wheels on your claim. If there's ANY ambiguity in your case for whatever reason -- a lost receipt, bad data in the dealership's system, etc. -- there's a chance you might get some pushback from service personnel. Having used nothing but OE oils could give you a psychological edge in your interactions.
 
Originally Posted By: lubricatosaurus
overkill, So having "no issues" meant success because the car started and didn't break? Really? Try answering that. You can't do it.


No, I already explained it. You are apparently simply far too dense to understand it.

Originally Posted By: lubricatosaurus
You're a computer network tech right? I'm a mechanical engineer, so I know the difference, you're a poser. Go back to twisted-pair wires so your panties don't get in a twist......
crackmeup2.gif



No, I'm not a network tech. Also, even if you actually are an ME (which is highly suspect based on some of the garbage you post) that doesn't make you a Tribologist or any sort of expert on lubrication. There are plenty of ME's on this board, thumping your chest like it makes you immune to criticism or fault is what is truly worthy of the
crackmeup2.gif


The poser here is you, who passes off opinion ripe with agenda as "facts" and tops it off with a healthy dose of condescension.

I'm amazed with your attitude that you haven't been pushed in front of a bus if your online identity is anything like your real one.

Originally Posted By: lubricatosaurus
Facts: Positive displacement oil pumps & journal bearings experience more side leakage with more viscous oil, reacting to the back pressure from upper galleries feeding other areas in the engine. That is what the Mobil engineers were referring to.
The trend line means an LL-01 FE oil will perform better on even a -20C cold start than an LL-01 oil.


I believe it was Shannow who demonstrated that a positive displacement pump experiences more internal leakage with thinner oil. Also, as the rest of us have already all agreed on, the slide from Mobil shows the performance of 0w-40 relative to two oils used outside their intended temperature range. There was no trend line, just a few bars in a graph showing the difference in Winter rating performance between a 0w-40, 5w-40 and 10w-40 at -32C showing the 5w-40 doing better than the 10w-40, and both being bested by the 0w-40, showing the relevance of the Winter designation and what happens at the limits of the designation for a particular grade.
 
Originally Posted By: lubricatosaurus
You're a computer network tech right? I'm a mechanical engineer, so I know the difference, you're a poser. Go back to twisted-pair wires so your panties don't get in a twist......
crackmeup2.gif



Please. This board is littered with your posts that have been demonstrated to be either false or just filled with opinions.

I think people are starting to catch on and aren't listening anymore, which is apparently frustrating you to the point of making personal attacks on people. When posters stop (or never start) making technical arguments and resort to the personal, that's a good sign there was nothing behind the words to begin with.

Oh, and I also have a BSME. Can you tell me how that helps on BITOG? I've found it helps very little, my puny minor in Chemistry is the only thing I've found useful here. And I have to be careful with that because a minor is a pretty minor thing to rely on.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Originally Posted By: lubricatosaurus
You're a computer network tech right? I'm a mechanical engineer, so I know the difference, you're a poser. Go back to twisted-pair wires so your panties don't get in a twist......
crackmeup2.gif



Please. This board is littered with your posts that have been demonstrated to be either false or just filled with opinions.

I think people are starting to catch on and aren't listening anymore, which is apparently frustrating you to the point of making personal attacks on people. When posters stop (or never start) making technical arguments and resort to the personal, that's a good sign there was nothing behind the words to begin with.

Oh, and I also have a BSME. Can you tell me how that helps on BITOG? I've found it helps very little, my puny minor in Chemistry is the only thing I've found useful here. And I have to be careful with that because a minor is a pretty minor thing to rely on.


Thank you
smile.gif


Part of the beauty of this board is that there are really only a small handful of people that are experts on lubrication (tribology) and one, as far as I know, on bearing systems. The rest of us are just enthusiasts with widely varying backgrounds from different walks of life who want to discuss the subject and debate it in a civil manner.

I'm not sure why somebody who has no real interest in discussion hangs out on a discussion forum
21.gif
It seems like a monumental waste of time.

I am also going to be doing my ME degree, probably through Queens (there was a thread about it a while back). I've found that a lot of my credits from when I took Computer Science are transferable to that program, and my sister teaches Engineering math (she's a PhD in theoretical math) so I'm going to be hitting her up for a refresher this summer prior to starting into it. It is going to be a bit of a juggle with work and three kids, but it is doable. One of my co-workers just did his Masters in Psych and has been a real help in figuring out how one would approach it with our type of workload.
 
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